Hiking from Hallein to the Kleiner Barmstein near Salzburg

Looking for more ways to wander in Salzburg?
Try a hike up Kapuzinerberg, or take the trek from Hohensalzburg Fortress to Mönchsberg. For another fun foray into the outdoors, hike past waterfalls at Almbachklamm.

CURRENT INFO

You can find a map for the route I took to Kleiner Barmstein on the AllTrails website. I highly recommend downloading it in advance of your hike. Planning a trip to Salzburg? I recommend Rick Steves’ Vienna, Salzburg & Tirol guidebook.

I HIKED IT

August, 2024, around 2.5 hours to and from Hallein

GOOD TO KNOW

• To reach Hallein and the trail to Kleiner Barmstein, take bus #160 or #170 from Salzburg. Both buses stop at Mirabellplatz in front of Mirabell Palace. There are other routes that work, but these two are the most direct for many tourists staying in Salzburg.
• Check bus schedule information for Salzburg on the city’s public transportation website. Choose your starting point in Salzburg (“Mirabellplatz” if you plan to depart from Mirabell Palace) and look for routes to Hallein Steiner, Hallein Stadtpark, or Hallein Bahnhof (train station). Signs at the bus stops indicate departure times, and the front desk staff at your hotel are also a good source for local information.
• Tickets can be purchased on board the bus and cost around €5.70 one way. Please note that ticket prices are always subject to change.
• I recommend disembarking at the Hallein Steiner or Hallein Stadtpark bus stops, which are shortly before the Hallein train station. From there, walk across the bridge and continue up the hill through town to start the hike.
• Heading to the Hallein Salt Mine (Salzwelten Salzburg)? Take the public bus #41 from Hallein. Gluttons for punishment can hike to the mine if you’re up for more stairs!
• Fun fact: Although this hike begins in Austria, the viewpoint atop Kleiner Barmstein is in Bavaria, Germany! Hallein is practically on the border with Germany, and this short hike takes you into two countries.

• Navigating the trail to Kleiner Barmstein can be confusing, so I highly recommend downloading a map, such as the one I used on AllTrails, ahead of time. This trail starts with an uphill walk through Hallein, followed by a paved trail, then a short walk along a paved road, then more paved and gravel trails… you get the idea. Trail signs are a big help, but it’s wise to have an online map to ensure you stay on the correct route.
• Take note: there is also a Grosser Barmstein. You’ll see many trail signs, marked “Barmsteine” that point toward both Grosser and Kleiner Barmstein. When you near the steep ascent for Kleiner Barmstein, the trails will diverge. The word “Barmstein” (literally “bare stone”) refers to a large exposed rock formation in German. Kleiner means “small”, while “grosser” means large.
• Wear good hiking boots or shoes.
• Hiking poles are recommended.
• Bring layers, as the weather can change quickly.
• Water is not available along the trail. Fill up a water bottle at your hotel to bring with you, along with some snacks.
• There are no restrooms along the trail. If you are eating lunch in Hallein, take advantage of the restroom prior to your hike. Otherwise, try the train station.
• Hallein’s Old Town is home to several restaurants, bakeries, and cafés. I highly recommend Die Schleckerei if you want to treat yourself. They serve coffee and pastries, and also offer a few delicious gourmet lunch specials.
• Always follow Leave No Trace principles.

HIGHLIGHTS

The views over the Salzach River Valley from the top of Kleiner Barmstein are magnificent. It’s a tough climb, but if you enjoy a cliffside scramble, this will be right up your alley. The rest of the hike passes through verdant meadows and forests and past idyllic Austrian farmhouses. Hiking to Kleiner Barmstein is a great way to escape the crowds of tourists gawking along Getreidegasse in Salzburg’s Old Town. Much of the time, you’ll have this trail completely to yourself.

THE KIDS’ TAKE

The hike to Kleiner Barmstein is good for older kids with a sense of adventure who can safely maneuver the rocky climb to the top. With younger kids, I recommend sticking to easier trails with a lower likelihood of anyone tumbling headlong down a rocky precipice. Believe me, that final trek to Kleiner Barmstein is no joke! For a fun, family-friendly adventure near Salzburg, I highly recommend the Almbachklamm (Almbach Gorge) trail as an alternative.

WHILE YOU’RE HERE

Hallein is perhaps best known for its salt mine, the Salzwelten Salzburg. From Hallein, you can take the public bus #41 to reach the mine (disembark at the Salzbergwerk stop), or you can take the Hop On Hop Off bus from Salzburg. Intrepid hikers can also hike there from Hallein.

In town, I enjoyed a causually elegant lunch at Die Schleckerei before starting my hike. I highly recommend this spot for pastries to go, coffee, or a leisurely mid-day meal.

While most Americans know it for Mozart and The Sound of Music, Salzburg is also a great place to hike and explore on foot. Try hiking up to Hohensalzburg Fortress and across the Mönchsberg, or wander the trails over Kapuzinerberg. Rent a bike for a ride along the river and out to Hellbrunn Palace.

From Salzburg, bus #840 leads to even more natural wonders. Stop for a hike through mystical Almbachklamm (Almbach Gorge), glide silently across Königssee by boat, or marvel at the view from the Eagle’s Nest. If you have an interest in the Nazi/World War II history of this area, I highly recommend a tour with Eagle’s Nest Historical Tours.

I’ve been to Salzburg many times, and this charming Austrian town in the foothills of the Alps never disappoints. But if you tire of the tourists that throng Old Town, never fear; an abundance of hiking trails and sleepy villages are only a short bus ride away. After some research on AllTrails, I decided to catch the #160 bus to Hallein for a trek to Kleiner Barmstein. I didn’t know exactly what to expect, but the gorgeous views on the AllTrails photos definitely caught my attention.

After stepping of the bus in Hallein, I took a moment to orient myself. The Salzach River was only a few blocks away, and as I rounded the street corner, I caught sight of the bridge that crosses into Old Town. Bingo!

Before I could officially start the hike, there was one more order of business: lunch. I needed sustenance, and I was hoping Hallein would provide. To my delight, I stumbled across Die Schleckerei, a charming café adjacent to a chic hotel called The Salt. With shrimp cakes served in a tomato bisque, salad, and focaccia, this was perhaps the most elegant meal I have had the pleasure of enjoying before a hike.

Now, let the climb begin! The main street led uphill past the church with the large, modern steeple that dominates Hallein’s skyline. I passed the Silent Night Museum, then turned onto Antoniusweg, a shady pedestrian path overlooking the town.

Antoniusweg soon came to an end, and I was faced with a road with almost no shoulder. Carefully checking for oncoming traffic, I inched along the narrow path. Thankfully, I soon came to another trail sign pointing away from the road toward a steep paved path.

The pavement ended and I was now walking up a wide gravel path. The ravine to the left offered a glimpse of a slender waterfall cascading through a narrow gorge. The trail narrowed as well, eventually leading to a concrete dam, where it joined a paved single lane road. Only a short distance ahead, I could see a path veering off to the right into the woods.

I checked my map on AllTrails to confirm I was heading the right direction, then continued up the wooded path. Onwards and upwards I went, until the path opened up onto a large, grassy hillside that was almost blindingly green. This, I decided, was a good time for a water break.

After my break, the path changed yet again. Now it was little more than a shallow imprint worn into the grass. At some point, I crossed the border into Germany, but I couldn’t say exactly where. As I continued, the trail became gravel again, until at last I made to the final ascent: the climb to Kleiner Barmstein.

So far, the hike had been pretty easy. Sure, it was all uphill, but nothing overwhelming as long as I kept a slow pace and stopped for an occasional gulp of water. This was about to change.

According to the sign that marks the beginning of the climb, “sure-footedness and a head for heights are required!” (“Trittsicherheit und Schwindelfreiheit erforderlich!” — I had to look up “Schwindelfreiheit”, as that was a new one for me). No kidding! Just look at this trail.

I spent most of the climb watching my footing. But it’s worth stopping when you can for some crazy views. This one, seen through a giant crack in the rock, is especially eye-catching.

Also, take note that while these photos do a pretty good job of showing the rough terrain, they do not give justice to the terrifyingly steep drop-off to my right as I slowly made my way to the top. The grass and foliage obscure the edge, but beyond this is a rocky cliff, and it’s a long way down.

By the time I reached the top, I was panting and my head was starting to spin. A maypole marked the summit, and boy was I thankful for a small bench where I could sit, catch my breath, and soak in the view. Below me, the town of Hallein spilled out from the Salzach River into a crazy quilt of rolling hills dappled in myriad shades of green.

It was soon time to return to earth. I carefully climbed back down the treacherous trail until my feet were once again on level ground. From here, I followed the trail across the great green meadow once more. Looking up, I could see the maypole, small and alone, standing proudly atop Kleiner Barmstein.

After crossing the meadow, I looked for trail signs pointing the way toward Ruine Thürndl, the ruins of a 14th century castle. Rather than walk back the way I came, I followed the trail into the woods, eager to see what remained of the castle.

The trail through the woods was markedly different from my outboand journey. Here in the forest, it was muddy, slick, and often rocky. I stepped gingerly around the worst patches of mud to avoid slipping.

Midway along the forest trail, a sign pointed toward Ruine Thürndl. A small path detoured from the mail route, leading to the ruins. Little is left of the castle, but what remained stood proud and mighty under the afternoon sun.

Back on the main trail, the going got rough. The rocks got rockier and the mud got muddier. Fortunately, I made it through without incident, careful not to slip on the dry gravel that marked the final stretch of the trail.

The trail eventually joined a paved road that seemed somewhat familiar. Aha! This was the same single lane road I met by the dam on the hike up. This time, the dam was behind me, so instead of taking the trail back down through the ravine, I followed the single lane road down to the main road, enjoying views of the verdant green hills.

Soon, I was back on the main road, which led directly to the Antoniusweg walking path. In mere minutes, I was back in Hallein. I crossed the river, then checked the timetables posted at the bus stop.

It was a relief to rest my feet on the bus ride into Salzburg. The trail to Kleiner Barmstein can be hard on the feet, not to mention the knees. But what a beautiful spot! A gorgeous trail in the Austrian countryside with incredible views and virtually no tourists (other than, I admit, myself)? Sign me up! For those who are sure-footed and have a head for heights, the hike to Kleiner Barmstein is a gem.