Hiking the Trail of the Witches in the Alpe di Siusi

Looking for more lovely easy hikes in the Dolomites?
Try an evening walk from Castelrotto to St. Valentin Church.

CURRENT INFO

You can find a map and reviews for the Trail of the Witches (aka the Bullaccia Loop) on the AllTrails website. If you’re planning a trip to the Alpe di Siusi in Italy’s Dolomite Mountains, I recommend the Rick Steves’ Italy guidebook.

GOOD TO KNOW

• The Trail of the Witches is called the “Puflatschumrundung” in German and the “Giro del Bullaccia” in Italian. Signage along the trail will use both names. The trail is also identified on signs and trail maps with the initials “PU”.
• To reach the Trail of the Witches, take the Seiser Alm Bahn (the Seiser Alm gondola) from the town of Seis to Compatsch, the main entry point to the Alpe di Siusi. From there, follow the short, flat trail to the Puflatsch gondola. A quick ride to the top leads to the start of the hike.
• Grab a hiking map from the gondola station if you don’t already have one.
• For a longer hike with un uphill start, follow the signs from the gondola station in Compatsch toward Di Baita or Arnikahütte. From Arnikahütte, follow the loop trail in either direction before returning downhill to Compatsch.
• Public toilets are available at the gondola stations in Seis, Compatsch, and Puflatsch. There are also restrooms at the mountain restaurants located along the Trail of the Witches.
• Much of the route follows a wide dirt path, but be prepared for a few brief rocky sections and some modest elevation gain or loss.
• There are numerous benches and picnic areas located along the trail, ideal for a snack break or simply enjoying the views.
• Prefer to lunch at a scenic mountain “hut”? You’ll find the Puflatsch Restaurant at the start of the trail. Further along the trail you’ll find Arnikahütte and Dibaita Püflatsch Hütte. All three offer children’s playgrounds. Be aware that restaurants will typically close at least one day per week for a “quiet day”.
• On my trip, I enjoyed a wonderful lunch at Restaurant Huber Schwaige in Compatsch, another excellent choice.
• Always follow Leave No Trace principles.

HIGHLIGHTS

The Trail of the Witches is a fantastic introduction to hiking in the Alpe di Siusi and the Italian Dolomites. You’ll be treated to stunning mountain views of the rugged Schlern (formerly believed to be the home of the once infamous Schlern Witch, now the darling of local tourist shops) as well as the more distant Plattkofel and Langkofel. The mountains aren’t the only draw; this route also showcases beautiful valley views and is ideal for spotting summer wildflowers. Don’t be surprised if this trail only whets your appetite for more Alpe di Siusi adventures.

THE KIDS’ TAKE

The Trail of the Witches is great for kids and families — not too long or steep, but varied enough to stay interesting. Plus, there are a few fun surprises along the way. Keep an eye out for the knotty witch below, located along a brief rocky section about halfway through the loop trail. The restaurants along the trail all have kids’ playgrounds, and the one at the Puflatsch Restaurant is especially appealing. There’s also a fun photo opportunity atop a very large broom in keeping with the witchy theme.

WHILE YOU’RE HERE

There are many great trails in the Alpe di Siusi. Looking for something longer? Try the Panorama Trail. I especially love the ridge top hike that starts near Plattkofelhütte. Because many trails here are interconnected, you can customize your own route to fit your timeframe. With so many trails, signage can sometimes be a little confusing, so bring a trail map. Free maps are provided at local hotels and gondola stations. You can also purchase more detailed maps from many tourist information offices or local bookshops.

To explore the Alpe di Siusi, you can stay at a hotel in one of the small local villages, such as Castelrotto or Seis, or even atop the meadows in Compatsch. If you prefer a larger town, Bolzano is only half an hour by bus from the Seiser Alm gondola station. For a hefty dose of Dolomite charm, consider staying at the Cavallino d’Oro or Hotel Zum Wolf in Castelrotto. Those staying in Castelrotto or Seis may also enjoy a lovely evening walk to St. Valentin Church.

The weather report that day was noncommittal. There might be thunder showers… but maybe not. Clouds rolled across the sky, but none looked particularly threatening… yet. I was at a loss. I really wanted to head out on a longer, more challenging hike, but a shorter trai lseemed the safer bet. Ultimately, I made my way from the Seiser Alm Bahn cable car station in Compatsch to the Puflatsch gondola. I was headed for the Trail of the Witches.

There was no line at the Puflatsch gondola, and in a matter of minutes I was whisked up to the Puflatsch Restaurant, perched at the edge of the high meadows with a dazzling view of the Schlern Mountain. I took a few minutes to appreciate the view of the Schlern as the clouds shifted, letting the sun cast its warm glow on the rocky mountain face.

The Puflatsch Restaurant also goes by the name Ristorante Bullaccia. This is a good time to note that all trails, towns — everything, really — has two names in the South Tyrol region, one in German and one in Italian. Trail signage typically includes both.

In the case of the Trail of the Witches, it can be even more confusing for American travelers, because that name never appears on local signs. Instead, you’ll see both “Puflatschumrundung” and “Giro del Bullaccia”. Look for these names, as well as the initials “PU”, as you make your way around the loop trail. Nevertheless, I typically refer to the hike as the “Trail of the Witches”. It’s the name used in the Rick Steves’ guidebook, and it’s much easier for English-speakers to remember.

So it is that began my counterclockwise trek along the Puflatschumrundung, starting with a quick detour to the “Engelrast Aussichtspunkt” (the Angel’s Rest viewpoint). It’s a worthy stop, offering a fantastic view toward the Plattakofel and Langkofel mountains at the far end of the Alpe di Siusi.

Past the viewpoint, the Trail of the Witches led gradually uphill through open pastures. Be prepared to pass through gates several times along the trail, as cows and horses frequently graze here during the summer months. Most gates will close behind you automatically, but always double check. While the trail is generally in good shape, a short section was washed out near the beginning.

In some places, wildflowers grew scattered across the meadows. I was particularly taken by these delicate lilac-colored blooms nestled in the grass.

As the trail approached the opposite side of the meadow, another viewpoint appeared. A gate led to a picnic area overlooking the valley to the north, called the Val Gardena, and the town of Ortisei. A number of other hikers had stopped here for a snack break. I paused to enjoy the overlook, then continued on.

This next section of the Trail of the Witches is my favorite. The trail never strays too far from the cliff, but not too worry, there are rarely any steep drop-offs, and a fence guards the edge. The views into the green valleys below are spectacular, and the terrain becomes more varied. In a few places, you’ll clamber over rough stone steps, but there is little elevation gain. As you travel down the rocky stone path pictured above, don’t forget to keep an eye out for the sneaky witch hidden behind a pine tree.

As the trail continued, I also began encountering more trees along the route. The path is rockier here as it starts the gradual descent back toward Compatsch. At one point, another trail branches off to the right toward the town of Castelrotto (Kastelruth). Don’t take this route unless you’re looking for a steep descent on a rocky trail down into the valley. I’ve hiked it before and enjoyed it, but it’s no easy trail.

At this point, I started following signs for Compatsch. My intent was to hike back down to the Seiser Alm Bahn rather than take the smaller gondola back down from Puflatsch. On my way, I passed the charming Arnikahütte restaurant, another great option if you’re looking for a meal. It was still too early for lunch, so I only made a quick stop to check out the menu, but I’ve enjoyed the food here in the past. Those continuing the Trail of the Witches loop can follow the trail back to Puflatsch from Arnikahütte. I recommend heading to Compatsch instead if you’re looking for an easy way to extend your hike.

Not long after Arnikahütte, the trail started to head downhill in earnest. The trees were taller now, and I caught sight of some of the local horses seeking shade under a broad pine. Judging from the muddy wallow at the base of the tree, this was a popular hangout for the equine crowd.

Before the final descent to Compatsch, I passed one more mountain hut, the Dibaita Puflatsch Hütte (not to be confused with the Puflatsch Restaurant). Restaurants in the Dolomites will usually have one or two “quiet days” each week when they are closed, and today was the Puflatsch Hütte’s day off.

On the last stretch into Compatsch, I joined a wide, paved trail. The Schlern Mountain once again dominated the skyline. Soon, I was back in Compatsch and ready for a hearty lunch. I was a little disappointed to have missed my chance for a meal at a mountain hut, until, that is, I discovered Restaurant Huber Schwaige. Located ten minutes downhill from the gondola station just off the main road, Huber Schwaige provides delicious local food in a dreamy mountain hut atmosphere. Needless to say, I happily accepted my fate.

As it turns out, the thunderstorms held out that day until late afternoon, so I probably would have been fine on a longer hike. Regardless, everything had worked out for the best. The Trail of the Witches was a true delight, the stuff Dolomite dreams are made of. I lingered over lunch, soaking in the views of the Schlern before heading back to the gondola station. Sure enough, I had fallen under its spell, happy to give in to its magic.