Southern Oregon’s Illinois River: Swimming Holes & a Swinging Bridge

The Illinois River is a hidden gem in southern Oregon, visited mostly by locals who fondly call it “The Illy.”

It’s a dream come true for those in search of the perfect summer swimming hole,
and this guide will provide you with everything you need to know
to spend an amazing day exploring the Illy for yourself!

LOCATION

The Illinois River is a nationally designated Wild and Scenic River located southwest of Grants Pass off Highway 199 in Southern Oregon. The turnoff for Illinois River Road is in the small town of Selma, where you can access a gas station and small grocery store.

WE WERE THERE

August 2020, spending a full day checking out Eight Dollar Mountain, the Swinging Bridge, and relaxing and swimming in the Illy

WHAT TO BRING

If you visit in summer, bring sunscreen, shade hats, and water. Whatever you do, don’t forget the water — there is no potable water available at any of these locations! In late August, we encountered no issues with bugs, but it’s still a good idea to pack bug spray (you never know). What else? Beach towels, swimsuits, inflatable swim toys, camp chairs, picnic supplies, and a garbage bag. Prepare to pack everything out with you; there are no garbage bins. I’m happy to say that when we visited it was quite clean, but I’ve read that garbage has sometimes been a problem. Please do your part to keep this special place clean and pristine for the native wildlife and your fellow humans.

POISON OAK

Yes, poison oak is here, hiding in the brush almost anywhere you care to look. The oils produced by this noxious plant can cause severe itching and rashes if you come into contact with it. Avoid it by staying on trails, and don’t brush up against the plant life. For those unfamiliar with this infamous plant, I’ve included a photo below. You may have heard the saying, “leaves of three, let it be,” referring to the fact that poison oak leaves grow in groups of three. Please note, however, that it changes in appearance throughout the year. The green leaves of spring deepen to red in the fall, then fall off in winter, leaving behind bare sticks that are difficult to spot amidst the surrounding brush.

CURRENT INFO

It’s hard to find much information about swimming in Oregon’s Illinois River online, although a Google search leads to a few good personal blog posts. The official website with the U.S. Forest Service doesn’t offer much, but it covers the basics.

Please note that this area was ravaged by forest fires in 2018. Plenty of greenery remains, especially along Illinois River Road, but you will also see blackened tree trunks covering scarred hillsides that are now in the process of recovery.

GOOD TO KNOW

There was no fee to park along the Illinois River in 2020. A proposed day use fee of $5 may take effect in 2021 at certain locations, such as Sixmile and Store Gulch. You can still park for free and access the river elsewhere along the road, but keep in mind that many of these spots don’t offer any facilities. The Illinois River Road is narrow and winding, with periodic pull-outs allowing cars to safely pass. Shortly after the parking area for Store Gulch, the pavement ends. Be prepared for an extremely bumpy ride on a many-potholed dirt road to reach Swinging Bridge. The ruts on this road, particularly near the end, are unforgiving! Amazingly, we saw a few small hatchbacks that made the trip. Personally, I only recommend it for vehicles with reasonably high clearance and good suspension.

Please also note that the Illinois is truly a wild and scenic river, and development here is minimal. There are no accessible trails to the river. In some places, getting to the water involves only a couple minutes of walking over some clunky rocks, while in other cases trails are steep with even steeper drop-offs. For an accessible trail, try the boardwalk at Eight Dollar Mountain. It isn’t along the river, but gives you a close look at the region’s unique plant life. There are also some great views of the river from the road, enabling all to enjoy the natural beauty of the canyon. You may spy some historic remains , such as the old Store Gulch guard station cabin, built in the 1930s.

HIGHLIGHTS

For a summer swim, you can’t beat the Illinois River! It’s gorgeous, with emerald waters flanked by craggy cliffs and forested slopes. And if that’s not enough to lure you, take note: the water here is pleasantly cool, sometimes even warm. We Northwesterners are accustomed to frigid rivers fed by alpine snowmelt, but the Illy is a welcome exception. Here, you can while the day away enjoying languid pools warmed by the summer sun. With multiple swimming spots to choose from, it’s easy to spend an entire day exploring.

THE KIDS’ TAKE

Now this was a vacation! After two weeks on the road, the boys were ready for a day of pure play, no “real” hiking involved. We spent hours swimming and playing in the river together. J even made a little froggy friend at Store Gulch, whom he named Fred. We still talk about Fred fondly.

WHILE YOU’RE HERE

There is more to the Illinois River than swimming holes. For something really wild, get off the beaten track and hike into the Kalmiopsis Wildlands. Here, the Illinois River plunges through deep gorges, leaving roads far behind. Multi-day hiking treks and white water rafting await the adventurous, but even day hikers can get a good taste of the wilderness.

Looking to stay overnight? The U.S. Forest Service manages numerous small, undeveloped campgrounds along the Illinois River and elsewhere in the region. If you prefer a campground with a few more amenities, try nearby Lake Selmac Campground. While Lake Selmac itself is only so-so, the campground is clean, shady, and well-kept, with flush toilets and showers.

The most famous sight in the region is Oregon Caves National Monument. Take a guided tour of the caves and go for a pleasant hike through the evergreen forests. In Grants Pass, you can explore another of Oregon’s many wild and scenic rivers, the Rogue. Jet boat excursions, such as those offered by Hellgate, are a popular way to add a little excitement to your trip!

This guide covers a number of places to stop along the Illinois River, starting with Sixmile, the site closest to Selma,
and continuing downriver to end with Swinging Bridge.
I’ve also included the Eight Dollar Mountain Botanical Wayside, a worthwhile stop nearby
for those interested in learning about the region’s rich plant life.

EIGHT DOLLAR MOUNTAIN

Before heading into the Illinois River Valley, we took a brief detour to visit the Eight Dollar Mountain Botanical Wayside. Located just a few miles off Highway 199 on Eight Dollar Road, the wayside features a short, accessible boardwalk trail highlighting the unique flora of Eight Dollar Mountain. Because of the area’s serpentine soil, plants here are specially adapted to survive, and it’s considered one of the most botanically diverse regions in the state of Oregon. A vast array of wildflowers bloom here during the summer, many of them endemic to this microhabitat. Signs along the boardwalk helpfully identify the flowers and explain the nature of the serpentine soil. Peering through the pines, you may discover the rusted remains of old mining equipment, abandoned with the closure of a small mine shaft many years ago.

We visited in late August, after the end of wildflower season. Fortunately, the Darlingtonia, or pitcher plants, were still in bloom. These distinctive carnivorous plants are also commonly known as cobra lilies. It was a Saturday morning, and no one else was there. Good thing, too — there are only two parking spots at the trailhead and one of them is an accessible spot. If these are taken, you may find parking elsewhere along the road. A vault toilet is also available at the trailhead.

SIXMILE

Sixmile is the first major swimming hole along this stretch of the Illinois River, and it’s a great option for families. Above the river is a large parking area with covered picnic shelters (handy on a hot day if you don’t want to lug all your picnic supplies down to the river) and vault toilets. The trail to the river is short, about a five-minute walk, and starts off paved, but the final stretch is a bit rough and sandy.

We stopped here briefly on our drive out to Swinging Bridge. The vibe was easy going and the water warm. It’s quite popular, so the prime beach spots were already claimed. The shore here is often rocky and narrow, but intrepid explorers may find a secluded spot by wandering further along the stream. A small, four-site campground is located downstream, suitable for tent camping only. Vault toilets are available at the campground, but there’s no potable water and you must pack out all garbage. It’s far enough from the day use area that you won’t find many people there, perfect for those seeking a quiet riverside experience.

DIVERS HOLE

We didn’t have time to stop by Divers Hole, but I caught a good view of it from the road, and it looks incredible! As you can guess from the name, it’s yet another deep jewel-toned swimming hole offering ample room to lounge on the rocky riverbank. There are no toilets or other facilities here, and only roadside parking is available. Because it’s a bit more challenging to access, it appears to draw fewer crowds than Sixmile and Store Gulch.

STORE GULCH

Shortly past Divers Hole comes the biggie — Store Gulch! It’s also the last official stop before the pavement ends. This swimming hole is gorgeous, and you’ll be treated to a glorious view as you make your way down the trail. There is a small parking area at the trailhead, along with a vault toilet. Plenty of extra parking is available along the road, and believe me, it gets packed! Before you grab your beach bag, please note that the trail to the river is steep with an unprotected drop-off. With a loose gravel surface and no hand rails, it can be easy to slip, especially when carrying a large load. Please use appropriate caution, and if this isn’t the trail for you, look for another place to access the river safely.

Despite the precarious trail, this place is extremely popular, so perhaps not the place to come if you’re seeking solitude. We arrived on a Saturday afternoon, and a large party of young adults appeared to be just getting started near the cliff jumping rock. If you want to avoid this kind of scene, I recommend coming early in the day or walking upriver to find a quieter spot. Fortunately, Store Gulch is a sizeable swimming area, so it’s pretty easy to spread out and avoid any noisy groups. Weekdays may also be a little more mellow.

Tent campers can stay at the Store Gulch Campground, located a short distance downstream from the swimming hole with its own river access. Like Sixmile, Store Gulch Campground is small and has only vault toilets, no potable water, and all garbage must be packed out.

We didn’t have to go far to find our own spot on the pebbly beach. Here, J discovered a friendly frog in the shallow water. This frog was either quite friendly indeed, or too scared to leap away. He hung around for some time, letting J gently pet him with a single finger. J was so enamored of the frog that he named him Fred. Afraid that someone might step on poor Fred, J built him a small stone house in the shallows. Whether or not Fred ever went inside his new home is unknown, but it was a thoughtful gesture.

Besides the sizable swimming hole, the other big draw here is the jumping rock. Jutting out over the deepest part of the river, this giant boulder is perfectly positioned for swimmers to take a 20-foot dive into the shimmering water below. Michael, emboldened after cliff jumping at Myrtle Beach near Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park, eagerly joined the line-up to take the plunge. J, after being informed by his parents that no, he was not yet a strong enough swimmer to jump from a 20-foot precipice, found another spot about five feet above the water. He jumped joyfully from this perch over and over, until he was so exhausted that I had to help him swim back to shore. Pure bliss!

IRON RING

Iron Ring is another spot we saw from the road, but didn’t have time to visit. There are a few official parking spots, and the river is easier to access here than at Store Gulch. Although this is a designated picnic area, there are no picnic tables, but there is a vault toilet. It’s a quieter spot, with a smaller swimming hole.

SWINGING BRIDGE

And now, the grand finale! If you make it this far, give yourself a hand. By this point, the road is very rough, especially if you head down to the lower parking area across the river. Be prepared for some painful bumps and watch carefully for oncoming cars. You will be rewarded! At 60 feet up, Swinging Bridge gracefully spans the Illinois River as it twists through a rocky ravine. Below, deep, jade green water beckons. Even if you don’t swim, take a moment to soak in the view.

There are two ways to access the river at Swinging Bridge. The first option is to turn left off the main road into a parking area above the bridge. From there, you can hike to Swinging Bridge via a steep, bumpy trail. Follow the trail across the bridge, then continue down to the lower parking lot near the water. Be mindful that this trail is rough and rocky, and the bridge is not recommended for those with a fear of heights. The other option is to drive down the increasingly steep, deeply rutted road to the lower lot. Despite the terrible drive, most visitors seem to prefer this option, probably because it’s much closer to the river. In our case, we split up and tried both routes. Michael and the boys hiked from the upper lot, while I drove to the lower lot to meet them.

You may be wondering, how did this so-called Swinging Bridge come to be? The answer lies with Camp McCaleb, a former Boy Scout camp situated across the Illinois River. Normally, the camp is accessible by crossing the low concrete bridge, but spring floods can easily overrun it. In 1960, the wooden suspension bridge you see today was built to provide an alternate way to reach the camp. And yes, it really does sway in the breeze. The planks on the bridge are built with some “wiggle room”, so expect to feel them shift a bit under your feet. Four-year-old T loved it! Michael, on the other hand, was thankful he only had to cross it once.

For my part, I wandered up from the river to venture partway across the bridge, and that was enough for me! To reach it, a steep stairway clings to the side of the rock, and I couldn’t help noticing that some of the treads showed signs of wear. Use caution, and don’t let young children come here alone. Apparently, daredevils sometimes jump from Swinging Bridge, but I can’t in good conscience recommend it. Sixty feet is a long way up, and the water below may be deep, but is it deep enough? Stick to the rocks along the shore, where a few spots offer a comparatively safer place to jump. By comparatively safer, I mean around 25 feet — still too high for me!

Once our crew all made it to the riverside parking lot, we pulled out the picnic and beach gear and set up our base. There is a small, pebbly beach, but most of the shoreline is rocky. The water here is shallow, warm, and ideal for splashing about with young children. On the opposite shore the rocks are larger, and can be quite slippery. Upstream, where the river flows under the bridge, the water deepens considerably. Experienced swimmers and paddlers can round the bend to find an abundance of hidden coves where the water shifts from green to blue.

We spent a few hours at Swinging Bridge in the early afternoon. It wasn’t as crowded as Store Gulch, and there was more than enough room for everyone to share the water comfortably. The only downside was the small size of the beach. But no matter, we would come back here in a heartbeat if only it weren’t so far from home! As it was, our day on the Illy was indeed one for the memory books.

Do you have any favorite swimming holes to share? Do tell!
And if you’ve never been to the Illinois River Valley, I hope you’re inspired to check it out. Happy swimming!