Hiking the Cleetwood Cove Trail in Crater Lake National Park

Looking for more information about Crater Lake?
Check out my Explorer’s Guide to Crater Lake National Park. For a great place to camp nearby, try Farewell Bend Campground.

WE HIKED IT

August 2020, a couple of hours, including a relaxing break by the water

CURRENT INFO

The Crater Lake National Park website has great information about Cleetwood Cove. Check to verify if the trail is open before you go.

GOOD TO KNOW

• Because the Cleetwood Cove Trail is within Crater Lake National Park, you need either a valid National Parks Pass, such as the America the Beautiful Pass, or you can pay the $30 entrance fee. It’s well worth purchasing a pass if you plan to visit other national parks or monuments, or do much hiking in national forest lands. The standard annual pass costs $80. Check to see if you qualify for a free or less expensive pass. For example, fourth graders can get a free pass to use together with their families. Seniors can purchase a one-time lifelong pass.
• This is one of the most popular trails in Crater Lake National Park. Go early, if possible, particularly on summer weekends.
• If you’re taking a boat tour of the lake, this is the trail takes you to the dock. Be sure to plan extra time for the hike down to ensure you arrive before the boat departs.
• A large parking lot and restrooms are located just across Rim Drive from the trailhead. There are no restrooms at the lake, so take advantage of the ones in the parking lot before you start your journey.
• Pets are not allowed on the Cleetwood Cove Trail.

HIGHLIGHTS

Getting to see the fabled blue water of Crater Lake up close is what this hike is all about, and why it’s so popular. While the water temperature is quite cold year round, daredevils love to cliff jump into the lake. Even if you’re not so daring, you can give the water a try by wading in from the rocky shoreline. Bonus: in the shallows, the water can feel quite pleasant on a warm day. Be aware that the shoreline is very rocky, and all swimming is done at your own risk.

THE KIDS’ TAKE

We got off to a bit of a rough start on this hike, but overall, the kids did really well. I was concerned they might drag their feet on the way back up, but J pushed on ahead and was waiting for the rest of us at the trailhead, while T kept a slow yet steady pace with no complaints.

WHILE YOU’RE HERE

You’re at Crater Lake National Park, so there’s plenty more to see! Visit my Explorer’s Guide to Crater Lake to plan your trip. One excellent option is to take the Crater Lake boat cruise, which departs from the dock at Cleetwood Cove. As you continue through the park on Rim Drive, be sure to stop at the Sun Notch Trail as well.

Hoping to camp? While there are a few campgrounds within Crater Lake National Park, there are many other good choices outside the park. We enjoyed our stay at beautiful Farewell Bend Campground on the Rogue River.

“It’s 1.1 miles going down,” the ranger at the Cleetwood Cove trailhead was telling would-be hikers as they arrived. “It’s going to feel more like eleven miles coming back up.”

I don’t know how often he had to repeat this warning; visitors were arriving steadily, and with each new group, the ranger gave his message, including a reminder to bring water and sunscreen, and that there are no restrooms by the lake, only up here by the parking lot.

If you’re an experienced hiker, the Cleetwood Cove Trail won’t intimidate you. But when you’re dealing with an especially popular trail at a national park that sees a wide range of visitors, it’s to be expected that some guests have likely bitten off more than they could chew.

“Really? Eleven miles?” Michael was skeptical, both of this claim, and of how difficult the trail would prove.

“I’m sure they have to say that so people will take the steepness of the trail seriously,” I said. “It’s not for everyone, and they don’t want people making bad assumptions just because it’s only a mile to the lake.”

We started down the wide trail. The first switchbacks were fairly shady, and we could see the sapphire blue lake shimmering below. While there were certainly many others out hiking by this time, the trail didn’t feel too crowded.

Before we knew it, we were at the lake. By this time, some clouds and haze had started moving in. Unfortunately, as is so often the case in late summer, smoke from neighboring forest fires isn’t uncommon. We couldn’t really complain, however, as in this case the smoke was still quite far off. A sizeable patch of blue still dominated the sky.

Along the rocky shore, we found a high perch from which to enjoy a snack with a view. From this vantage point, we could also watch the cliff jumpers plunge into the deep blue waters below. For all you adventure seekers, this is your chance – only here can you jump into the deepest lake in the United States, and one of the deepest in the entire world.

We weren’t up for the adventure ourselves, although it was fun to watch. Instead, we opted to test out the shallow water near the boat dock. It wasn’t a particularly hot day, but the cool water still felt good on our feet, and was warmer than expected. While the average water temperature of Crater Lake is a chilly 38 degrees F, it can warm up into the 50s or even 60s at the surface and in shallow spots.

After taking time to enjoy the experience, we headed back up the trail. J was eager to get back to the car, so forged on ahead, while Michael and I took a slower pace with T. I expected the going might get tough for T, but his stamina and positive attitude took me happily by surprise. Not once did he ask to be carried! We made a couple of brief stops for a drink of water, and were back at the trailhead in about 45 minutes. Michael agreed that the trip back was easier than what he had anticipated. In our case, I’m glad to report that it didn’t feel like anything close to eleven miles.

We took a moment to savor a final view across the lake, then headed to the car. More view and hikes awaited us as we continued our tour around Rim Drive. Cleetwood Cove had gotten us off to a beautiful start.