Almbachklamm: Hiking the Waterfalls of the Almbach Gorge near Salzburg

Looking for more ways to wander in Salzburg?
Try a hike up Kapuzinerberg, or take the trek from Hohensalzburg Fortress to Mönchsberg.

CURRENT INFO

You can find a map for my full loop through Almbachklamm on the AllTrails website. Planning a trip to Salzburg? I recommend the Rick Steves’ Vienna, Salzburg & Tirol guidebook, which includes a mention of this hike.

GOOD TO KNOW

• Yes, Almbachklamm is located in Germany — Bavaria, to be specific. But since Salzburg, Austria, is the closest transportation hub, most travelers will access the gorge from Salzburg.
• There is a cash-only entrance fee of €6 per adult and €4 per child to enter Almbachklamm. Be sure to keep your ticket, as you may have to show it again if you return through the gorge.
• Almbachklamm is easily reached by bus #840, which connects Salzburg and Berchtesgaden. Bus line #840 starts at the Salzburg Train Station (Hauptbahnhof), and has a convenient stop located in front of Mirabell Palace.
• Heading to the Eagle’s Nest or the Berchtesgaden Salt Mine? Almbachklamm is a great bonus stop en route between Salzburg and Berchtesgaden.
• Bus timetables and related information can be found online here. I haven’t found a good English language website for this bus #840, but your web browser may translate the page for you. If you are staying in Salzburg, the hotel desk staff are a great resource for local information.
• Tickets can be purchased on board the bus and cost around €3 one way. Please note that ticket prices are always subject to change.
• I recommend disembarking at the Kugelmühle bus stop. You can also disembark at Almbachklamm, which is the next stop when traveling from Salzburg.

• The trail through Almbachklamm rises steeply through the gorge. Expect lots of stairs, slick and muddy patches, and exposed edges. Hiking boots or shoes are recommended. Trekking poles aren’t necessary, but may be helpful for some.
• For a shorter visit, take a 2-mile out-and-back hike to Sulzer Waterfall. You’ll get the very best of Almbachklamm with less elevation gain.
• Many longer hikes are also possible. I recommend hiking to the lovely pilgrimage church of Maria Gern, beautifully situated in a valley edged with Alpine peaks. Ettenberg is another nice option.
• Almbachklamm is a good cloudy or rainy day hike. The focus here is on the sights and sounds found right at your feet, not lofty distant views.
• Restrooms are located near the start of the trail. Fancy, self-cleaning restrooms at that! Naturally, you have to pay to use them. If you are eating at the restaurant, you can use the restroom there for free instead.
• Pension zur Kugelmühle, a large restaurant with plenty of outdoor seating, is located just before the trailhead.
• Always follow Leave No Trace principles.

HIGHLIGHTS

With its delicate waterfalls tumbling through a narrow gorge filled with crystal clear pools, Almbachklamm (aka Almbach Gorge) is a delight to explore. The best part is the initial mile or so through the gorge, making it a convenient short hike easily accessed by bus from Salzburg. With more time, a variety of trails branch out to charming meadows made all the more picturesque by quaint Bavarian churches.

THE KIDS’ TAKE

Albachklamm is a great hike for kids — provided they know how to stay on the trail and walk along ledges with sharp drop-offs. Although the trail is sometimes exposed, there are usually rails or cables to ease the way. Still, it can be slick, and this is no place to run. Kids who are prepared will love following the waterfalls through the gorge, and every twist in the trail brings a new surprise.

For many families, I recommend an out and back hike to the Sulzer Waterfall. At just over two miles, this makes for a much shorter hike, and you’ll still see all the best parts of the gorge. The full loop I describe below includes much more elevation gain, and the additional miles are mostly spent wandering through the woods. Don’t forget to check out the Kugelmühle (marble mill) at the base of the trail near the restaurant. As is common at trailheads throughout Germany, the restaurant is a great place to stop for a casual meal or snack.

WHILE YOU’RE HERE

Almbachklamm is the perfect way to start (or end) a longer day hike. On my first visit, I did a longer clockwise loop, ascending first to the heavenly Maria Gern Church, then finishing with a downhill hike through the gorge. And yes, in case you’re wondering, I did have to pay when I exited Almbachklamm. Other trails in the area are free.

This corner of Bavaria is chock full of natural beauty. Perhaps the most famous site is Königssee, the hauntingly green lake nestled between sheer rocky cliffs. From Berchtesgaden, take a short bus ride (or walk the trail) to the boat dock for an unforgettable ride across the lake. I recommend arriving early, as Königssee is hugely popular.

Above Berchtesgaden, the Eagle’s Nest is another popular sight. The views from this mountaintop perch are incredible. While you can visit on your own, if you have an interest in the Nazi/World War II history of this area, I highly recommend a tour with Eagle’s Nest Historical Tours. Book in advance, as these tours fill up well ahead of time.

Last but not least, if you’re staying in Salzburg, be sure to check out my posts on hiking beautiful Kapuzinerberg and Mönchsberg.

Several years ago, I hiked Almbachklamm for the first time. On that trip, I wandered across subalpine meadows and past miniature onion-domed churches before winding my way back down through the enchanting Almbach Gorge. This time, I was a little short on time, but still wanted to do more than just hike the gorge. With help from AllTrails, I found a loop option that looked just right.

My journey started at the bus stop in front of Mirabell Palace in Salzburg, where I caught the #840 bus headed toward Berchtesgaden. After purchasing my ticket directly from the driver, I took a seat and watched the scenery go by as forested green hills replaced the city streets of Salzburg.

When the bus reached Kugelmühle (helpfully noted on the digital sign on board the bus as well as the bus stop itself), I disembarked. After crossing the river, I followed the very prominent signage and turned left toward Almbachklamm and Kugelmühle. Smaller yellow signs are posted specifically for hikers, and provide helpful approximate travel times for those on foot.

Many cars were parked along the road, and even more greeted me at the parking lot. This is a popular spot for locals and German vacationers, who flock to the pristine natural beauty of Bavaria. The large inn and restaurant by the Kugelmühle was buzzing. And what is a Kugelmühle, you may well ask? A marble mill, where a series of small waterwheels slowly grind bits of marble into smooth, round spheres. I could hear the mill at work as I paused to take a look. According to the sign, it’s the last marble mill to be found in Germany. You can even buy a marble souvenir to take home if you’re so inclined.

Not far beyond the Kugelmühle is the entrance to Almbachklamm. Bring cash, because you’ll need it to purchase your ticket. Is it worth the cost? At €6 per person (€4 per child), I say yes. How often do you get the chance to explore a fairy tale gorge from a cliff-hugging trail, gazing into pools of impossibly clear water? OK, so it’s not the only such gorge in the region. As I mentioned, Bavaria truly is a natural wonderland. But Almbachklamm is one of the most easily accessible gorges for us tourists without a car, so enjoy it to the fullest.

Once past the entrance station, you’ll quickly find yourself in the narrowest part of Almbachklamm. Rock walls tower above, while bridge after bridge crosses the gentle stream. Stairs lead ever higher as you wander upstream, passing waterfall after waterfall.

Pretty though it was, I noticed the water levels were low. This didn’t affect my enjoyment of the hike, but if you hope to experience the power of water pummeling down the gorge, a May or or June visit would be preferable.

In the heart of the gorge, much of the trail follows metal walkways bolted into the cliff. Some sections are left natural, and these can be slick or muddy, especially after rainfall. A few sections make use of a simple cable attached to the rock rather than a rail. For the most part, the walkways aren’t too high, although there are some pretty tall bridges further into the gorge.

The gorge gradually opens up as you travel further, and it wasn’t long before I reached the Sulzer Waterfall. It’s possible to access the stream on foot in this area, which would be quite enjoyable on a hot day. The Sulzer Waterfall itself was pretty meager, and not the most impressive sight along the trail. Nevertheless, this is a good turnaround point, especially for families. By now, you’ve hit the highlights of Almbachklamm.

Not far past the Sulzer Waterfall, yellow trail signs begin to appear. Since I wasn’t headed for any of the comparatively far-flung locales noted on the signs (Maria Gern, Ettenberg, etc.), I relied on my AllTrails map to navigate. Unfortunately, the map often lagged, making it difficult to see my position on the trail accurately. This led to a few wrong turns that I quickly righted. The trail grew steeper and rougher as I climbed.

Even with the wrong turns, I eventually made it to the dam at the far end of Almbachklamm. A mere trickle of water passed through the massive wall, and on the other side the rocky streambed was as dry as a bone.

I crossed the dam and entered the forest. More yellow signs pointed out the options, and I took a moment to consider. I was now heading back toward Kugelmühle, but there is often more than one route for any given destination. In this case, the decision wasn’t difficult. One sign for Kugelmühle pointed back toward Almbachklamm, while the other led further into the woods. Into the woods I went.

The sign indicated it was another 1.25 hours to Kugelmühle. OK, sounds good. I walked a few more minutes and came across another sign. Still 1.25 hours to Kugelmühle. Well, that’s to be expected; I hadn’t walked very far. Further along, I passed yet another sign, and yep, you guessed it — 1.25 hours to Kugelmühle. I began to wonder if I was under some strange spell of the Bavarian forest, perhaps fated to never reach Kugelmühle, no matter how far I wandered. Also, how many times can I say “Kugelmühle” in one paragraph? Apparently a lot.

Eventaully, I came upon a farmhouse at the edge of a lovely clearing. I checked the sign: still 1.25 hours to Kugelmühle (Bavaria, what is up?!). Undeterred, I followed the trail as it skirted the farm buildings before joining a gravel road. Finally, I came upon another sign… it was now just one hour to Kugelmühle. The spell was broken!

I had gained a lot of elevation through the final portion of Almbachklamm and the initial route through the forest. No doubt about it, this hike is a great workout. Now, the trail led downhill, sometimes steeply, until I once again emerged at the parking lot near Kugelmühle. Willingly, I paid to use the space age, self-cleaning toilet before heading to the bus stop.

This time, I turned right when leaving the parking lot and followed an easy path along the river. After crossing a small footbridge, I walked past a few industrial buildings and crossed the road to meet the bus stop. For a short afternoon hike, Almbachklamm is truly a treat. Give it a go, and you, like me, may find yourself under its magical spell.