Hiking to Wapta Falls in the Canadian Rockies

CURRENT INFO

Maps and reviews for the hike to Wapta Falls are available on the AllTrails website. Planning a trip to the Canadian Rockies? I recommend the guidebook Moon Canadian Rockies by Andrew Hempstead. Visit the Yoho National Park website with Parks Canada for more information.

GOOD TO KNOW

• There is a small parking area at the end of the road by the Wapta Falls Trailhead. It’s also possible to park along the road when the designated parking spaces are full.
• All visitors must pay the national park entrance fee or have a valid annual Parks Canada Discovery Pass to park at the Wapta Falls Trailhead. Check the Yoho National Park website for current information.
• Vault toilets are available at the trailhead.
• Bring water. Potable water is not available along the trail.
• The trail starts off flat and easy, but the final section down to the Kicking Horse River below Wapta Falls is steep and slippery. The dirt here is loose and crumbly, so proceed with care. If this section of the trail isn’t doable for you, you can hike only as far as the viewpoint above Wapta Falls. This still involves some tricky footing, as the viewpoint appears shortly after the trail begins its descent, but it’s much easier than hiking all the way down.
• Wear shoes or hiking boots with good traction. Hiking poles are not required, but may be useful for the steep descent to the river.
• Always follow Leave No Trace principles.

HIGHLIGHTS

Wapta Falls doesn’t come close to being the tallest waterfall in Yoho National Park (that honor goes to Takakkaw Falls), but it wows visitors nonetheless. Here in the Pacific Northwest, I’m used to a narrow cataract plunging from a high cliff, but this massive curtain of roiling water was something new. Of course, it helped that the river flow was strong during our visit. If you like getting wet, believe me, Wapta Falls does not disappoint!

You may notice that the photos for this post have a dusky, greyish-beige tint to them. Sadly, wildfire smoke made its way into Yoho National Park during our visit, and this is the result. Westerners know that forest fire season is unfortunately part of each annual cycle. Without the smoke, the mountain views above the falls would have been much sharper. Nevertheless, we enjoyed our visit. As long as the air quality is safe, a waterfall hike can be a good option on smoky days.

THE KIDS’ TAKE

The sheer intensity of Wapta Falls is thrilling at any age. It’s a tactile experience — the roar of the rushing water, the crunch of the rocks underfoot, and the spray raining down as you approach the falls all work together to get your adrenaline pumping. Sure-footed kids with good footgear can climb the rock pile in front of the falls, but be careful; the rocks are slippery and unstable, and you will get very, very wet.

The rocky beach littered with driftwood downstream from Wapta Falls is a great place to explore and play. Stop for a while, enjoy a snack, and marvel at one of Yoho National Park’s mightiest waterfalls.

WHILE YOU’RE HERE

Yoho National Park may be the smallest national park of the Canadian Rockies, but natural wonders abound. For campers, the best home base is Kicking Horse Campground, where we stayed for three nights. The campground is a short drive from Yoho’s most famous waterfall, the awe-inspiring Takakkaw Falls.

The other big draw at Yoho National Park is Emerald Lake. Our family really enjoyed going for a paddle around this gem of a lake nestled in the Rockies. You can also hike around the lake, and the bold can even go for a swim. Be sure to stop by Natural Bridge on the drive out.

For some high adrenaline fun, head to Golden Skybridge in the town of Golden, British Columbia. It’s a half hour drive west of the Wapta Falls Trailhead, and is a veritable amusement park of outdoor adventures. Walk the suspension bridges, try a ropes course, race down the alpine slide, and zip line across the canyon. Golden is also the place to stock up on groceries and gas while in the area. If you want a break from camp food, check out Reposados, a Mexican restaurant in town serving truly excellent tacos and margaritas.

The first hints appeared at Emerald Lake the day before. It was subtle, but unmistakeable. The sharp outlines of the Rocky Mountains softened, and the sky slowly shifted from bluebird blue to periwinkle. No doubt about, forest fire smoke had come to Yoho National Park.

It was disappointing, sure, but fortunately the short hike we had planned to Wapta Falls didn’t rely on grand vistas. After following the gravel road south from Highway 1 near the western edge of Yoho National Park, we arrived at a small but busy parking lot. Evidently we weren’t the only ones planning to visit Wapta Falls despite the smoke.

The trail to the waterfall starts off nice and easy, and after a short stretch of open trail soon heads into the forest. Surrounded by evergreens with a blanket of greenery covering the forest floor, I felt right at home.

As we neared Wapta Falls, we caught occasional glimpses of the mighty Kicking Horse River, it’s frothing, milky water pummeling through the ravine. At one point, it was joined by the Beaverfoot River, whose clear blue water was quickly swallowed up by the unruly Kicking Horse. Well before we saw it, we could hear Wapta Falls thundering through the valley. A viewpoint along the trail gave us a first look from above the roaring waterfall.

At this point, the trail went from flat and gentle to steep and slippery. A maze of switchbacks, well eroded from frequent use, twisted down the hillside toward the river. This is where trekking poles would come in handy. It’s not a long stretch, but requires careful footing, as the sandy soil easily slips underfoot. The trail also splits near this point. The path to the left is shorter but steeper, while the path to the right takes a little longer, but is less treacherous.

We took the shorter route, then wandered along the beach looking for a proper spot for lunch. The roar of Wapta Falls can be deafening, so it was nice to view it from a distance. The beach is covered with debris washed ashore by the wild waters of the Kicking Horse River, and a great place for kids to explore (just don’t go in the water!). Our two boys delighted in traipsing over fallen logs and broken bits of driftwood.

After our break, we walked back toward the falls. One unusual feature of Wapta Falls is the giant rock pile that forms at its base, the remnants of millions of limestone shards washed downstream before stalling out in the more placid waters below the waterfall. Michael and our older son, J, were eager to get back on the main trail, but our younger son, T, and I couldn’t resist a closer look.

A few other hardy hikers had the same idea. We passed some as they returned along the narrow isthmus that connects the massive rock pile with the riverbank. I had to shout to be heard as we approached the mound, as the spray from Wapta Falls fell like rain.

The base of the rock pile provided a brief respite from the spray, but not for long. “It’s a full on shower!” one man shouted as he made his way back down the jumble of rocks, dripping wet. Cautiously, T and I picked our way up the jagged stones to the crest of the hill. Wapta Falls thundered in our ears as sheets of water blew across the ridge. Within seconds, we were soaked to the skin.

What an experience! I can only recommend it at your own risk (and never on a cold day), but wow! What a way to witness the power of water up close and personal. T and I couldn’t help laughing with sheer delight and amazement.

Fortunately, it was a warm day, and I knew we would dry quickly. As we left the falls, we carefully maneuvered up the steep trail to the overlook. After that, it was smooth sailing as we followed the level trail back to the parking lot.

By the time we reached our car, we were almost completely dry. And was it just my imagination, or was some of the smoke beginning to clear? Regardless, the hike to Wapta Falls had proved to be just right. Maybe someday I’ll visit again on a clear day, but no matter the circumstances, Wapta Falls is worth the trek.