Hiking the Grand Balcon Nord Trail in the French Alps

Looking for more fantastic trails near Chamonix?
Head to Les Praz and take the cable car to La Flégère to hike the iconic Grand Balcon Sud.

CURRENT INFO

You can find a map and reviews for the Grand Balcon Nord on the AllTrails website. For general trip planning, I recommend the Rick Steves France guidebook.

GOOD TO KNOW

• To start the hike, take the cable car from Chamonix to Plan de l’Aiguille, the station located midway between Chamonix and the Aiguille du Midi. If you plan to visit the Aiguille du Midi, it’s ideal to do that first and then disembark at Plan de l’Aiguille on the way back down to start the hike. The trail ends at the Montenvers Train Station, where you can catch a train back to Chamonix.
• If you plan to include the Aiguille du Midi, the best deal is to buy a Mont Blanc multi-pass, which covers the cost of local cable cars and the train to and from Montenvers. You can buy passes for one or more days, depending on your plans. Although there is a small discount if you purchase passes online ahead of time, I prefer to buy my pass in person because the weather here is so changeable. It’s not uncommon for the cable car to the Aiguille du Midi to shut down because of high winds even on an otherwise beautiful day.
• While hiking, follow signs toward Montenvers Mer de Glace. In the latter half of the hike, you’ll reach a junction with two signs pointing toward Montenvers Mer de Glace — follow the trail on the right! The lefthand trail (labeled “Passage délecat”) may appear easier at first, but is not the correct trail.
• Public toilets are available at cable car and train stations.
• The Grand Balcon Nord Trail is rough and rocky. Be prepared to cross large, uneven stone steps and even a giant pile of broken rock. While the elevation gain is moderate, there is one section of switchbacks as the trail nears Montenvers.
• Wear hiking boots or shoes with good tread. Hiking poles are recommended but not required.
• Bring layers, a rain jacket, suncreen, sunglasses, water, and snacks. Weather changes rapidly in the mountains. Even on a sunny day, rain clouds can roll in quickly. The temperature drops when the sun slips behind a cloud, and direct sunlight brings the risk of sunburn.
• Always follow Leave No Trace principles.

HIGHLIGHTS

For superlative mountain views, few trails can beat the Grand Balcon Nord. Sure, it’s popular, and unless you get a very early start, you won’t hike alone. But with nonstop views like these, you probably won’t care (at least that’s how I feel). Be sure to take the occasional moment to stop and look behind you, where Mont Blanc dominates the skyline. Believe me, words (not to mention photos) don’t do it justice.

THE KIDS’ TAKE

My kids haven’t yet had the chance to hike the Grand Balcon Nord, but I’ve seen plenty of other families out on the trail. Young hikers may enjoy the rocky terrain more than the stunning views. I’ve found that to be true for my kids, who are often more drawn to the tactile experience of the hike rather than views of unreachable mountain peaks.

Be sure your kids are comfortable with exposed ridge trails before attempting this route. While the drop-off isn’t sheer, it’s important for all hikers to be sure-footed and secure in their hiking skills. On a clear day, take them to the Aiguille du Midi before the hike. Ogling the glaciers from an elevation of 12,605 feet (3,842 meters) is a thrill at any age.

WHILE YOU’RE HERE

I highly recommend hiking the Grand Balcon Nord following a visit to the Auiguille du Midi, the highest point in Europe you can reach by cable car. Here in the thinning air, you’ll gasp at the pristine glaciers and snowfields that grace the rock slopes below.

Before heading out on the Grand Balcon Nord, if you’re fortunate to be here at lunch time, take a 15-minute downhill hike from the Plan de l’Aiguille cable car station to the Refuge du Plan de l’Aiguille for lunch. The view is unbeatable and so is the local Savoy cuisine. Anything with Reblochon cheese is sure to please!

After the hike, take the time to visit the Mer de Glace glacier before taking the train back down to Chamonix. If you’re up for all the stairs, that is. Due to years of receding, visitors must climb down hundreds of steps to reach the Mer de Glace from the Montenvers Train Station. An elevator is being built, so there may be an easier way to visit in 2024.

For other fantastic hikes around Chamonix, check out the Grand Balcon Sud, the hike to Lac Blanc, and the Petit Balcon Sud.

I’ve hiked the Grand Balcon Nord a few times, but it’s one of those hikes I can happily repeat. On a sunny day in Chamonix, the mountains are always calling, and who can resist the siren song of the Grand Balcon Nord? Not I, my friends, not I.

After a visit by cable car to the Aiguille du Midi, the rock spire located tantalizingly close to the summit of mighty Mont Blanc, I disembarked at Plan de l’Aiguille on the return trip. Plan de l’Aiguille is the cable car station located midway between the town of Chamonix and the pinnacle of the Aiguille du Midi. Most people simply transfer from one cable car to the next at this point, unless they plan to hike. A mountain hut (“refuge” in French) offers snacks amid superlative views. That’s no surprise — superlative views are inescapable on this route, a constant companion along the trail.

The trail signage may appear confusing when you first start the hike. There are so many options! To start the Grand Balcon Nord hike, look for signs pointing toward “Montenvers Mer de Glace”. This mountain train station above the Mer de Glace glacier marks the end of the hike.

Once you get going, it’s easy to follow, but there is one key trail junction to look out for. In the latter half of the hike, there will come a time when you are given two options to reach Montenvers. The trail to the right ascends a series of visible switchbacks, while the trail to the left appears gentle and easy. Don’t be fooled! The switchback trail to the right is the correct one, and easier in the long run.

I was fortunate to start my hike around lunch time, so before heading to Montenvers, I followed the signs to the signs to the Refuge du Plan de l’Aiguille. This charming mountain hut and restaurant is one of my favorite lunch stops in Chamonix. Wait to be seated at a shared table, then sit back and enjoy a hearty Savoyarde meal with a view.

Back on the trail after a satisfying lunch, I turned to head toward Montenvers. With Mont Blanc at my back, my eyes were drawn to the jagged peaks of the Mont Blanc Massif to my right. Peak after peak pierced the sky, like the spine of a great slumbering dragon.

Mountain terrain can be treacherous. The Grand Balcon Nord may be easy to reach by cable car, but this is a true mountain trail. The path is littered with rocks of all sizes, so despite the grand views above, I found myself frequently looking down, watching every step. I passed many others along the route, and was passed by many myself. It’s a popular route, enjoyed by everyone from slow, cautious hikers to high altitude trail runners.

After following the undulating trail for about an hour, I came to a crossroads. Two signs pointed toward Montenvers Mer de Glace. Although the one to the left promises a shorter hike, this trail is in fact much more challenging that it first appears (and no, I haven’t tried it, but I trust my Rick Steves guidebook). The best option for most is to follow the trail to the right, which immediately begins to ascend a series of switchbacks. Take it slow, and stop as needed to catch your breath and appreciate the fine view of Chamonix.

Beyond the switchbacks, the trail grows rockier and more exposed. Stone steps built into the hillside help hikers traverse the heights. Watch your step; it’s a long way down.

At this point, the view into the Chamonix Valley will take your breath away. Pause to take a look, then turn your eyes back on the trail as it passes through a massive jumble of broken rock, signs of avalanches past.

As I rounded the bend, the jagged peaks that surround the Mer de Glace came into sharp relief. I was now at the high point of the Grand Balcon Nord, picking my way across the stark stone trail toward some rather ominous-looking mountains. I’m sure it’s been said before, but the resemblance to Mordor is striking.

After crossing the rocks, the trail begins to wind its way down toward Montenvers. In the valley below, I caught sight of the Mer de Glace glacier snaking its way between the peaks. Sadly, this once grand glacier is shrinking rapidly. Now covered in rocks and debris, the Mer de Glace retreats up the valley, leaving an ever-lengthening moraine in its wake. Essentially a giant rock pile, a moraine is what remains behind as the glacier recedes.

Wildflowers blossomed along the path as I neared Montenvers, a small gathering of Alpine hotels and restaurants built out of the local stone. Waterfalls graced the cliffs on the opposite side of the valley. The scene was idyllic, even though I couldn’t help but feel pangs when I considered the receding Mer de Glace.

Shortly past this point, I reached the Montenvers Train Station. I had completed the Grand Balcon Nord in about two hours, and now it was time to return to Chamonix. I scanned my day pass to access the station platform and await the next train. The slow, 20-minute ride was the perfect way to unwind after a brisk hike, and gave me ample time to reflect on the experience. Few hikes are as grand as the Grand Balcon Nord. No matter how many times I hike it, I can’t wait to do it again.