Hiking the Grand Balcon Sud Trail in the French Alps

Looking for more incredible trails near Chamonix?
Take the cable car up the other side of the valley to Plan de l’Aiguille to hike the incomparable Grand Balcon Nord.

CURRENT INFO

You can find a map and reviews for the Grand Balcon Sud on the AllTrails website. For general trip planning, I recommend the Rick Steves France guidebook.

GOOD TO KNOW

• To start the hike, take the cable car from the town of Les Praz to La Flégère. From Flégère, follow signs to Brévent. Some signs may also say Grand Balcon Sud.
• You can also start the hike from the Planpraz cable car station above Chamonix, the midway point between Chamonix and Brévent. On this trip, I started at Planpraz and hiked toward Flégère, as described below. My preferred starting point, however, is Flégère, as the views are best when coming from that direction.
• If you plan to visit the Aiguille du Midi during your trip, the best deal is to buy a Mont Blanc multi-pass, which covers the cost of all local cable cars. You can buy passes for one or more days, depending on your plans. Although there is a small discount if you purchase passes online ahead of time, I prefer to buy my pass in person because the weather here is so changeable. It’s not uncommon for the cable car to the Aiguille du Midi to shut down because of high winds even on an otherwise beautiful day.
• Public toilets are available at cable car stations and cafés.
• The Grand Balcon Sud trail is frequently rough and rocky. There are a few brief steep sections, and some areas are quite exposed.
• Wear hiking boots or shoes with good tread. Hiking poles are recommended but not required.
• Bring layers, a rain jacket, suncreen, sunglasses, water, and snacks. Weather changes rapidly in the mountains. Even on a sunny day, rain clouds can roll in quickly. The temperature drops when the sun slips behind a cloud, and direct sunlight brings the risk of sunburn.
• Always follow Leave No Trace principles.

HIGHLIGHTS

The Grand Balcon Sud delights with sweeping Alpine vistas. For the best views of the Mont Blanc Massif, start from the Flégère cable car station above the town of Les Praz. Even on a cloudy day, the peekaboo views of the mountains are awe-inspiring. If you’re fortunate enough to visit on a sunny day — wow! I also admit I just love how rocky this trail is. That may not be a highlight for everyone, but for a short trail it brings a real sense of accomplishment.

THE KIDS’ TAKE

The Grand Balcon Sud is a pretty rough trail at times. Kids who are experienced hikers may enjoy the challenge, but it could be overwhelming for those not ready for rocky, exposed terrain. If you want something a little gentler, try the Grand Balcon Nord. True, the Grand Balcon Nord is no easy trail, but the rough and tumble Grand Balcon Sud really kicks things up a notch.

For those who go, prepare to take breaks as needed, both to catch your breath and to really soak in the experience. Stop in for a hot chocolate at a mountain café at the end of the trail and take a moment to take it all in. This is one hike the family won’t soon forget.

WHILE YOU’RE HERE

If you’re up for more hiking, consider adding on a visit to Lac Blanc. From La Flégère take the chair lift to Index, then follow the signs to Lac Blanc. On the return trip, follow the lower trail back down to Flégère. This is an extremely popular trail, especially in good weather, so I recommend getting and early start and hiking to Lac Blanc before continuing along the Grand Balcon Sud. Although short, it’s steep and rocky, so prepare accordingly.

Another option is to hike the Petit Balcon Sud to connect La Flégère and Chamonix. I did this after hiking to La Flégère, but be warned that the trail down from Flégère to the Petit Balcon Sud is quite steep and can be confusing. The Petit Balcon Sud can also be hiked directly from Chamonix and is a gentler, more forested route than either of the Grand Balcon trails. The highlight is a stop for lunch or a snack at Chalet de La Floria with a beautiful view.

If you have another day in Chamonix, I highly recommend hiking the Grand Balcon Nord following a visit to the Auiguille du Midi. The Aiguille du Midi is the highest point in Europe you can reach by cable car, and the chance to view the otherworldly glaciers from above is extraordinary. For the Grand Balcon Nord hike, check out my online review from my last visit.

Despite the fact that it was late July, the weather in Chamonix could fairly be described as dreary. Grey clouds hung in the sky, and now and then a spatter of raindrops fell to earth. Such is life in the mountains. Nevertheless, I was itching to go on a hike. The views may not be as spectacular as on a sunny day, but a cool, rainy hike brings its own pleasures.

I walked across town to the cable car station for Le Brévent. It was unexpectedly busy, and I had to wait in line for nearly 20 minutes to purchase my lift ticket. Fortunately, once I had my ticket, I was on the gondola within minutes, gliding gently uphill toward Planpraz.

Below the gondola, hikers huffed and puffed up the steep trail. Yes, you can hike to Planpraz if you’re so inclined (haha, “inclined”, get it?). The switchbacks are relentless, and so steep near the top that a cable has been attached to the rock, enabling hikers to pull themselves up as they go. If you prefer to save your energy for the Grand Balcon Sud, do as I did and take the cable car.

Soon we reached Planpraz. The clouds were high enough at this point to reveal a grand view of the Mont Blanc Massif across the valley. A large terrace sits perched at the edge of the overlook, just below La Bergerie restaurant. Although the restaurant wasn’t yet open, it’s still an enjoyable spot to relax and take in the view.

I headed up the hill from the cable car station. There are a few additional restaurants above La Bergerie, and this is also a popular place for paragliders to launch. With the possibility of storms looming overhead, no paragliders were out today, but there was an unusually high number of people. Considering the weather, I was especially puzzled by the crowds, then noticed that many were gathering near a small stage.

A concert? I wondered. In this weather? Sure enough, a quick online search for local events (and I do not advocate surfing the web while hiking, but my curiosity was piqued) revealed that a jazz concert was set to begin in half an hour.

As for me, it was time to hike. Above the Altitude 2000 restaurant and a smaller chairlift, signage pointed to the right toward La Flégère. Along the trail, hikers were decked out in a variety of rain gear, from high tech neon to clear plastic ponchos. A few raindrops fell as I worked my way down the rocky trail, but nothing too serious.

Before long, I reached a trail junction. There are many along the Grand Balcon Sud. Some point toward higher trails to small mountain lakes. To follow the Grand Balcon Sud, stay on the route to La Flégère. It can also be helpful to download a trail map, such as the one from AllTrails.

At this particular junction, the lone sign simply pointed toward the trail. There, in the direction of the sign, the trail meandered downhill at a relatively gentle incline. Another unmarked trail followed a wide, steep rocky chute. This, it seems, was the trail they wanted us to avoid, although a few hikers were making their way up at that very moment. I decided to stick with the “official” trail. It may be longer, but was otherwise easier.

It’s important to note that the Grand Balcon Sud, while short, is no beginner’s hike. The terrain is often rough and rocky and the trail is seldom level. There are only a few brief truly steep sections, but the ups and downs are constant. In a few places, the trail crosses swaths of broken rock. Hikers must carefully watch their step to avoid slipping or twisting an ankle.

Truth be told, I enjoy the rough and tumble nature of the Grand Balcon Sud. It’s invigorating, and more than enough to hold my interest on a cloudy day. I hiked along happily, pulling my hood up for the occasional rain shower. The trail led briefly through the trees, then back through open meadows dotted with huckleberries. I paused to pluck a few ripe berries from the low-lying bushes for a tasty Alpine snack.

The clouds were lower now. Mont Blanc coyly hid behind a blanket of grey, demurely revealing a glimpse of her glaciers.

By this time, I was more than halfway through the hike, but that didn’t mean the Grand Balcon Sud was letting me off easy. At one point, the trail crossed a wide rock field that covered the sloping hillside. I picked my way carefully from stone to stone, surprised to cross paths with a few other hikers in, shall we say, less suitable footgear.

After crossing the rock fields, the trail dipped into the forest again. A short but steep series of steps squeezed between the boulders. On the other side lay more views of Chamonix, nestled snugly in the valley below Mont Blanc.

As I rounded a corner, I caught sight of the Flégère gondola station; my final destination was in sight. After one last uphill climb, I was there. Other hikers gathered around the snack bar and terrace near the top of the cable car. La Flégère is the starting point for several popular hikes, including the Grand Balcon Sud. Many also hike form here to Lac Blanc, or take the chairlift from Flégère to Index to start the hike. Other routes follow the higher mountain ridges between Flégère and Brévent.

Although I had reached Flégère, I was not yet done hiking for the day. True, it’s easy to take the gondola down to Les Praz, then return by bus to Chamonix. But why do that when you can hike? Yes, I chose to hike, and I’ll tell you about it soon. For now, I took a moment to enjoy the last views along the Grand Balcon Sud. Regardless of the weather, this is one trail that doesn’t disappoint.