Paddling Emerald Lake in the Canadian Rockies

Looking for more fun things to do near Emerald Lake?
Camp overnight at Kicking Horse Campground, hike to Wapta Falls, and marvel at the incomparable Takakkaw Falls.

SWIM

On a hot day, a dip in Emerald Lake is a treat. On a not-so-hot day? Well, keep in mind that Emerald Lake is fed by glacial runoff, so be prepared for a polar bear plunge. Regardless, three out of four family members in our household braved the cold for a quick swim after our paddle trip.

Due to high amounts of glacial silt in the water (aka rock flour), Emerald Lake isn’t as translucent as many other high alpine lakes, but it sure is gorgeous. The water is blessedly free of weeds, with a rocky and sandy bottom. Vegetation lines much of the lakeshore, and there are only a few small beaches near the trailhead. Unsurprisingly, these beaches get quite crowded on sunny days. Fortunately for swimmers, the coldness of the water keeps the crowds at bay. Brace yourself, and dive in!

PADDLE

The relatively small size of Emerald Lake makes it easy to explore by kayak, canoe, or paddle board. Despite its size, expect an impressive variety in the scenery, as new mountains come into view and the color of the water shifts as clouds drift overhead. You can tour the entire lake in a few hours, or spend longer exploring hidden nooks and crannies. Only non-motorized watercraft are allowed on the lake, making it a peaceful place to soak in the natural beauty.

The paddling was easy during our visit, at least until we ran into a strong headwind on the return trip. The winds didn’t last long, but for a few minutes I was paddling with all my might to make headway. It’s a good reminder to be prepared for all conditions, regardless of how calm the waters may be when you depart.

Ready to get out on the lake? If you plan to bring your own boat, there’s one very important thing to know first. All watercraft must be cleaned, drained, and dried for a minimum of 30 days after use in any body of water outside British Columbia, Alberta, or the Canadian Territories. That’s right, 30 days. If used in the aforementioned provinces and territories, then it only needs to have been dry for 48 hours.

The intent of this seemingly draconian measure is to prevent the spread of invasive species, so please take it seriously. I repeat this same information again in the “Good to Know” section below to emphasize its importance. Self-certification permits, available at the Emerald Lake trailhead, require you to attest that your boat meets these requirements.

If you don’t have your own boat or paddle board, canoes are available for rent from the Boathouse Trading Co. At $90 CAD per hour, it’s pricey, but oh the joy it will bring…

GOOD TO KNOW

• Emerald Lake is extremely popular. Arrive early in the day or in the evening if you hope to park near the lodge and trailhead.
• All visitors must pay the national park entrance fee or have a valid annual Parks Canada Discovery Pass to visit Emerald Lake. Check the Yoho National Park website for current information.
• Paddlers bringing their own boats onto Emerald Lake must complete a self-certification permit. Permit forms are available at the trailhead near the parking lot. This permit certifies that your boat has been cleaned, drained, and dried for a minimum of 48 hours after being used elsewhere within British Columbia, Alberta, or the Canadian territories.
• If used in the U.S. or elsewhere in Canada, your boat must be cleaned, drained, and dried for a minimum of 30 days since last use. Yes, you read that right — 30 days. This rule is intended to mitigate the spread of invasive species, so please make sure your personal watercraft meets this requirement.
• When bringing your own boat, you can park briefly by the trailhead at the end of the parking lot to unload your gear. From the trailhead, it’s a couple hundred meters along the trail to the small beach where you can launch. There is no public dock.
• The Boathouse at Emerald Lake rents canoes for those who don’t have their own boat. Be prepared for sticker shock: canoe rentals cost $90 CAD per hour.
• Only non-motorized boats are allowed on Emerald Lake.
• Vault toilets are available at the trailhead near the parking lot. Fair warning: these were the stinkiest toilets we encountered on our trip through the Canadian Rockies. Use at your own risk.
• Emerald Lake Lodge offers the option to stay overnight on the lake for travelers with a generous budget. The lodge also offers a two restaurants and a lounge.
• Always follow Leave No Trace principles.

HIGHLIGHTS

One look at Emerald Lake, and the source of its name becomes immediately clear. OK, so on our visit the lake was more jade than emerald, but regardless, the intense green of the water was astounding. To my mind, there is no better way to experience it than by boat, which allows you to escape the crowds that cluster around the lodge and immerse yourself in the beauty of the Canadian Rockies.

THE KIDS’ TAKE

Emerald Lake’s beauty appeals to kids and adults alike. It’s small enough to circumnavigate within a few hours, which can bring a real sense of accomplishment for young paddlers. Our trip around Emerald Lake was the first time we entrusted our 7-year-old with his own paddle, and he was positively beaming with pride.

Before you go out, check conditions, and note that they can change quickly. If your family is new to paddling, looping the entire lake may be too much. Although the waters were mostly calm on our visit, we hit a stiff headwind on the return trip. Other than the sudden wind, the only other downside was a lack of good places to come ashore and explore. It is possible, but there are very few easy places to beach your boat along Emerald Lake.

WHILE YOU’RE HERE

Emerald Lake is well worth a visit even if you don’t plan to paddle. An easy 3.2-mile trail loops the lake, and is a nice alternative for those who want to stay dry. For those looking for a little luxury, Emerald Lake Lodge offers lakeside accommodations, fine dining, and a more casual restaurant, Cilantro on the Lake.

Our accommodations at Kicking Horse Campground were, shall we say, slightly more modest. For campers, this is a great home base, located midway between Emerald Lake and Takakkaw Falls. Speaking of Takakkaw Falls, this majestic waterfall is one of the highlights of Yoho National Park, and not to be missed.

On the way to Emerald Lake, stop by Natural Bridge for a look at another one of Yoho National Park’s many wonders. Further west, the hike to Wapta Falls is another highlight.

As soon as 7-year-old T saw the jewel-toned water of Emerald Lake, he was all in. He could not wait to get out on the water! And could he possibly have his own paddle this time? Previously, he was always along for the ride, relaxing in the kayak while the others did all the work. I took a moment to consider, then figured, why not? For the first time, T would ply the waters with his very own paddle in hand.

First, however, we had to prepare the boats. Michael dropped us off near the trailhead while he went in search of a parking spot. It was mid-afternoon and the large lot was overflowing, so we wished him luck and set to work. There isn’t much room to set up, but fortunately few others seem to bring their own watercraft to Emerald Lake. Perhaps the strict permit requirements are a deterrent. After inflating our kayaks, I filled out a permit form verifying that our boats had been cleaned, drained, and dried for more than 30 days since last use.

One by one, we carried our double kayaks through the crowds milling around the start of the trail in search of a place to launch. Emerald Lake doesn’t exactly make it easy, but we found a small open beach a few hundred meters from the parking lot. This must be the place. Of course, if you rent a canoe, you’ll have the privilege of launching from a lovely wooden dock.

Now that the hard work was done, we were all eager to launch. Soon Michael and J were out on the water, paddling toward the lodge. T was eager to join them and pestered me to hurry up. Minutes later, we were all blissfully paddling across the calm waters of Emerald Lake, basking in the glorious mountain views.

T was immensely proud of his newfound paddling skills, telling me how lucky I was to have him as my paddle partner. I agreed, while keeping a close watch on his paddle blades to avoid hitting them whenever possible.

After passing the lodge, we stayed close to shore as we began a counter-clockwise loop around the lake. T was on the lookout for a place to land so he could get out and explore, but we didn’t have much luck. Instead, we enjoyed a snack break while bobbing in the beautiful jade-green water.

As we continued our trip, I was amazed at how the scenery changed. New mountains came into view, and at one point the water turned from a soft aquamarine to a deep turquoise. A barely perceptible haze hung in the sky, the first signs of forest fire smoke wafting toward the Rockies from western B.C. At this point, it was still distant enough to ignore.

As we approached the far end of the lake, we discovered a curious phenomenon. A thick ribbon of milky brown water cut through the lake. Not far from here, a stream of glacial meltwater rushed into Emerald Lake, bringing with it the rock flour that lends the lake its distinctive color. As this glacial silt is distributed throughout the lake, the water no longer appears brown, but rather a cloudy blue-green as the tiny particles reflect the sunlight.

Michael and J were well ahead of us when T and I turned to head back toward the beach. A strong wind picked up, threatening to blow us into shore. Paddling with all my might, I told T to take a break while I steered us back toward our starting point. Sometimes, it’s up to the more experienced paddler to take control.

The winds died down before long, and the final paddle to the beach was smooth sailing. The water was so appealing, that T was soon out of the boat and gleefully swimming toward shore. Heck, I, too, couldn’t resist the call of the lake and went for a quick dip once the kayak was safely ashore. Quick being the operative word here — that water was cold!

Once everyone was dried off, we set to work deflating and drying the boats, while Michael went to get the car. It was now evening and many visitors had left for the day, freeing up a number of convenient parking spots. Tired but satisfied, we loaded up our gear before heading out for dinner. Our trip around Emerald Lake was a beautiful way to finish the day.