Hiking to Stunning Lac Blanc in the French Alps

Looking for more great hiking near Lac Blanc and Chamonix?
Try the Grand Balcon Sud or the Grand Balcon Nord, both ridgeline trails with incomparable views of the Mont Blanc Massif.

DIFFICULTY

Challenging — The trail to Lac Blanc is rough, rocky, steep, and sometimes difficult to follow. You will gain over 1700 feet in elevation in two miles, and if you do the full loop the total elevation gain is over 2000 feet.

I HIKED IT

August, 2024, about 4 hours from La Flégère to Lac Blanc to L’Index

CURRENT INFO

You can find a map and information for both the loop hike to Lac Blanc and the out-and-back option on the AllTrails website. For general trip planning for France, I recommend the Rick Steves France guidebook.

GOOD TO KNOW

• To start the hike, take the cable car from the town of Les Praz to La Flégère. You can purchase one-way and round trip tickets at the station, including tickets for the chairlift connecting L’Index and Flégère. On my hike, I was running short on time by the time I reach L’Index on the return hike from Lac Blanc. Taking the chairlift down to La Flégère instead of hiking was a lifesaver!
• If you plan to visit the Aiguille du Midi during your trip, the best deal is to buy a Mont Blanc multi-pass, which covers the cost of all local cable cars. You can buy passes for one or more days, depending on your plans. Although there is a small discount if you purchase passes online ahead of time, I prefer to buy my pass in person because the weather here is so changeable. It’s not uncommon for the cable car to the Aiguille du Midi to shut down because of high winds even on an otherwise beautiful day.
• Les Praz is easy to reach from the town of Chamonix using public transportation. The bus stops near the cable car station, whereas the train station is several blocks away. The Tourist Information office and hotel staff in Chamonix are good resources for local train and bus information.
• You can also walk or bike along the Arve River from Chamonix to the cable car station in Les Praz. The riverside promenade begins near Chamonix’s massive sports center. The path is flat and easy, and the trip takes around half an hour by foot (or a little longer at a leisurely pace). Start off following the signs for “Les Praz”. As you near the cable car station, look for signs that say “Téléphérique de la Flégère”, which lead away from the river to the cable car station.

• Public toilets are available at cable car stations and cafés. There is a small fee to use the WC at Lac Blanc.
• Mountain cafés are located at La Flègère, Lac Blanc, and L’Index. They are generally open during the summer, but may be closed during shoulder season. It’s also common for these small restaurants to close for one day each week. The cafés at La Flégère and Lac Blanc are your best bets for food, while the one at L’Index focuses more on drinks.
• The Lac Blanc trail is extremely rough and rocky, with many steep switchbacks. Do not hike this route unless you are up for a strenuous climb.
• Wear hiking boots or shoes with good tread.
• Hiking poles are recommended but not required. There are a few places along the steepest sections where you may find your hands more helpful than hiking poles!
• Bring layers, a rain jacket, suncreen, sunglasses, plenty of water, and snacks. The trail to Lac Blanc offers no shade or shelter along the way, and conditions change rapidly in the mountains. Even on a sunny day, rain clouds can roll in quickly. The temperature drops when the sun slips behind a cloud, and direct sunlight brings the risk of sunburn.
• Swimming is not allowed at Lac Blanc. If you’re looking for a cold water plunge, look elsewhere.
• Always follow Leave No Trace principles.

HIGHLIGHTS

The trail to Lac Blanc is crowded and relentlessly steep. The rocky switchbacks feel never-ending as the sun beats down on your back with the best mountain views behind you. And then… magic. There is nothing quite as gratifying after a tough climb as the surreal blue waters of Lac Blanc appearing before you like a mountain mirage. Stop, take a moment to turn around and view the Mont Blanc Massif, and breathe in deep. This is what Alpine dreams are made of.

THE KIDS’ TAKE

I’ve seen a few kids on the trail to Lac Blanc (and a few babies in backpacks), but not many. It can be a good option for older kids and teens who enjoy the physical challenge, but many younger kids will find it exhausting. I haven’t hiked it with my kids, but I can easily see my 13-year-old loving the rocky climb while my eight-year-old wilts at the mere sight of it. My hope is this review will provide guidance to help you make the best choice for your family.

WHILE YOU’RE HERE

If you’re up for more hiking, consider combining the trail to Lac Blanc with the Grand Balcon Sud. From La Flégère, follow the trail signs toward Planpraz. There are a couple of mountain restaurants at Planpraz, as well as a cable car to take you back to Chamonix.

You can also hike to the Petit Balcon Sud from La Flégère back to Chamonix. Be warned, however, that the trail down from Flégère to the Petit Balcon Sud is very steep and can be confusing. An easier option is to hike the forested Petit Balcon Sud trail from Chamonix. The beautiful Chalet de La Floria is the prefect turnaround point, where you can enjoy a snack or light meal with a view before returning to town.

What visit to Chamonix would be complete without a trip to the Auiguille du Midi? The Aiguille du Midi is the highest point in Europe reached by cable car, and the view from this pinnacle is (almost literally) breathtaking. After your trip to the top, I highly recommend hiking the Grand Balcon Nord from Plan de l’Auiguille to Montenvers. You’ll get a fantastic hike with nonstop views followed by the chance to visit the famous Mer de Glace glacier before taking the train from Montenvers back to Chamonix.

This was not my first hike to Lac Blanc. A number of years earlier I made the grueling trek, and was completely mesmerized when I reached my destination — the ethereal alpine lake known simply as Lac Blanc. As with many trails in the French Alps, you will be left breathless, both from the arduous climb and from the sheer magnificence of this rugged mountain landscape.

I began the hike at Flégère, the cable car station located above the village of Les Praz. This is the route most day hikers take, following the signs pointing toward the wide gravel trail. The trail sign helpfully estimates it will take one hour and 45 minutes to reach Lac Blanc. That’s true for some, but be prepared to take more time if you need it. After all, you probably want to enjoy the experience and make it to the lake in one piece.

Although the first section of the trail is the easiest, I wouldn’t call it exactly easy. Irregular, chunky rocks line the path, and the elevation quickly starts to rise. If you already feel overwhelmed, you might want to turn around. It’s going to get worse.

Of course, “worse” is a matter of perspective (and physical ability). If you like rugged, challenging trails you will absolutely love this hike. Regardless of your hiking prowess, I encourage everyone to take a moment now and then to stop, turn around, and look up. What view! Believe it or not, it’s going to get even better.

After the initial climb, I came to a beautiful boardwalk. While the terrain was quite dry during my visit, I imagine this section can be marshy and muddy, especially early in the season. Enjoy this easygoing section of the trail while it lasts!

Beyond the boardwalk, the trail turned rocky again and became even steeper. It was also much narrower. Despite the strenuousness, I was far from alone. Lac Blanc is a hugely popular destination, and relatively accessible for fit hikers. Fortunately, there are frequent places where you can step off the trail to catch your breath (and more of those fabulous views). The small tarn pictured above is just one example.

Past the tarn, the trail grew even more rugged. At times, it was almost a technical route. Cables and footholds helped ease the way along some of the most difficult sections, but there were many places where I found myself picking my steps carefully among the jagged rocks and reaching my hands out to steady myself. Did I say this trail was short? It sure didn’t feel that way. Above me, I could see a ridgeline. Maybe, I thought, if I can just make it to that ridge, I’ll reach Lac Blanc. Nope. Once I crossed the ridgeline, there was another climb to go, even more challenging than the last.

Huffing and puffing, not to mention feeling a bit dizzy, I stepped to the side of the trail to catch my breath. Lac Blanc lies at an elevation of nearly 8000 feet (over 2300 meters), and I was definitely feeling it. While I initially planned to make it to the lake before taking a break, I realized I was in desperate need of water. The sun beat down as I gulped from my bottle. I took a few extra minutes to focus on my breathing, then took another drink. On a trail like this, stamina is important, and I couldn’t risk feeling faint. One careless step could lead to a twisted ankle or a skinned knee.

I continued up the trail, but was now feeling desperate to reach the top. Lac Blanc, where are you? Finally, I came to the last ridge and.. voilà! Shimmering like an oasis in the desert, the pale, clear waters of Lac Blanc appeared at my feet. It’s a dramatic approach. As on my prior hike, any frustration with the crowds of hikers and the strenuous trek melted away. It was love at first (or, in this case technically second) sight.

Lac Blanc is split into two sections, so I hiked around the first and climbed to a rocky promontory overlooking the back section. The turquoise water rippled silently below the rocky spires. I found a place to sit and pulled out my picnic lunch. If you prefer not to pack your own food, there is also a small restaurant near the lake offering a good menu of Savoyarde classics and drinks. With plentiful outdoor seating, you’ll also enjoy a fabulous view. There is even a WC. Be sure to bring some coins, as there is a 1€ fee to use it.

After a leisurely lunch at Lac Blanc and a little exploring, it was time for the return hike. As I left the lake, I turned right off the main trail and followed the signs for L’Index. This is the trail less traveled, as most hikers return on the main trail that leads back to Flégère.

At first, the trail to L’Index appears deceptively easy, but it soon shows its true colors. As it rounds a corner, the relatively level trail traverses a short but steep rocky slope. Beyond this point, the route crosses numerous rock fields ranging from boulders to loose scree. At some points, it’s almost impossible to make out an actual trail. Fortunately, yellow dots and dashes painted along the rocks guide the way. In areas like this, always look ahead for the next trail marker. Without them, it’s all too easy to lose your way.

The trail to L’Index has a lot of ups and downs, but the elevation gain is less extreme than on the trail to La Flégère. Even so, I consider this to be the more challenging route, although it’s also a lot of fun if you enjoy some scrambling amid the rocks. As always, the views are stunning.

Eventually, I left the jumbled rock piles behind for a more traditional trail. L’Index was not far ahead, but first I was greeted by an unexpected surprise. Just off the trail, a different kind of hiking party was making its way through the inhospitable terrain. A line of sheep stepped nimbly through the rocks. Six or seven sheepdogs — Great Pyrenees, from the looks of it — each took their place in line, ensuring the sheep stayed on track. There were no human shepherds in sight, and I assumed the herd had made this trek many times and knew the route by heart.

After enjoying a thoroughly delightful break watching the dogs and their sheep, I soon reached L’Index. This cable car station is even higher than Lac Blanc, with an elevation of around 8400 feet (2600 meters). Electronic beats drifted across the trail as I approached the station — there was a party happening at L’Index! Outside the snack bar by the pétanque court, a DJ was spinning. Hikers sank into folding lounge chairs with cold drinks in hand, soaking in the unobstructed view of mighty Mont Blanc.

I bought a drink at the bar and took a seat at one of the picnic tables. Fresh beats, a chill vibe, and utterly amazing mountain views — where else could I be but the French Alps?

All too soon, it was time to go. I realized that In order to make it back into town on time, I needed to take the chair lift to Flégère. Unfortunately, there was no way to purchase a ticket! Luckily, when the chair operater realized my dilemma, it was no problem. He waved me onto the next chair and told me not to worry. Que c’est gentil!

If you decide to walk to Flégère, you’ll follow a wide gravel road. Although not too difficult, it’s a long way down, and my knees were grateful for the break. Once I reached Flégère, I boarded the cable car for Les Praz, then followed the river walk into Chamonix.

As the French would say, it had been, to put it lightly, magnifique. Lac Blanc is truly worth the effort, and remains one of my favorite Alpine destinations. Even its immense popularity doesn’t tarnish its appeal. For pure mountain bliss, Lac Blanc is the shining diamond in the crown of the French Alps.