Hohensalzburg Fortress to Mönchsberg: Hiking in the Heart of Salzburg

Looking to explore more of the outdoors in Salzburg?
Head across the Salzach River to Kapuzinerberg in New Town.

I HIKED IT

July, 2023, about four hours to and from my hotel in Salzburg’s New Town, including over an hour spent exploring Hohensalzburg Fortress

CURRENT INFO

Trail reports and a map of one of many possible routes are available on the AllTrails website. Check out the Hohensalzburg website to plan your visit to the fortress. For a good general guidance on visiting Salzburg, I recommend Rick Steves’ Vienna, Salzburg & Tirol guidebook.

GOOD TO KNOW

• Both Hohensalzburg Fortress and the Mönchsberg are within easy walking distance of Salzburg’s Old Town. To start your hike with the fortress, head to the funicular station located behind Kapitelplatz. For more information, see “My Experience” below.
• Want to visit the fortress without the uphill hike? Take the funicular. This option skips the steepest section of the walk.
• I recommend visiting Hohensalzburg Fortress in the early morning or late afternoon. In peak season, this is the best way to beat the crowds. When visiting at these times, I don’t find it necessary to purchase tickets in advance.
• All-inclusive tickets without the funicular ride up to the fortress cost €13.20. Child tickets cost €5.00. The trip back down on the funicular is included, should you decide to take it.
• Free public toilets are available at Hohensalzburg Fortress. They are also available at cafes and restaurants located on and around Mönchsberg.
• Bring water. You may run across a few fountains with potable water, but it’s best to be prepared.
• The main trails across Mönchsberg are paved. Some side trails are unpaved. They tend to be in good shape, but some are a little rough.
• Be prepared for lots of stairs. The most direct path to Hohenalzburg includes a long stretch of stairs, as well as a steep climb up a paved road with switchbacks. On Mönchsberg, the main trail is fairly level, with multiple options to branch off and head down stairways or short switchback trails into Old Town.
• Most trail junctions are signed, but Google Maps is also helpful for finding your way.
• There are many benches located along the trail, perfect for picnicking or soaking in the view.
• Always follow Leave No Trace principles. There are a few garbage bins along the trail, but be prepared to pack out everything you bring with you.

HIGHLIGHTS

Hohensalzburg is an imposing sight, a medieval fortress standing guard over the magical Baroque city of Salzburg. If you have time, buy the all-inclusive ticket, which costs only a few more euros than the standard ticket and includes a few extra sights, such as the royal chambers. The views from Hohensalzburg are magnificent, and the walk across Mönchsberg offers more views and a refreshing escape from the tourist crush of Old Town.

THE KIDS’ TAKE

A Visit to Hohensalzburg Fortress is fun for the whole family, and some of the exhibits are even geared specifically toward kids. If they’re anything like my kids, they may prefer to take the funicular to the castle rather than walk. A good plan would be to take the funicular up early in the morning to beat the crowds, tour the fortress, and then continue with the walk across Mönchsberg. I recommend packing a picnic lunch or enjoying a restaurant meal at Stadtalm. A small playground is located at the far end of the Mönchsberg near Augustinergasse. See the map at the top of this post for locations.

WHILE YOU’RE HERE

For more urban hiking in Salzburg, check out Kapuzinerberg, located across the Salzach River from Hohensalzburg. The trails on Kapuzinerberg have the feel of a “real hike” (read: some trails can be a bit rocky and rough), and there are outstanding views from there as well.

There are several good options for lunch or dinner on and around the Mönchsberg. I recommend these places over the pricier, more touristy restaurants at Hohensalzburg. For a fabulous view, check out Stadtalm Cafe, which also operates a simple guesthouse.

Around the corner from the north end of Mönchsberg near the end of this hike, the Gasthof Krimpelstätter and the larger Augustiner beer garden are perfect for enjoying a beer or traditional meal in a leafy outdoor setting. Take note that Krimpelstätter is open at lunchtime, while the Augustiner opens later in the afternoon. Down on the river, Café am Kai is a fun spot for a light meal, coffee, cocktails, or dessert.

Around 9 in the morning, I set off from my hotel in Salzburg’s New Town and headed across Mozartsteg (Mozart Bridge) to Old Town. A brisk walk across Residenzplatz, the grand square with the mighty horse fountain, and around the cathedral led to Kapitelplatz. This more modest town square, watched over by the unmistakable figure of a man perched atop a giant golden ball, signaled that the steep climb to Hohensalzburg was just around the corner.

The gold ball, a modern sculpture by artist Stephan Balkenhol named “Sphaera”, is a key landmark in Old Town. With the cathedral at your back and the golden sphere to your left, walk straight across the square and continue up the street to the funicular station.

Now, if you want to keep things easy, you could always take the funicular up to Hohensalzburg. And for some, that is doubtless the best (or only) option. But if you, like me, are looking to expend a little more energy, keep walking.

Not far past the funicular entrance, below the Stiegl-Keller sign (a local pub), I spotted a staircase leading up to the right. OK, if I’m being honest I actually didn’t pay any attention to the stairs the first time I passed by. Instead, I made my way up the road until I came to the top of the stairs. Realizing that I had missed a more direct route, I headed back down to check it out. While either option is good, the stairs are the preferred route for many pedestrians. On your behalf, I’m happy to have tested both routes so you can choose for yourself. You’re welcome.

So, back to the stairs. There are a lot of them. Take it as easy as you like, and know that once you reach the top there will be no more stairs before you reach the fortress. Of course, that doesn’t mean the way will be easy. At the top of the stairs, turn right to begin the long, steep ascent following the road called “Hoher Weg” (literally “High Way”). Don’t worry, it’s worth it. Pause to take in the view, and know that it only gets better the higher you climb.

The path climbs steeply, and soon passes through an archway. From here, take a sharp turn to the left to reach the castle entrance. If you wish to continue your hike to Mönchsberg after visiting the fortress, you’ll return to this same spot. At that point, turn left to continue to Mönchsberg rather than passing back through the arch. But I’m getting ahead of myself. For now, on to the fortress!

Having arrived at the entrance gate before 10am, there was no line at the ticket booth (it was another story on the way back down). I bought an all-inclusive ticket, which also covers the return trip by funicular. This is a handy option if you decide you’re not up for a longer hike after you finish your tour of the fortress.

I took my time exploring Hohensalzburg. There is free wifi at the fortress, and you can download a free online tour, maps, and other information. The free online tour is basic, but provides a nice overview and includes some fun little comic strips highlighting different features of the fortress. I won’t go into great detail here, as my focus is to describe the hike, but I highly recommend a visit to Hohensalzburg if you visit Salzburg. It’s a great chance to explore a true medieval fortress, and a fascinating peek into Salzburg’s past.

There are many good viewpoints from the fortress. One of the best is the terrace near the funicular station, which provides an excellent view of the Salzburger Dom (cathedral). For a fuller picture of how Salzburg functioned for hundreds of years as a prince-archbishopric within the Holy Roman Empire (that is, a principality where the leader was both the secular and religious head of state), be sure to tour the Dom as well.

I recommend checking out the view from the terrace here, but take note: if you are following my lead, you will need to climb all the way back up these stairs to continue the hike across Mönchsberg. Other than the funicular, there is only one exit from Hohensalzburg, and it is the same as the entrance. But if you are ready for a break, you can use your ticket to take the funicular back down to Old Town instead.

Ready to continue the journey, I headed back through the fortress courtyard and followed the steep path down to the entrance. The entrance was much busier now, with a line of tourists waiting to purchase their tickets. I happily passed them by, and continued my walk toward Mönchsberg, passing under the funicular as is sped by overhead.

Many trails atop the Mönchsberg are paved, and some also double as roads. Fortunately, there is little traffic, as the roads are only used for deliveries to the hotels and restaurants located on the Mönchsberg, as well as a handful of private residences. Yes, you can live on this beautiful, forested hill overlooking Salzburg… assuming, that is, that you can afford it.

My first detour on this hike was to Richterhöhe, a viewpoint that showcases the “backside” of Hohensalzburg Fortress, and a good look at the mountains to the south. You can also catch a glimpse of Schloss Leopoldskron, a gorgeous mansion situated on a small lake. If this setting looks familiar, you’re not mistaken. Leopoldskron is one of the residences used in the filming of The Sound of Music. Remember that scene where Maria and the children fall into the lake upon meeting the Baroness Schraeder? Yep, this is the place. Today, the mansion is the site of an elegant hotel.

Surprises of all kinds await those who venture across Mönchsberg, and it’s impossible to uncover them all in one visit. I spotted the modern sculpture above just off the main path, not far from Richterhöhe. Take your time; this hike is meant to be savored.

Speaking of savoring, by now you might be getting a little hungry. Luckily, it’s not much further to Stadtalm Cafe. As you approach an impressive stretch of the old city wall, follow the signs and veer right off the main trail, leading to a glorious viewpoint and sweet little cafe. I didn’t stop for lunch on this excursion, although I’ve enjoyed a meal here in the past. Coincidentally, I also stayed overnight here on my very first visit to Salzburg while in college, back when it was still a modest youth hostel.

After pausing to appreciate the view, I headed through an archway in the old city walls next to the cafe. Here, the path follows the city wall before rejoining the main route across Mönchserg. I turned right onto the main path to continue my walk.

On I wandered, pausing for another great view by the Modern Art Museum. Take a moment while here to step into the Sky Space by James Turrell. The museum is also home to a chic outdoor restaurant. Even though it was well past noon, I wasn’t yet ready to stop for lunch, so I continued my walk downhill as I neared the north end of the Mönchsberg.

Unlike the steep cliffs surrounding Hohensalzburg, the north end of the Mönchsberg gently slopes down to meet Augustinergasse, a quiet alleyway that joins up with the much busier Müllner Hauptstrasse. For a great Salzburg beer garden experience, turn left onto Müllner Hauptstrasse from Augustinergasse and you’ll soon come to Gasthof Krimpelstätter, a peaceful oasis under the chestnut trees. Not far from here, the Augustiner Brewery offers a larger traditional beer garden and restaurant, but please note that it doesn’t open until 2:30 or 3 in the afternoon.

As for me, I turned right onto Müllner Hauptstrasse, following it down to the Salzach River. Another favorite place of mine (not open at the time, unfortunately) is Café am Kai, a fun place for drinks or dessert overlooking the water. From here, I crossed Müllnersteg (Müllner Bridge), and followed the riverside path back to New Town.

The flat, paved path along the river was the perfect way to end the hike. Get the tough part over with the climb to Hohensalzburg at the start, and it’s all downhill from there. In the best way possible, of course. And yes, I’m repeating what I said at the end of my Kapuzinerberg hike, but it remains just as true here. On a sunny summer afternoon, I can think of no better way to experience Salzburg at its absolute best.