Kapuzinerberg: Hiking in the Historic Heart of Salzburg, Austria

Looking to explore more of the outdoors in Salzburg?
Head across the river to Mönchsberg for more incredible views.

GOOD TO KNOW

• Kapuzinerberg is within walking distance of many sights and hotels in the heart of Salzburg. If you, like me, are a tourist here, it’s often easiest to reach the trail on foot.
• Many bus routes stop near Kapuzinerberg. Look for routes that stop at Makartplatz/Theatergasse or Mozartsteg on the north side of the Salzach River. Other stops in the area also work well.
• There is no public WC (toilet) along the trail.
• Bring water. There is one fountain along the trail, but it wasn’t running when I hiked here. As always, it’s better to be prepared.
• The main trail across Kapuzinerberg is paved. Stick with this path for the easiest route, but keep in mind that some sections are still quite steep.
• For more of a “hike”, veer off the paved path. Expect stairs and a rough trail at times. Closed shoes with good traction are ideal.
• Not all trail junctions are signed, but Google Maps is very helpful for finding your way. I regularly pulled out my phone to determine which route to follow.
• You may see some “warning” signs along the trail. These signs indicate that the trail is not maintained in winter and that hiking is at your own risk, but do not mean that the trail is closed.
• There are many benches located along the trail, perfect for picnicking or soaking in the views.
• Always follow Leave No Trace principles. There are a few garbage bins along the trail, but be prepared to pack everything out with you if needed.

HIGHLIGHTS

Kapuzinerberg is best known for its gorgeous viewpoints. Although it’s a steep climb, the reward comes quickly after you climb the initial hill to the terrace below the cloister. Many turn around at this point, but those who venture further will find themselves surrounded by verdant forest far from the tourist throngs.

THE KIDS’ TAKE

No kids this time, as they’re enjoying time with the grandparents in Oregon. If they were here, I’d doubtlessly hear some complaints about the steep climbs, but it’s a great way to burn off any extra energy. Besides, who doesn’t enjoy a castle view? The wooded trails are a joy to explore, and you just might stumble across a few forest forts as you wander.

WHILE YOU’RE HERE

First things first, did I mention there is a gummi bear shop located right next to the trailhead? For me, a visit to Bärenland is a must on every trip to Salzburg. There are flavors to suit every palate, but keep in mind the shop is cash only.

Pedestrian Linzer Gasse (Linzer Alley) offers a plethora of eateries. For something casual, I like BioBurgerMeister, which offers a variety of veggie burger choices in addition to beef and serves delicious French fries. For ice cream, both Eis Greissler and Gelateria La Romana are excellent. La Romana is located downhill from the entrance to Kapuzinerberg, while Eis Greissler is further up the street away from the river.

If you’re up for more urban hiking, head across the Salzach River to Old Town, where you can hike to the Hohensalzburg Fortress and across another of Salzburg’s famous hills, the Mönchsberg.

I didn’t set out to hike Kapuzinerberg. Initially, I was only looking for a scenic spot to enjoy my chicken doner kebab. Knowing that Kapuzinerberg is home to many good benches with even better views, it was simply the logical choice. After finding the arched entrance along Linzer Gasse, I steeled myself for the steep climb ahead. It was, surely, a small price to pay for dinner in so fine a setting.

Up the hill I charged, passing the stations of the cross before rounding the bend that leads to the the cloister. Unsurprisingly, I was not alone. The terrace here is the most popular destination on Kapuzinerberg, but I was looking for a little more solitude, so onward I went.

I continued along the paved path through the cloister grounds, passing through the archway at the far end. Not far beyond this point, a dirt trail branched off to the right. Why not? I might as well give this trail a go. The first bench I passed was already occupied by a woman talking animatedly on her phone. Still seeking solitude, I walked on.

Soon, I caught a glimpse of the Hohensalzburg Fortress through the trees. There was no bench, but a low rock would have to do. That doner kebab was calling my name! Taking a seat, I savored my simple dinner with a view. Of course, as luck would have it, I later came across another bench, this time unoccupied, not much further down the trail.

At this point I had a decision to make. After all, I had already accomplished my mission: dinner on Kapuzinerberg. Check! But since I was already here… why not explore a little further? How could I resist?

Soon, I was following the trail deeper into the forest. Twisting and turning, it led to a long series of stairs built into the hillside along a fortified wall. During the Middle Ages, such fortifications were built throughout Salzburg to protect the burgeoning town. In the late 1500s, Capuchin monks (Kapuziner in German) built their cloister here, giving the hill the name it still bears today, Kapuzinerberg.

Eventually, I reached the top of the seemingly endless stairs and my destination, the Franziskischlössl, came into view. This cozy fortress is currently closed to the public, but still makes a worthy destination for anyone hiking Kapuzinerberg. An expansive terrace provides space to relax and recuperate after the climb.

Naturally, the view from here is also fantastic. The terrace at Franziskischlössl overlooks Salzburg’s New Town. While this vantage point lacks the baroque spires for which Salzburg is famous, it’s a lovely look across the modern city and the verdant foothills of the Alps.

After a few minutes spent soaking in the view, I turned to head back down the trail. This time, I followed the main paved trail, thankful to be headed downhill. The sounds of Salzburg traffic faded away as I delved deeper into the woods.

Now is a good time to pause the narrative to note that the signage along the main trails on Kapuzinerberg is quite good, and even provides directions to locations further afield. Stray off the main trail, however, and it’s another story. Many of the dirt paths aren’t labeled, even at trail junctions. Fortunately, Google maps was a big help in keeping me on the right track. Typically, I’m not one to rely on electronics while hiking, but sometimes we all need a little direction in life.

The paved trail is nice, but it wasn’t long before I was tempted to veer off course once again. I turned right off the main trail and found myself under a lacy canopy of golden green leaves shimmering in the evening sunlight. There were many more stair steps ahead, but it was all downhill from here (and I mean that in the best way possible).

Eventually, the trail met back up with the Cloister (Kapuzinerkloster). I ducked into the church for a quick peek, then walked toward the terrace to take in the glorious view.

The sun edged its way toward the horizon as I made my way back down the hill into town. Through the archway at the end of the path, locals and tourists alike were out enjoying the mild summer evening, slowly meandering the pedestrian streets and alleys around Linzer Gasse.

As for me, it was time to retire to my hotel. Evening turned to dusk as I turned to make my way along Linzer Gasse, lingering just a few moments more in the magic of Salzburg.