Hiking the Gemsenweg to Männlichen in the Swiss Alps

Looking for some fun hikes that go beyond the Gemsenweg?
Follow your hike up to Männlichen with a nice easy stroll on the stunning Panorama Trail. Back in Wengen, the trail to Leiterhorn offers a moderately easy hike to a viewpoint overlooking Interlaken.

CURRENT INFO

Maps and other information for the Gemsenweg (called the Wengen-Männlichen trail) are available on AllTrails. If you’re planning a trip to Switzerland that includes the Lauterbrunnen Valley, I recommend Rick Steves’ Switzerland guidebook.

I HIKED IT

July 2023, about 2.5* of hiking time to reach the Männlichen cable car station

*I recommend allowing at least 3 hours for the hike

A QUICK TRAIL SIGNAGE TUTORIAL

Switzerland has excellent trail signage, but it can get confusing when there are so many options. Here’s what to look for when hiking the Gemsenweg:

• Stand with your back to the train station in the main square in Wengen. Turn left and follow the main street uphill. As you head out of town, follow the yellow trail signs pointing toward “Männlichen”.
• Once you are out of town and on the true trail, brown signs labeled “Gemsenweg” show the way. You’ll continue to see signs for Männlichen as well, but keep in mind that there are a few different routes. If you see more than one option, follow Gemsenweg to stay on this route.
• As you near the top, you may notice that signs for the Gemsenweg no longer point toward Männlichen, and only point downhill. No worries, just stay on the trail to Männlichen. Since the Gemsenweg is the name of a trail (not a destination), signs near the end of the route are meant for those brave souls heading down from Männlichen to Wengen.

GOOD TO KNOW

• The Gemsenweg works best as a one-way hike. I recommend starting in Wengen and hiking uphill to Männlichen. Sure, it’s tough, but I can’t imagine the wear and tear my knees would sustain going downhill.
• This hike starts in the town of Wengen in Switzerland’s Lauterbrunnen Valley and ends at Männlichen on the mountain ridge above Wengen. Trains run approximately every half hour between the town of Lauterbrunnen in the valley below and Wengen, and the trip takes only 12 minutes. Check schedules online ahead of time.
• The Gemsenweg is open during the summer season. Specific opening and closing times will vary depending on weather.
• Live cam footage at the cable car station in Wengen shows the current view from Männlichen. Take note, however, that by the time you successfully climb the Gemsenweg, the weather may have changed completely.
• From Männlichen, you can continue your hike along the much easier (and still spectacular) Panorama Trail to Kleine Scheidegg. From Kleine Scheidegg, you can take the train back to Wengen. If you’re up for even more hiking, you can also hike from Kleine Scheidegg to Wengen. I recommend this route via Bigernalp.
• If you don’t want to hike the Panorama Trail, you can take the cable car from Männlichen back to Wengen. Check schedules online in advance.
• Gemsenweg is German for “way of the chamois”. In case you’re unfamiliar with chamois, I’ve included a photo of one below. These small mountain antelope climb and jump their way across the rockiest reaches of the Swiss Alps. I think that tells you what you need to know about this trail!

• Good hiking boots or shoes are a must, and trekking poles are recommended. The Gemsenweg is often rocky, sometimes muddy, and always steep. Trekking poles can be rented from local sports shops.
• Bring layers, including a rain jacket. The weather can change quickly in the Swiss Alps.
• Bring water. The local tap water is safe to drink, so you can fill your water bottle at your hotel. You may find places to refill at Männlichen.
• Restrooms are available in the restaurant at Männlichen. There is also a port-a-potty if you continue along the Panorama Trail, and more restrooms at Kleine Scheidegg.
• There are restaurant and quick-service food options available at both Männlichen and further along in Kleine Scheidegg if you decide to hike the Panorama Trail.
• My favorite lunch stop along the Panorama Trail is Restaurant Grindelwaldblick. Their rösti can’t be beat!
• Always follow Leave No Trace principles.

HIGHLIGHTS

The Gemsenweg isn’t for everyone, but if you enjoy trails less traveled and the satisfaction and pride that comes with a good steep climb, this could be the trail for you. There’s nothing quite like the feeling of peering down into the valley below from the ridgetop and thinking, “I hiked that!”

The Gemsenweg starts off in the forest, and believe it or not, these rocky forest trails are some of the toughest sections of this hike. The latter half opens up to expansive views across the Lauterbrunnen Valley and surrounding peaks. It’s magnificent, but remember that you can get amazing views without all the blood, sweat, and tears by taking the cable car from Wengen to Männlichen. But hey, where’s the fun in that?

THE KIDS’ TAKE

I don’t recommend the Gemsenweg for kids. There, I said it. The trail is relentlessly steep, follows some very exposed ridges, and may feel more like cruel punishment than a fun family outing. With that said, teens who are avid hikers and want to prove their mettle may enjoy the challenge.

With younger kids (older kids too, for that matter), I recommend taking the cable car from Wengen to Männlichen and following the Panorama Trail to Kleine Scheidegg. If the kids are looking for a thrill, pay a few extra francs to take the “Royal Ride” on top of the cable car. The view will be unforgettable!

WHILE YOU’RE HERE

After making it all the way to Männlichen, take some time to enjoy what you’ve accomplished. A great follow up to hiking the Gemsenweg is the nice, easy Panorama Trail, which winds gently downhill from Männlichen to Kleine Scheidegg. The entire hike is one fantastic Swiss Alpine view after another. Just before Kleine Scheidegg, stop at Restaurant Grindelwaldblick for a well-deserved hearty Swiss lunch. There is also a quick-service restaurant in Männlichen, as well as a fantastic playground.

From Kleine Scheidegg, you can take the train back to Wengen. Or, if you’re up for even more hiking, try the spectacular trail to Wengen via Bigernalp.

Below Wengen in the Lauterbrunnen Valley, don’t miss the chance to stroll the valley floor and visit Trümmelbach Falls. For a full day of fun, include a trip up the other side of the valley to Gimmelwald and Mürren, and take a cable car to the top of the Schilthorn for 360-degree views. For more information about how to visit these places as part of a longer loop hike, check out my post on Hiking in Switzerland’s Beautiful Lauterbrunnen Valley.

In Wengen, the Coop grocery store near the train station offers good sandwiches, prepared salads, seasonal local fruit, and much more. I highly recommend the Swiss strawberries in summer! For dinner, I recommend the pizza at Ristorante Da Sina.

Looking for another hike from Wengen? Maybe something a little (OK, a lot) easier? Take the trail to Leiterhorn, a lesser-known hike with to a beautiful viewpoint overlooking Interlaken.

Although I had taken the cable car from Wengen to Männlichen many times, I couldn’t help thinking I was missing something. In recent years, I’ve made it my goal to hike beyond the typical trails in the Lauterbrunnen Valley, and I knew it was possible to hike from Wengen to Männlichen. Was I up for the challenge?

I decided to give it a go one morning in Wengen. Passing the cable car station, I continued walking on the main road through town as it began its uphill climb. Near the end of town, a sign on my right pointed toward a paved path leading up an even steeper hill. I slowed my pace. The climb was just beginning.

When you first leave Wengen, it can feel a little disorienting, as there are several side trails and roads. Just follow the signs toward Männlichen, and also be on the lookout for any brown signs labelled “Gemsenweg”. You can also download the AllTrails map ahead of time to guide you. As I left Wengen behind, the signs pointed toward a narrow dirt trail leading past a picnic area. No more paved paths on this route!

Well, first there were a few more road crossings. I also passed the town dump. Even in the Swiss Alps, people need someplace to deposit their garbage. But soon the trail led into the forest, and the sights and sounds of modern civilization disappeared. The trail also got much tougher — just look at those roots! With my destination still far above me, this was only the beginning.

As a matter of fact, even here in the woods I hadn’t left civilization totally behind. In one area, spray paint marked trees scheduled to be cut, probably due to disease or damage. Some had already been felled, and I noticed that one worker had gotten a little creative with their chainsaw, carving a whimsical mushroom along the trail.

I kept going, aiming to maintain a slow but steady pace. The Gemsenweg is a nearly constant uphill grind, and soon the roots were replaced by rocks. Lots and lots of sharp, jagged rocks.

On and on and on I climbed. Although the Gemsenweg is only three miles long, I knew this would take longer than a typical three-mile hike. I tried not to look at the AllTrails map too frequently, and instead kept my focus on each slow, plodding step. At last, the trail broke free from the forest, and I was greeted by a fantastic panorama of the Swiss Alps. To my right, the mighty Jungfrau towered above the rest, while in the distance the Breithorn pointed skyward.

From this point onward, the mountains were always in sight. That is to say, they were there whenever I took a moment to look up. Much of the time, my eyes were focused on my feet, so I could safely navigate the narrow dirt path. It wasn’t as rocky as the forest trail, but there were a lot of steps, not to mention some very steep drop-offs.

At this point, a series of switchbacks on the Gemsenweg lead up to the avalanche barrier “forest” that covers the steep hillside below Männlichen. Avalanche fences and other barriers help stabilize the snow in winter, decreasing the likelihood of dangerous avalanches crashing down the mountainside into Wengen. You can see the little Alpine town directly below the fences in the photo above, with the town of Lauterbrunnen nestled at the bottom of the valley.

It was fascinating to walk amongst the fences that I have seen so often from the Lauterbrunnen Valley. Signage along the trail provided further information about these barriers, in both German and English. And the views just kept getting better.

The trail also got muddier. I didn’t have trekking poles, and had to step very cautiously across the muck. While trees lined the trail in a few areas, in many places the edge of the trail was fully exposed. As I picked my way carefully along the trail, I noticed a runner approaching from further down. I stood aside as best as I could to allow him to pass. Without slackening his pace, he continued up the trail to Männlichen. Now, that’s impressive!

By this time, my knees were crying out for mercy. I couldn’t imagine even attempting to run. Not only would my body have rebelled, but at this point the trail was even more exposed. I kept my eyes ahead, avoiding looking down from such a dizzying height. The cable car passed overhead, close enough for me to make out the faces of those on board. I was nearly there.

Minutes later, I crossed the ridgeline at Männlichen and looked around in awe. I did it! Dozens of visitors milled around the trails and cable car station, oblivious to my triumph. But what did they know? They took the cable car, while I used my own two feet. Now on to hike the Royal Walk and the Panorama Trail!

Yes, despite my aching knees, my hike was not yet done. The Gemsenweg got me off to a great start, and I would do it again… maybe. I mean, of course I would do it again! Maybe not for a few more years, but someday the Way of the Chamois is sure to call to me again, and I am sure to follow.