Hiking Multnomah Falls to Wahkeena Falls on the Columbia River Gorge

Looking for more incredible hikes in the Columbia River Gorge?
Check out my Hiking Guide to the Columbia River Gorge, where you’ll find a wide range of hikes, from Wahclella Falls to Rowena Plateau and beyond.

CURRENT INFO

Multnomah Falls and the surrounding trails are part of the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area which is managed by the U.S. Forest Service. Check the Friends of the Columbia Gorge website for trail information. Trail reports are available on the Oregon Hikers website or AllTrails. The hike to the top of Multnomah Falls (but not the entire loop) is featured in the book Best Hikes with Kids: Oregon by Zach Urness and Bonnie Henderson.

GOOD TO KNOW

• Parking is free at Multnomah Falls in fall, winter, and spring. Be aware that the large parking lot fills up on weekends and sometimes on weekdays, too. It’s not uncommon to see a line of cars snaking down the road waiting to get in on busy days, so arrive early if you can.
• Timed use permits are required to park at Multnomah Falls from Memorial Day Weekend through Labor Day Weekend in 2023. Permits are available online 14 days in advance and cost $2. Visit the recreation.gov website to reserve.
• There is a much smaller parking lot at the Wahkeena Falls trailhead. During our visit, this section of Highway 30 was closed, blocking car access to the trailhead. You can check the current road status on the ODOT (Oregon Department of Transportation) Trip Check webpage.
• Because this area is prone to landslides, closures can occur with little notice. For a cautionary tale of what can happen when you don’t double check road closures, see “Our Experience” below.
• Restrooms, food service, and a gift shop are available at the Multnomah Falls Lodge.
• Sturdy shoes and hiking poles are recommended. The trail can be very muddy following rainy weather.
• Pets on leash are allowed on the trail.
• Always follow leave no trace principles.

HIGHLIGHTS

Multnomah Falls seems to be on every tourist’s list when visiting Oregon, and it’s easy to see why. Oregon’s tallest waterfall is enchanting — even more so if you arrive early in the morning to avoid the crowds. The real magic of this hike, however, are the wonders that await once you leave Multnomah Falls behind. Graceful waterfalls, tumbling creeks, and ancient basalt cliffs surrounded by verdant forest reward those who explore beyond the obvious.

THE KIDS’ TAKE

Props to my boys, they really rocked it on this hike! Maybe they were just well prepared, but I didn’t hear a single complaint. Of course, we needed breaks from time to time, and our hiking pace was certainly slower with a five-year-old, but it was a great experience. There is so much variety on this trail, making it engaging for all ages.

WHILE YOU’RE HERE

There are many other waterfalls that beckon along this stretch of the Columbia River Gorge. If you’re up for another hike, try lovely Wahclella Falls to the east. To the west, Latourell Falls and Bridal Veil Falls are popular stops along the old historic Highway 30. Those heading west can also stop by Cascade Locks for river views and a bite to eat. Check out my guide to Eating Up the Columbia River Gorge for some great options, including Brigham Fish Market, Thunder Island Brewing, or Eastwind Drive-In.

Like to bike? The Historic Columbia River Highway State Trail offers a paved path dedicated to bikes and pedestrians along sections of the former highway. We enjoyed biking the section from Wyeth to Viento, which passes several more waterfalls.

Those looking for a longer, more challenging hike have great options as well. Lengthen this hike by adding on a trip to Angels Rest, Devils Rest, or Larch Mountain, all wonderful options for intrepid hikers.

A trip to the Columbia River Gorge wouldn’t be complete without a visit to Multnomah Falls. That, at least, was my sentiment when planning our spring vacation. Millions of tourists can’t be wrong! The trick is to see it when those millions of tourists are conspicuously absent, and to make it more than just a pretty pit-stop on a quick road trip.

Fortunately, Multnomah Falls is the starting point for a number of incredible hikes. If you are able and willing to climb the switchbacks past the top of the falls, a forested wonderland awaits. These trails are popular, but noticeably less crowded than the main attraction. If you go on a weekday, you may even have some of these less famous falls all to yourself.

Accordingly, we started our hike on a Tuesday morning, arriving at Multnomah Falls by 9am. The vast parking lot was nearly empty. There was no line to use the restroom, and anyone could walk right up to the platform below the falls for an unobstructed view. My family, including my parents, headed up to the bridge while I stayed below to snap a photo. From a distance, they were mere specks on the graceful concrete arch.

My father-in-law and I soon headed up to join them, continuing past the bridge along the paved trail that switchbacks up to the top of the falls. Signposts — helpfully or not, depending on your perspective — note how many switchbacks out of 11 you’ve completed. But eleven switchbacks? That’s perhaps an underestimation. There are a few smaller ones tucked in among the long ones that didn’t make the official count.

Having decided to opt out of the longer hike, my mom and father-in-law soon turned back, while the rest of our group continued upwards. It was our first visit to the area since the 2017 Eagle Creek Fire, and the hillside still showed its scars. Where there had once been dense forest, views of the Columbia River now appeared between the surviving trees. Below blackened tree trunks, lush new growth blanketed what had been scorched earth a few years earlier. Slowly, the forest is recovering.

We finally reached the top of the switchbacks where Michael and J were waiting. Here, a short detour leads down to a small viewing platform overlooking the top of Multnomah Falls. Far below us, Multnomah Falls Lodge looked like nothing more than a prop for a toy train set. I noted that the parking lot was starting to fill, and was thankful for our early arrival.

Back on the main trail, we took a well-deserved break along the creek. Signage along the trail is excellent. Trail junctions are clearly labelled, and often include a sign showing the full trail loop with a helpful “you are here” star included. We headed toward Wahkeena Falls, crossing a graceful stone bridge. Many of the trees along the creek had escaped the fire, and provided a brilliant green canopy overhead. Following the creek, the trail wound through a narrow gorge, at one point taking us under a dramatic basalt outcropping.

Soon, we spied more waterfalls ahead. Elegant Weisendanger Falls poured into the canyon, where patches of snow still lurked in the shade. Just beyond Weisendanger, Ecola Falls tumbles into an even tighter chasm, giving hikers a tantalizing glimpse of its beauty as you walk past it from above.

After passing Ecola Falls, we turned onto trail #420, which leads toward Wahkeena Falls. Leaving Multnomah Creek behind, the rocky trail climbs gradually as it heads westward. T’s pace slowed, mainly because he was more interested in singing and playing with sticks than moving forward. Sometimes, you have to have priorities. Eventually, around the middle of the loop, the trail leveled out. The surface was softer now, packed dirt that made for easy hiking. We continued toward Wahkeena Springs, and enjoyed a leisurely lunch break.

Past Wahkeena Springs, the trail becomes rocky again, now following Wahkeena Creek as it descends through a steep ravine. It’s almost as if the creek is one continuous waterfall bounding joyously over mossy rocks and fallen logs. After a series of short switchbacks, delicate Fairy Falls came into view, tracing a lacy path to join Wahkeena Creek.

Pretty as Wahkeena Creek is, this is where the going gets tough. Sharp rocks litter the trail as it continues downward. Sturdy shoes are a must, and my dad certainly appreciated his walking stick. I focused my attention on five-year-old T, urging him (like any mom would) not to run.

Before reaching the final series of switchbacks, the forest opened up and we glimpsed the Columbia River once again. To take in the full view, we stopped at Lemmons Viewpoint and marveled at the deep blue river below. We could also see the parking lot, with both our cars parked and waiting. Before we started the hike, I suggested to my mom that she and my father-in-law meet us there. This would give them the chance to visit Wahkeena Falls before our arrival, and save us the short hike back to the Multnomah Falls parking lot. Win-win! Or so I thought… but let’s not get ahead of ourselves. We still have one more waterfall to go!

After leaving Lemmons Viewpoint, the boys raced ahead down the switchbacks. The rocky trail was behind us; here, the path was once more paved, and the kids couldn’t resist the chance to let loose. Rounding a bend, we approached the final waterfall of our trek, Wahkeena Falls, twisting through the basalt before cascading over the stony creekbed below. It was truly a grand finale to our hike!

Except… the hike wasn’t quite over. We quickly reached the Wahkeena Falls trailhead, and found it completely devoid of any cars. The picnic area was wildly overgrown. No matter; I had seen the our cars from Lemmons Point, and knew they were in another lot, just a quick trip across the train tracks. But therein lay the rub: how do we cross the tracks? A chain link fence blocked them off from the picnic area. Built atop a steep embankment, crossing the tracks posed a challenge, even without the fence. Surely there was an easy way to cross, maybe a pedestrian bridge or underpass? In desperation, I called my mom to see if she knew the secret.

“Head west!” she told me. “No — east!”

We followed the road east, past the end of the chain link fence. At this point, we were well above the tracks, and the way down was steep. With no trail to follow, we stumbled through the brush. Just across the tracks, my mom waited.

Now, I do not condone crossing railroad tracks where pains have clearly been taken to keep pedestrians out. Speeding trains are no joke. But by this time we were committed, and with no trains in sight, we crossed the tracks. This was not the end of our trials — we needed a safe spot to descend, which meant walking alongside the tracks until we found one. Mercifully, the walk was short, and we soon emerged in the parking lot at Benson State Recreation Area.

Together at last, we broke out the snacks and water bottles. Well, almost together. Michael had wandered off before the rest of us made our infamous track crossing, and was still missing in action. I wasn’t too worried, as he has a habit of disappearing, but generally shows up before too long. He soon appeared, rather flustered by the whole experience, but intact. We all breathed a sigh of relief when a train rushed by a few minutes later, thankful to be nowhere near it.

The moral of my tale is twofold. First, the hike to Mulnomah and Wahkeena Falls is incredible, and I highly recommend it.

Second, don’t arrange for a car to pick you up from the Wahkeena Falls trailhead unless you are absolutely sure it is open. As I write this, Highway 30 to Wahkeena Falls is indefinitely closed for road work. On our visit, my mom checked with a staff person at Multnomah Falls to verify the road to Wahkeena was open, and was told it was. Later, when she and my father-in-law ended up at Benson Sate Recreation Area, they didn’t realize they were in the wrong place until we began to search for a way to cross the train tracks. A series of misunderstandings led to an unexpected adventure, although one I hope that neither you, dear reader, nor I will ever repeat. If you find yourself in this situation, admit defeat and walk the easy half mile trail back to Multnomah Falls. But regardless of any mishaps — what an amazing hike!