Swimming at Myrtle Beach in the California Redwoods


Looking for more great places to explore in the Redwoods?
Take a hike through Stout Grove or head to Enderts Beach. Check out my Guide to Redwood National & State Parks for more ideas.


LOCATION
  • The Myrtle Beach swimming hole is located on the Smith River right off Highway 199 below the Nels Christensen Memorial Bridge.
CURRENT INFO
WE WERE THERE
  • August 2020, spending an hour or two swimming and playing in the sand

kids playing on the Smith River Northern California Redwoods
play time at the Myrtle Beach Swimming Hole

SWIM

On a hot day, or even a reasonably warm one, swimming at Myrtle Beach is like a little slice of heaven. The water is cold and clear, free of weeds and slippery rocks. A shallow sandy area near the beach is ideal for kids to splash around in, but keep a close watch; the riverbed drops off steeply not too far from shore. Opposite the beach, a massive rock is a popular spot for cliff jumping. As always, use caution when jumping. With a clean vertical drop into clear, deep water, this is a solid jump-off point for experienced swimmers who want a little thrill.

I have a feeling this place can get crowded. We arrived shortly after lunch on a weekday, and were pleased to find only a handful of others at the beach. Over the next few hours, slowly but steadily, more people arrived. A lot of locals come here, so expect late afternoon crowds on sunny weekdays, and probably all day on warm weekends. Fortunately, there is space to spread out if you don’t mind being on the rocky section of the beach. The swimming hole itself is fairly large, but you may have to wait in line to cliff jump.

family swimming at the Myrtle Beach swimming hole Northern California
going for a swim at the Myrtle Beach swimming hole

PADDLE

Bring inflatables or kayaks if you have them (and if you’re comfortable taking them down the trail); the calm water here is perfect for floating. In fact there are many spots on the Smith River suitable for floating or easy paddling, but be sure to check on conditions ahead of time. The Smith is also known for its rapids, which should be reserved for experienced white water paddlers or a guided trip. Stick with the lower Smith River for the smoothest water.


GOOD TO KNOW
  • There is no fee to park at Myrtle Beach. The parking area is small and located just west of the turnoff for South Fork Road, which leads to Stout Grove.
  • A vault toilet is available midway down the trail to the beach.
  • The trail to the swimming hole is short but steep and very rocky, so wear shoes with good traction.
vault toilet along the trail to Myrtle Beach
the vault toilet halfway down the trail to Myrtle Beach

HIGHLIGHTS

The deep emerald water elicits an immediate, “Wow!” when you first arrive at Myrtle Beach. It’s a gorgeous place to swim, float, or find a semi-secluded spot on shore to read and enjoy the view. For those who like cliff jumping, Myrtle Beach offers a prime spot for a dive.

jumping rock Myrtle Beach Swimming Hole Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park
the jumping rock above the jade green water at Myrtle Beach

THE KIDS’ TAKE

What kid doesn’t love a beach, no matter how small? Mine were more than happy to spend some time here and take a break from hiking. The sparkling green water was initially a big draw, but J found it a little on the cold side (kids with a higher tolerance for chilly water will have no such concerns).


WHILE YOU’RE HERE

Myrtle Beach is located near Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park, and convenient to many of the highlights. Just across the Smith River, follow Howland Hill Road to Stout Grove, arguably one of California’s most beautiful redwood groves. The trail there is easy and accessible. Stout Grove is at its best when golden mid-afternoon light sifts through the redwoods, so it’s a great follow-up to an early afternoon visit to Myrtle Beach. Across the road from Myrtle Beach is the Myrtle Creek Trail, offering a lovely, quiet ramble along the stream. In need of a good meal? The Hiouchi Cafe is only a few miles west of Myrtle Beach on Highway 199.

There is so much more to explore in the Redwoods. For a great overview, check out my Guide to the Redwood National & State Parks.


Our Experience


When we left our campsite at Elk Prairie and headed north that morning, fog drifted across the meadows and seeped through the redwoods. Gradually, patches of blue sky appeared above. By the time we settled in for lunch at the Hiouchi Cafe, the sun had banished the clouds completely. It was perfect weather for a swim.

Fortunately, I came across Myrtle Beach when researching for our trip, so I knew just where to go. Well, almost. My eyes were peeled for for any sign indicating we had arrived, and I initially stopped too soon. Continuing on, the sign for Myrtle Beach appeared suddenly on our right, at the edge of a small gravel parking lot.

Since it was early afternoon on a weekday, only a few other cars were there. We grabbed our beach bag and headed down the trail. The walk to Myrtle Beach isn’t far, probably no more than a quarter of a mile, but it’s gravelly and steep. Wear shoes with good traction, especially when carrying supplies. Halfway down, we passed a vault toilet, conveniently located so that you don’t have to hike all the way back up if you need to use it.

trail to Myrtle Beach Smith River California kids
the rocky trail to and from Myrtle Beach

Upon arriving at the river, we were immediately struck by the translucent green water shimmering in the sunlight. A small sandy beach lay to our left, right at the edge of the wide swimming hole. To the right, the river narrowed and quickened, rippling over the rocky streambed. While this rockier area doesn’t give you direct access to the swimming hole, it’s still a great place for beachgoers to spread out when it gets crowded, or for those just looking to set up a chair in the sun. If you’re comfortable crossing the river, another small, sandy beach lies on the opposite shore.

Smith River California Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park summer
the rocky area beyond the swimming hole

We were lucky enough to find a spot on the sand, tucked away near the shallow end of the natural pool. Perfect! We were all eager to change into our suits and get in the water at this point, although Michael waited for me to test it out first.

“How cold is it?” he asked.

“Not bad,” I replied. In the shallows, it was almost warm. But the shallows drop away quickly about fifteen feet from shore, and the change in temperature was sudden. It was cold, but refreshing, and I adjusted quickly.

“You’ve got to come out here!” I called to Michael. “It’s amazing!”

Michael’s transition took a little more time, but soon he was swimming freely while I turned my attention to the kids. T loved floating in the water, but J, after going for a brief swim, decided he preferred sticking to the warmer shallows. They both busied themselves digging joyfully in the sand.

Myrtle Beach Smith River California kids family fun swimming hole
beach time at the swimming hole

In the meantime, Michael had made it to The Rock. The Rock, in this case, is a massive boulder perfectly positioned for jumping into the iridescent water below. It’s not a crazy high jump (I estimate it’s between 15 and 20 feet), but I’ve reached the point in life where I’m no longer interested in leaping from high places. Michael, however, was going to jump.

Myrtle Beach cliff jumping swimming hole northern California Redwoods
the jumping rock at Myrtle Beach

Or was he? Back on the opposite shore, we waited… and waited… and waited. Determined to capture the momentous occasion on video I started the camera… then stopped…. then started again (he was going to do it!)… then stopped again. Finally, finally, I started again and – he jumped! And let out a loud whoop, too! By this time, the kids had turned back to their play, and I’m not sure they even saw their dad make the leap. But we had the video to prove it!

After a few hours, I convinced the boys it was time to go. It was getting more crowded at the swimming hole, and I felt our time was up. Besides, we had a date with Stout Grove, and I didn’t want to miss it. Still, I was equally glad not to have missed out on this lovely spot. Myrtle Beach was just the escape we needed.


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