Looking for another great easy hike in the Dolomites?
Check out the fascinating Trail of the Witches in the Alpe di Siusi above Castelrotto.
LOCATION
Castelrotto (also called Kastelruth), where this hike begins, is a small village located below the Alpe di Siusi in Italy’s Dolomite Mountains. It’s a 50-minute bus ride from the town of Bolzano, the hub city for the region.
LENGTH
3 miles out-and-back
DIFFICULTY
Easy/Moderate — Much of this hike is paved or follows a wide gravel path, but the trail narrows and is a bit rough as you approach St. Valentin Church. The elevation gain is fairly gentle, with a few short but somewhat steep segments near the church.
I HIKED IT
July, 2023, about one hour and 15 minutes
CURRENT INFO
If you’re planning a trip to Italy that includes this region of the Dolomites, I recommend Rick Steves’ Italy guidebook. The section on Castelrotto includes a good description of this hike.
GOOD TO KNOW
- This hike is recommended if you are staying in the town of Castelrotto. Since the church is located above the village of Seis (also called Siusi), it’s also a good option if you’re staying there. From Seis, you can take the bus to Castelrotto, then hike one way to St. Valentin Church and back to Seis.
- Public toilets are not available along the trail.
- Much of the route follows wide paved or gravel paths. The last part of the trail follows a narrow, somewhat steep path through a meadow and a working farmyard before you reach St. Valentin Church.
- This hike primarily follows trail #7. You’ll see this number posted on many of the hiking signs along the trail. Signs may also point toward “St. Valentin” or “Seis/Siusi”.
- There are several benches located along the trail, ideal for a snack break or simply enjoying the views.
- Always follow Leave No Trace principles.
HIGHLIGHTS
The hike from Castelrotto to St. Valentin Church is a wonderful way to experience the grandeur of the Dolomites from below the Alpe di Siusi. As you leave Castelrotto behind, the mysterious Schlern Mountain grows ever nearer. When the church of St. Valentin finally comes into view, it’s a magic moment. I recommend planning an early morning or evening hike, when the light on the mountains is at its best. Since there’s no need to take a mountain gondola or chairlift, it’s a perfect option for those times when the lifts aren’t running.
THE KIDS’ TAKE
While kids may not be as enthralled by the idea of a peaceful evening walk to a historic church, there’s still plenty to enjoy along the trail. Keep an eye out for small shrines along the route to add a little interest. Peek in a barn to see if you can spot any cows. Many kids will appreciate the fact that this is a relatively short and easy hike, and they probably won’t say no to an ice cream cone once you’re back in Castelrotto, either.
WHILE YOU’RE HERE
If you’re going to do this as an after-dinner hike, you first need to have some dinner. I enjoyed a pizza at an old favorite in Castelrotto, Zur Alten Schmiede. Another good option is Liftstüberl, which you’ll conveniently pass by shortly after beginning the hike.
No trip to this area would be complete without a visit to the enchanting Alpe di Siusi, the high Alpine meadows above Castelrotto and Seis. A cable car runs from the town of Seis up the the meadows from 8am to 7pm daily in summer, where there are countless more hikes to explore. For a wonderful introduction to the Alpe di Siusi, I recommend the Trail of the Witches.
My Experience
The Dolomites are home to a vast network of hiking trails, enough to keep you hiking for weeks, if not years. But sometimes, you just need something short and sweet. What better way to end the day than with a sunset hike from the cozy village of Castelrotto to the church of St. Valentin?
I headed out after dinner, and I will spare you the details, but let’s just say that I misread the directions in my Rick Steves’ guidebook and completely bypassed the turnoff for the hike. Oops! We all make mistakes.
To help guide you on your way, the intersection shown above is the correct location from which to start the hike. Follow the sign that points up the hill toward Liftstüberl. In this photo, I’m facing the bell tower, with Liftstüberl located up the hill behind me. I snapped this shot of the main intersection, then turned to walk uphill with the bell tower behind me. By the way, if you’re looking for dinner before your hike, Liftstüberl is a good option.
Having already had dinner, I continued steadily up the road, admiring the flowers and picture-perfect Tyrolean farmhouses. While some are in fact working farms, these days many are guesthouses luring German and Italin tourists to the Dolomites for days of hiking, biking, and relaxing in the (sometimes) sunny Südtirol.
I soon came to a signpost, exactly as mentioned in my Rick Steves’ guidebook. As indicated, I veered onto the trail to my right to continue the hike on trail #7. As I walked, I took in the heady scent of recently mown hay. And was that the faintest whiff of manure? Make that more than a whiff, the smell of manure quickly overwhelmed any hint of hay. Sure enough, I passed a substantial pile of cow dung near the trail. Well, what can you expect when hiking through farm country?
Thankfully, the stench of the manure dissipated fairly quickly as I briefly picked up the pace. Up ahead, another signpost again directed me to the right. This time, I could hardly make out the path, which was merely a narrow track through a cow pasture. But have no fear — as the Rick Steves’ guidebook affirms, this is indeed the correct trail.
Once through the pasture, another sign indicated I should continue the hike by crossing the road and passing through an active farmyard. Coming from the barn, I heard the low moos of cows as they settled in for the night. The trail then led straight between the farmhouse and a much older barn. On either side of the trail, an electric fence line warned me not to stray from the narrow path. Ahead, the massive Schlern Mountain dominated the skyline.
As I neared St. Valentin, a hazy glow slowly crept over the surrounding hills, lending a golden warmth to the ancient stone walls of the church. I stood for a few moments on the front steps, entranced.
Although the church was locked, a walk around the exterior provided some surprises, including these beautiful frescos. In the one pictured below, the holy family receives a visit from the magi.
I left St. Valentin wishing I had more time to wander. While I knew it would soon be time to turn back, I strolled down the trail leading through the meadow below the church. I could at least go a little further, and maybe try an alternate route back to Castelrotto. As I turned for a last look at St. Valentin, the sun hovered just above the roof, sending brilliant beams of light across the field.
Soon, the trail across the meadow led to another farm. I turned up the gravel road and walked past the barn, where I reconnected with a paved road. Turning left, I followed the road in the direction of Castelrotto.
The going was easy now as I sauntered along the downhill path. I passed another signpost that indicated I was now on trail #6. Even without the numbers, it’s pretty easy to find the way back to Castelrotto, which is also clearly noted on the sign.
Sure enough, it wasn’t long before trail #6 joined up with trail #7. The sun kissed the top of the mountains as it bathed the meadows in its golden light. I caught another whiff of manure as I drew closer to town, but all I could do was smile.
As I headed down the road into town, the sun finally disappeared from view, leaving the sky a pale eggshell blue, and my heart filled with wonder. For a simple evening hike, I couldn’t have asked for anything more.
