Hiking the Upper Geyser Basin from Old Faithful

Looking for more to explore in Yellowstone National Park?
Head to Yellowstone Lake for a walk through beautiful West Thumb Geyser Basin, or head north for a fantastic view overlooking Grand Prismatic Spring.

CURRENT INFO

Check out the Yellowstone National Park website for more information on the Upper Geyser Basin and Old Faithful. There are multiple maps and reviews for the Upper Geyser Basin posted on the AllTrails website. This one most closely matches our route, while this one adds on the hike to Observation Point.

When planning a trip to Yellowstone, I recommend the guidebooks Moon Yellowstone & Grand Teton and Moon Best of Yellowstone & Grand Teton, both by Becky Lomax. The former has the most in-depth coverage of these two national parks, while the latter is ideal for a shorter trip.

GOOD TO KNOW

• Since the West Thumb Geyser Basin is located within Yellowstone National Park, you must either pay an entrance fee of up to $35 (valid for up to seven days) or use the America the Beautiful pass (or other national parks pass) to enter. You can purchase an annual American the Beautiful pass ahead of time online, or in person at any entrance station to Yellowstone National Park.
• Check ahead of time to see if you qualify for a free or reduced price pass — seniors, fourth graders and active military do! Fourth graders must print a voucher ahead of time to qualify.
• Restrooms are located in the Old Faithful Visitor Center.
• A vault toilet and picnic table are available near Riverside Geyser, not far from Morning Glory Pool.
• Always stay on the trail. Aside from protecting the delicate thermal features, stepping off the boardwalk or other trails can lead to serious injuries. Steam, scalding water, and thin ground that can break underfoot are real risks in the Upper Geyser Basin and many other areas in Yellowstone.
• Pets are not allowed on the Upper Geyser Basin Trail or most other trails in Yellowstone National Park.
• Always follow Leave No Trace principles.
• There are many ways to shorten or lengthen this hike. For a shorter option, you can do a quick loop around Geyser Hill, then return. You can hike as far as Sawmill Geyser, then loop back to the start. For a longer option, consider hiking out to Black Sand Basin from Daisy Geyser, or going beyond Morning Glory Pool to Mirror Pool.
• For my recommended route through the Upper Geyser Basin, see below.

HIGHLIGHTS

Just the name “Old Faithful” conjures up the iconic image of a grand geyser sending a magnificent plume of spray high above a gasping crowd of onlookers. And yes, crowds and Yellowstone have become nearly synonymous in recent years. Regardless, Old Faithful is worth it. And for those looking to escape the masses, it’s merely an introduction to the wonders that await in the Upper Geyser Basin.

While the Upper Geyser Basin trails may not be entirely crowd-free (especially during peak season), the further you roam from Old Faithful, the fewer fellow travelers you’ll find. What you will find is an incredible landscape that is constantly shifting as turbulent, superheated underground volcanic forces push to the earth’s surface. Thermophilic bacteria create swirls of color, thriving in the heat in which few other living organisms can survive. With new surprises around every corner, the Upper Geyser Basin is truly one of the top sights of Yellowstone National Park.

THE KIDS’ TAKE

Hot springs and geysers and fumaroles, oh my! There are more than enough of the geological wonders to keep kids entertained on a hike through the Upper Geyser Basin. Don’t be surprised if you spot a bison or two as you wander the boardwalks. Be sure to check the geyser eruption times in the Old Faithful Visitor Center, which also has some great interactive exhibits.

With all that said, my younger son got pretty tired over the course of our hike, so your mileage may vary. Fascinating as they are, I find that the kids’ attention spans can only handle so many geysers and hot springs before their minds start to wander. Don’t forget to bring snacks for a little pick-me-up!

As with any thermal area in Yellowstone, it’s vitally important to stay on the boardwalks and trails, and no running or roughhousing is allowed. Make sure your kids understand the importance of following these rules, and keep a close watch on young children.

WHILE YOU’RE HERE

The Upper Geyser Basin is perhaps the most famous location in all of Yellowstone National Park. You can easily spend the majority of your day here, especially if you plan to stick around and catch multiple geysers in action. Aside from hiking the basin and checking out the visitor center, be sure to take a peek inside the Old Faithful Inn. This stunning hotel is the largest log structure in the world.

The General Store is also located near the Old Faithful Visitor Center. In addition to souvenirs and expensive camping supplies, this is also the place to get an ice cream cone or a quick service lunch. During busy times, it can feel a bit like a zoo. For something less touristy, stop by the Yellowstone Tribal Heritage Center, which offers presentations during the summer season and features the works of many Indigenous artists.

From the Upper Geyser Basin, it’s a quick trip south to the West Thumb Geyser Basin or north to Grand Prismatic Spring. I highly recommend both. With so much to experience, plan to spend the night in the park (several nights, ideally). Yellowstone National Park offers many lodges and campgrounds, including our personal home base for four nights, Madison Campground.

Aiming for an early(ish) arrival, we made it to the Old Faithful Visitor Center around 9:30am. Old Faithful was set to erupt in roughly half an hour, giving us time to explore the exhibits in the center and say hi (from a distance) to the lone bison wandering by the boardwalk near the geyser.

As Old Faithful’s eruption time neared, we took our seats on one of the many benches that line the viewing platform. It was mid-October, and although we were hardly the only tourists hoping for a front row seat, I could tell the viewing platforms were clearly created to accommodate far larger crowds.

True to its name, Old Faithful, was, well… faithful, exploding into a fountain of steam and spray within minutes of its scheduled eruption time. It was a fairly brief eruption, lasting not more than a few minutes. After the excitement subsided, we followed the paved Upper Geyser Basin Trail to Castle Geyser. A constant stream of steam billowed from Castle Geyer’s massive vent. I could feel the heat as the wind blew flecks of spray across the boardwalk.

Some of the next features we passed were a little more subdued. At least, that’s how they appeared on the surface. Take Crested Pool, for example. Who knows what lurks beneath those placid blue waters?

From Castle Geyser, we turned right onto the boardwalk and followed it over the Firehole River. Grass sprouted along the banks wherever it managed to find a foothold, surrounded by swaths of barren grey. An occasional streak of brilliant ochre added a vibrant splash of color.

Good, law-abiding tourists that we are, we diligently kept to the boardwalks, our feet never touching the crumbling earth beyond the trail. The bison, however, appear to have no such qualms. How they know to safely navigate these geyser basins is a mystery to me. We spotted several over the course of our hike, calmly napping or nibbling on the scrubby grass.

Turning left at Sawmill Geyser, we followed the boardwalk further into the Upper Geyser Basin. Morning Glory Pool was our ultimate goal, but we passed a number of other oddities on our way, such as the fanciful Grotto Geyser. Part of its unusual shape was created when an old stump near the geyser gradually became encased in gyserite (aka sinter), the silica-rich deposits that build over time as the geyser erupts.

Finally, as our younger son, T, was begging for us to turn around (he’d had enough geysers for one morning), we reached Morning Glory Pool. Signs pointedly tell visitors not to thrown anything into this mesmerizing hot spring. Apparently, so much garbage has been tossed into Morning Glory’s depths that it affected the water temperature. This, in turn, affected the thermophiles that make Morning Glory their home, turning the water at the center of the pool from crystaline blue to deep green. Humans! This is exactly why we can’t have nice things. Thankfully, this pool is still a stunner.

Following our visit to Morning Glory Pool, we enjoyed a snack break near Riverside Geyser. Riverside is one of the predictable geysers and was set to erupt in another 45 minutes… give or take 45 minutes on either side. We weren’t up for what could potentially be a very long wait, so headed back toward Old Faithful. We took a brief detour to walk past Daisy Geyser and out to Punch Bowl Spring. This bubbling hot spring is a bit off the beaten path, but it’s one of my favorites in all of Upper Geyser Basin.

After our little side trip, we followed the paved asphalt path back toward Old Faithful and the visitor center. It’s a nice path, and suitable for bikes, but it’s also a bit boring. And with so much happening in the geyser basin, why not retrace your steps on the boardwalk? You never know what might appear…

We turned left when we reached Castle Geyser again and rejoined the boardwalk. This time, as we passed Sawmill Geyser, we turned right instead of left. This took us toward Geyser Hill, the area directly above Old Faithful. But first, we paused a few minutes to enjoy the show at Sawmill Geyser. Full of spit and vinegar, this one is!

The boardwalk makes a loop through Upper Geyser Hill, and we chose the upper path. This led through yet another alien landscape of kaleidoscopic colors, steaming pools, and delicate geyserite formations. Although it added some time to the hike, I found it well worth the extra steps.

Past Geyser Hill, we continued on the trail as it crossed the Firehole River at the edge of the geyser basin. The scenery here was strikingly different, with lush river grasses and lodgepole pine lining the banks.

Soon, we were back at Old Faithful, where we noticed a significantly larger crowd had gathered on the benches surrounding the geyser. “Is it about to erupt?” I wondered, eager to catch another show.

In the meantime, we spotted a ranger giving a talk detailing the inner workings of Old Faithful. During her very informative presentation, she also happened to mention that we should keep an eye on Beehive Geyser, located just beyond Old Faithful, but still close enough for a good view. It was expected to erupt any time now…

And erupt it did! While we were standing around waiting for Old Faithful to do its thing, a powerful jet of water suddenly blasted into the sky from Beehive’s cone. Although we saw it from a distance, the view couldn’t have been better. From where we stood, a rainbow ribboned across the spray, clearly visible against the backdrop of the lodgepole pines. I was awestruck.

Beehive continued for several minutes, then let out one last little puff before falling silent. Minutes later, Old Faithful pulled out all the stops out for a superb display. This time, it was considerably higher and longer than the eruption we witnessed earlier that morning. Perhaps it wanted to show Beehive that Old Faithful still has what it takes. But no matter the reason, I couldn’t have asked for a grander finale to our hike through the Upper Geyser Basin.