Paddling Lover’s Lane from Northrup Point on Banks Lake, Washington

Looking for more things to do in and around Steamboat Rock State Park?
Hike to the top of Steamboat Rock for a totally different view of Banks Lake.

SWIM

Banks Lake is great for swimming in the heat of summer. Since we visited on a cool, cloudy day, we didn’t test the waters.

If you swim at Banks Lake, a word of caution: watch out for speedboats and choose your swimming spots wisely. There is no designated swimming area at Northrup Point, and I do not recommend swimming there. Instead, head to the swimming area near Steamboat Rock State Park Campground. Paddlers may also find sheltered coves along the lake away from the motorboats.

PADDLE

Banks Lake offers endless opportunities for exploration. At 27 miles in length, you could spend days paddling from one end to the other. Our trip from Northrup Point through Lover’s Lane and back was short and sweet (about three miles total), but you can easily turn this into a much longer trek. Regardless of your plans, here are some important safety tips, whether paddling with kids, adults, or furry friends:

• Make sure everyone wears a life vest.
• Bring plenty of snacks, water, extra layers of clothing, sunscreen, and shade hats. Pack supplies in dry bags, as your boat will likely take on some water. Weather here is changeable, but can be very hot in summer.
• Don’t push yourself beyond your level. Stick close to the shore and keep your trip short if you are a novice paddler and the water is rough.
• Remember that weather conditions change, often quickly. The water is usually the most calm in the mornings and evenings. If you head out in the morning, don’t be surprised if the winds pick up when you return in the afternoon.
• Keep an eye out for speed boats. Some boaters really let it rip as they motor through Banks Lake. Paddlers should stick close to the shore and smaller channels (like Lover’s Lane). Look carefully for oncoming traffic when crossing the main channels.
• The water at Banks Lake is generally calm and cool, but conditions vary. Because it’s a lake (technically a reservoir), there are no strong currents or tides. It’s a wonderful place to paddle for all levels of experience, as even a short trip is highly rewarding.

GOOD TO KNOW

• Bring your Discover Pass. This covers the parking fee at Steamboat Rock State Park, where Northrup Point is located. If you don’t have a Discover Pass, you can purchase a $10 day pass from the automated machine in the parking lot.
• There is also a $7 boat launch permit fee. You can purchase a permit at Northrup Point. For more information about the permits, or to purchase an annual pass, visit the Washington State Parks website.
• Restrooms and water are available — usually. For some reason, the restroom appeared to be locked on our visit. There are also restrooms and water at the day use area near the Steamboat Rock Campground, located eight miles from Northrup Point.
• Fishing is a popular activity at Banks Lake. There is even a fish cleaning station at Northrup Point. For more information, visit the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife webpage.

HIGHLIGHTS

Paddling the north end of Banks Lake takes you on a labyrinthine journey through rocky islands and coves with ever changing views. Finding a place to pull ashore can be challenging, but it’s well worth it. Steamboat Rock dominates the skyline, but the rest of the scenery is just as stunning. Get out and explore!

THE KIDS’ TAKE

Our kids were pretty excited to try out kayaking with our dog for the first time. Just getting Buddy into his doggy life vest was a highlight of the trip! Out on the water, they became pirates eagerly scouting the perfect location to bury their treasure. There’s so much to explore here, and getting to discover “secret” wild places along the shore is a big part of the fun.

WHILE YOU’RE HERE

Steamboat Rock State Park is a great place to explore. Head south from Northrup Point to the Steamboat Rock trailhead to hike to the top of this iconic butte. You can camp here as well. Be sure to reserve your campsite well in advance if you plan to stay here in summer, especially over the weekend.

Ten miles north of Northrup Point lies the Grand Coulee Dam, an awesome sight crossing the mighty Columbia River. Check out the visitor center and take a tour to better appreciate its massive scale, and don’t forget to come back for the nightly laser show in the summer. Looking for caffeine? Voltage Coffee House in the town of Grand Coulee is worth a stop, and offers pastries, fruit, and other goodies in addition to coffee.

On our trip, we camped at Spring Canyon Campground, located a couple of miles east of Grand Coulee above Lake Roosevelt. Spring Canyon is another great home base for exploring this fascinating region of Washington State.

With the sun tucked away behind the clouds, we arrived at Northrup Point on Banks Lake. For a brief moment, the sun broke through, sending us scrambling for the sunscreen. Alas, it was only a brief showing, and soon the clouds once blanketing the sun from view. Of course, this had its benefits. A pleasantly cool paddle on a cloudy day is often preferable to the hot glare of paddling in a heat wave (or so we Seattleites tell ourselves).

Our ultimate goal was the Lake Ozette ranger station at the end of Ozette Lake Road. Somewhat confusingly, the lake is commonly called both “Lake Ozette” and “Ozette Lake”. I’m sticking with Lake Ozette, as that’s how I first came to know it. Shortly before we reached the national park boundary, we turned right into The Lost Resort. In the chilly air, we warmed ourselves over cups of coffee while we waited on our made-to-order sandwiches.

This past winter, I bought a second Aquaglide Chelan inflatable kayak, and was excited to take it out for the first time. After some initial frustration inserting the skeg into the hull of the kayak (who knew a minor defect in the plastic track could be so difficult?), we were ready to launch.

I set off in the first boat with my 11-year-old son, J, and our dog, Buddy. Yes, that’s right — Buddy was about to enjoy his first kayak trip! Decked out in a brand new life jacket, he certainly looked the part of a salty sea dog (even though we were paddling on fresh water). In reality, he didn’t quite have his sea legs. Nervously, he pawed at the boat, unwilling to lie calmly at my feet. Let me tell you, paddling with an antsy dog stepping on your legs doesn’t exactly foster a relaxing experience.

Eventually Buddy eased into the ride, enabling me to better appreciate the incredible view. To the south, Steamboat Rock rose majestically above Banks Lake. To the west, rocky islands marked the entrance to the narrow passage called Lover’s Lane. This was our destination, but first we had to cross the main channel. Crossing here requires some care, as speedboats often whizz through at high speeds, seemingly oblivious to us little guys bobbing in their wake. Luckily there wasn’t much boat traffic, and we soon made a safe crossing.

Once across the channel, we turned north and headed through the shallow opening to Lover’s Lane. The water here is well protected from the wind, and the shallow entry effectively block speedboats from using this passage. As we navigated northward, Michael, our friend Dustin, and six-year-old T glided past in the second kayak.

“How’s it going with Buddy?” Michael asked.

“Better!” I responded. “He’s starting to settle — ouch!“

Buddy was on his feet again, planting a paw firmly on my shin. Apparently, the sight of the second kayak put his nerves on edge, and he began to whine. Dogs don’t like it when the pack separates!

By this time, J was scouting ahead for a place to land. The steep shoreline limited our options, but J was confident that a grassy patch of land north of Lover’s Lane would prove worthy. We pulled ahead, leaving Lover’s Lane behind for new discoveries. With the other kayak out of sight, Buddy grew calmer, although I could tell that he, too, was eager for what lay ahead. A flat rocky shelf at the edge of Banks Lake provided the ideal spot to beach the kayak and explore on foot.

Let me tell you, Buddy was more than ready for this! As soon as I unhooked his leash he was off like a speeding bullet, racing over grassy hillsides and lichen-covered balds. J and I laughed in delight. This uninhabited peninsula on the northwestern shore of Banks Lake gave him the rare opportunity to run free, and he savored every moment.

J and I explored as well, although at a much slower pace than Buddy. From the top of a nearby bald, the view toward Steamboat Rock was stunning. We could also see the rest of our party across the water on the island that marked the north end of Lover’s Lane. Having chosen not to head further north with us, they found another place to land that offered its own fabulous views.

After a snack and water break, Buddy, J, and I headed back to our kayak. Turning south, we met up with the others at the island. This, too, was a great place to explore, although getting in and out of the kayak was trickier. The rocks below the waterline were slick and the shoreline was steep. Having others present to lend a helping hand was a definite plus.

After a few more snacks (it was now well past our usual lunch time), we headed back to Northrup Point. Once again, J, Buddy, and I were the first boat to launch. This time, rather than traveling through Lover’s Lane, we followed the main channel to the east, sticking close to the shore as we paddled south.

J and I were making good time, but paused when we realized that the second kayak still hadn’t emerged from the other side of the island. Finally we saw them round the bend. It turned out that Michael took a little tumble into the water when trying to step into the boat — those rocks are seriously slippery!

Now all was well, and the trip down Banks Lake to Northrup Point passed quickly. We made another safe crossing of the main channel, and were soon back at the dock. It was time to pack up. The sky darkened as we hurried to transfer everything back to the car, the first raindrops falling as we folded up the now deflated kayaks. Spirits still high, we drove off as the rain started to pour. Perfect timing! And a great end to a wonderful paddle on beautiful Banks Lake.