Hiking the Kalalau Trail to Hanakapi’ai Beach on Kauai

Looking to explore more amazing trails in Kauai?
Try hiking the Awa’awapuhi Trail above the Napali Coast.

CURRENT INFO

General information about the Kalalau Trial is available on the Hawaii State Parks website. Trail reports and maps are found on the AllTrails website for both the hike to Hanakapi’ai Beach and the longer trail to Hanakapi’ai Falls. For further information about the Kalalau Trail and other hikes on Kaua’i, I recommend The Ultimate Kauai Guidebook: Kauai Revealed by Andrew Doughty.

GOOD TO KNOW

Buckle up! There’s a lot to know when planning a trip to Ha’ena State Park and the Kalalau Trail.

• Reservations are required to enter Ha’ena State Park. There are two options: Making a parking reservation or booking a shuttle. The reservation system was implemented a number of years ago to manage the increasing popularity of Ha’eana State Park and Ke’e Beach. These efforts were put in place to protect the natural environment and provide a good experience for visitors free from overcrowding. Importantly, Hawaiian residents still have limited access to the park for free.
• Ha’ena is home to important historical, cultural, and sacred sites for native Hawaiians. Please show respect by following all posted rules and treating the land with care. Reservation fees are used to support historical and cultural preservation, education, and community projects on Kauai. In a place where balancing tourism and local needs is a constant challenge, this is one way for your tourist dollars to actively benefit the community.
• As of 2023, parking reservations cost $10 per vehicle plus $5 per person. Reservations open at 12am Hawaii time 30 days in advance, and fill up in the blink of an eye — no joke. You will be required to pick a morning or afternoon visit, and must arrive and depart within those times, which limits the length of your visit.
• Shuttle reservations cost $35 per person for those 16 and up and $25 for ages four through 15, while kids three and under are free. Shuttle reservations can also be made 30 days in advance and fill more slowly, but it’s still critical to reserve ahead of time to secure your spot. With the shuttle, you only need to reserve the outbound trip, while the return trip is first come, first served. You can arrive early in the morning and stay all day until the last shuttle departure. The shuttle departs from Waipa Park and Ride at the west end of Hanalei.
• We chose to take the shuttle even though it was more expensive, both because it was easier to make reservations and gave us the flexibility to stay as long as we wanted.

• Those not up for a hike on the Kalalau Trail can still enjoy a visit to Ha’ena State Park. Follow the accessible trail across the taro fields to Ke’e Beach, where you can enjoy a gorgeous beach and picnic tables in the shade.
• Restrooms, drinking water, and an outdoor shower are located near the trailhead at Ke’e beach. There is also a vault toilet located along the Kalalau Trail near Hanakapi’ai Beach.
• Bring shade hats, sunscreen, snacks, and plenty of water. Much of the trail is shady, but some sections are exposed.
• Wear good hiking shoes or boots, bring trekking poles, and expect mud. The trail to Hanakapi’ai Beach is very hilly and often rocky. Those continuing on to Hanakapi’ai Falls will find the trail even more challenging. Overall, we didn’t encounter as much mud on the Kalalau Trail as we did on the Awa’awapuhi Trail, but believe me, it was there. Dun dun dun!
• Other items to consider bringing: swimsuits, beach towels, snorkel gear, and picnic supplies. This works best if someone in your group chooses not to hike, as they can stay at Ke’e beach with the extra gear.
• The clear water of Ke’e beach is protected by a small reef, making it a great place to swim. It’s also a fantastic place to snorkel, particularly in summer (it’s often too rough for snorkeling around the reef and beyond in winter). Michael and I snorkeled along the outer edge of the reef at Ke’e in August many years ago, and spotted no fewer than 18 sea turtles!
• Ke’e beach has an active lifeguard station. Check with the life guards to verify where you can safely swim and snorkel that day. Avoid the deeper channel of water at the west end of the beach, where strong currents can make swimming unsafe.
• For those hiking the Kalalau Trail to Hanakapi’ai Beach, please note that Hanakapi’ai Beach is not safe for swimming. Surf here is often high, and currents are strong. Those hiking to Hanakapi’ai Falls can swim in the pool there, or take a dip at Ke’e Beach after the return hike.
• There is a significant stream crossing right before Hanakapi’ai Beach. Don’t expect to stay dry. Use care, especially with children, as the water can be fast-moving and the rocks in the streambed are slippery. Conditions will vary. On our visit, I waded in over my knees, and used boulders to stabilize myself against the current.
• Want to hike the entire 11-mile Kalalau Trail (22 miles round trip)? Check out the Hawaii State Parks website for more information and to purchase permits.
• Pets are not allowed on the Kalalau Trail.
• Always follow Leave No Trace principles.

HIGHLIGHTS

Incomparable views await those who brave the trek along the Kalalau Trail, including glimpses of the dramatic cliffs of the Napali Coast. Just the first two miles were stunning, so I can only imagine what glories (and challenges) await those who attempt the full trail. The tide was high when we visited Hanakapi’ai Beach, which limited out ability to explore, but Ke’e Beach, located at the trailhead and accessible even for those who choose not to hike, remains, in my estimation, one of the most beautiful beaches on Kauai.

THE KIDS’ TAKE

The Kalalau Trail is hard work, but also good fun for kids who already have some sold hiking experience. Towering ti plants, stream crossings, and a boulder-strewn beach give the hike a real air of adventure. And don’t forget the swimsuits! I mistakenly assumed the water would be too rough for swimming, so we left ours behind. But while Hanakapi’ai Beach is no place to swim, Ke’e beach was as calm as a swimming pool. Fortunately, clothes dry quickly. Still, take a lesson from me — don’t go anywhere on Kauai without a swimsuit!

WHILE YOU’RE HERE

Just before Ha’eana State Park, you’ll pass the Limahuli National Tropical Botanical Garden and Preserve. Advance reservations are required to visit this gorgeous garden, which focuses on endemic plants and those brought to Kauai by the original Polynesian inhabitants in their canoes.

Beyond the gardens, Ha’ena Beach (not to be confused with Ha’ena State Park) is another beautiful place to explore, with a dramatic cave located right along the road. East of Ha’ena Beach, Tunnels Beach offers some of the best snorkeling in Kauai, although the water is often too rough for snorkeling and swimming in winter.

For something to eat or a special treat, head to the quintessential laid-back surfer town of Hanalei. Try the shave ice at Wishing Well (the organic flavors are the best), or stop by their coffee shop for a smoothie or iced latte (pro tip: the custom-logo mason jars they use to serve their cold drinks make a great souvenir). A small collection of food trucks next door offer a good variety of freshly made food.

Our trek along the Kalalau Trail began with an early morning wake-up call. At 6:30am, we arrived at the Waipa Park and Ride, pulled out our trekking poles and a few backpacks laden with snacks and water bottles, and blearily boarded our shuttle bus. Twenty minutes later, we arrived at our destination: Ha’ena State Park.

A visit to Ha’ena State Park begins with a nice, easy boardwalk trail through picturesque taro fields. Taro was a staple food of the original Hawaiians, who brought the plants with them as they voyaged across the Pacific. These taro fields are one way that Ha’ena State Park is working to bring back traditional Hawaiian agricultural practices.

Past the taro fields, a wide, flat, sandy trail winds through vine-laden jungle. Soon, we arrived at Ke’e Beach, the true hub of Ha’ena State Park. Here you’ll find a restroom, drinking water, and outdoor showers to rinse off after a saltwater swim. Beyond the trees, the cerulean waters of Ke’e beach beckon, while picnic tables await in the shade.

This is also where the Kalalau Trail officially begins. Technically, the trail leaves Ha’ena State Park behind and enters the Napali Coast State Wilderness Park. But Ha’ena State Park is the only access point for the trail, both for day hikers and backpackers. After a few hearty swigs of water to start us off, we topped off our water bottles and were on our way.

As expected, the trail was rough and rocky. Muddy, too, although overall it was nothing compared to the mud slicks we had already experience on the Awa’awapuhi Trail (or maybe we were just getting used to it). The Kalalau Trail wound its way uphill through dense jungle foliage, offering tantalizing glimpses of the Pacific and the Napali Cliffs.

The day prior to our hike, we visited the Limahuli National Tropical Botanical Garden, and learned that many of the plants here were introduced in the 20th century following the dramatic deforestation that occurred when Americans introduced industrialized farming to the island. Beautiful as it appears today, many endemic and canoe plants (the plants brought in canoes by the original Polynesian settlers) have been virtually wiped out.

I thought about these changes as we continued the steady climb. Still, I couldn’t help but be taken in by the beauty around me, and I did spy a number of native plants along the trail. Clouds drifted across the sky, casting shadows across the verdant forest.

The trail was alternately rocky and muddy, and sometimes a little of both. Along some stretches, carefully placed stones created natural stair steps, which also lessened the mud. In other places, Kauai’s famed red dirt was slick from recent rain. I stepped gingerly around a few large puddles, but overall it wasn’t too difficult to navigate.

About two thirds of the way to Hanakapi’ai Beach, we came to a helicopter landing pad, complete with a warning sign to “stay clear at all times 1.5 mile”. How, we wondered, could we possibly manage to stay 1.5 miles away? Why, 1.5 miles was as far back as the trailhead at Ke’e Beach! We had to laugh at the phrasing chosen by whoever decided to include the mile marker information on the same sign as the warning.

Past the helicopter landing zone, the trail headed downhill. We were in the final stretch to Hanakapi’ai Beach. But just when the crashing waves were almost within reach, we discovered one final hurdle: Hanakapi’ai Stream.

As with many streams, the water flow of Hanakapi’ai varies throughout the year. During our April visit, it definitely looked a little intimidating. Naturally, young T was not afraid, and decided to try his luck at crossing unassisted. Just as naturally, I was not about to let my seven-year-old get swept downstream by the rushing current, so I quickly called out to T to wait while I removed my socks and slipped my bare feet back into my hiking shoes.

We made it across without much difficulty, although it took some skill to avoid a few treacherous spots where the current was especially strong. Once across, we clambered over the boulders that lined Hanakapi’ai Beach to reach the sand. By now, the kids were more than ready for a snack, so I pulled out some food while we waited for the rest of the family.

Hanakapi’ai Beach is indeed beautiful, but the high tide prevented us from being able to explore far. We were hemmed in by cliffs on both sides, and the pounding surf made it clear that this was no place to swim. Before long, the kids were ready to turn back and head to the calm waters of Ke’e Beach.

Unfortunately, one member of our party still hadn’t crossed the stream. On the opposite bank, standing at the mouth of the stream, Michael stood surveying his options.

“Just cross!” I yelled, gesturing. Not that he could hear me over the crashing waves.

It took some time, but Michael finally joined us. Not prepared to wade through the water and soak his shoes and pants, he had instead sought out a dry crossing, which was no easy feat. It was probably more dangerous than simply wading through the water, as it required a rather risky jump. But all’s well that ends well, and Michael lived to tell the tale.

Of course, crossing the stream once is not enough. The only way back is to cross it again. While Michael, Lindah, the kids, and I prepared to do just that, my dad and Sam had another plan. Having come this far, they couldn’t resist the chance to hike another two miles to Hanakapi’ai Falls. This trail is even rougher than the Kalalau Trail, and follows Hanakapi’ai Stream to an enchanting waterfall above a tropical swimming hole.

It took a little time, but the rest of us made it safely across the stream once more and began the climb back up the trail. Again, we passed a babbling waterfall as it tumbled through a mountain ravine and over the trail. Simple steps built into the trail helped us on our way. And the views… well, they were just as good the second around, no doubt about that.

After the initial climb came the descent. Some of the steeper sections were a little tricky, but nothing we couldn’t handle.

As we neared the trailhead, Ke’e Beach came into view again. White-fringed waves lapped at the edge of the reef, and turquoise water sparkled in the sun. We reached the shore where my mom was waiting, and refilled our water bottles before setting off to explore the beach. Ke’e Beach is a wonder to explore, but I’ll save that for another post.

A few hours later, who should appear but Sam and dad. They had made it all the way to the waterfall and back in excellent time. From their telling, the stunning views of ethereal Hanakapi’ai Falls were well worth the extra miles.

Together, we headed back through the taro fields to meet the shuttle bus. Was it worth the cost? After all, there are many wonderful beaches and trails on Kauai. The Kalalau Trail may be the most famous, but is far from the only worthy choice.

Ultimately, I say yes. For the chance to enjoy this little piece of paradise, I was happy to pay the shuttle fee, knowing we’re contributing to the local economy in a meaningful way, and participating in a system designed to stem the overcrowding that so often overwhelms these special places. If you go to Kauai, you may choose to visit other natural wonders instead. After all, with such strict limits in place, not all visitors can visit Ha’ena State Park. But if you go, I hope you, too, will feel honored to have the opportunity to appreciate this incredible place, and the people for whom this land will always be sacred.