Hiking Misery Ridge and the River Trail at Smith Rock State Park, Oregon

CURRENT INFO

Information about hiking Misery Ridge and the River Trail at Smith Rock State Park is available on the AllTrails website. This hike is also included in the excellent guidebook Best Hikes with Kids: Oregon by Zach Urness and Bonnie Henderson. For general information about Smith Rock State Park, visit the Oregon State Parks website.

GOOD TO KNOW

• There is a $5 fee to park at Smith Rock State Park. You can purchase a pass from the automated machine by the parking lot. An Oregon State Parks permit ($30 for 12 months or $50 for 24 months) also covers the cost.
• A restroom, trash bins, and drinking water is available at the parking lot. There’s also a lovely picnic shelter and viewpoint not far from the lot, giving those who aren’t up for hiking the chance to enjoy the view. Further down the trail, a composting toilet is available near the riverside picnic area. A vault toilet is also located along the River Trail.
• Smith Rock State Park is incredibly popular. We visited on a Wednesday in mid-April, so the crowds weren’t bad, although it was definitely busier in the late morning and afternoon. If you visit in the summer, I recommend arriving very early, to escape both the biggest crowds and the heat.
• The Misery Ridge Trail is steep, quickly climbing nearly 1000 feet over a series of switchbacks. For an easy-going alternative, stick with the Rim Rock Trail (near the parking lot) or River Trail. The gently sloped Canyon Trail leads from the parking lot down to the Crooked River.
• Dogs on leash are welcome at Smith Rock State Park.

HIGHLIGHTS

Smith Rock State Park has become known as one of Oregon’s “seven wonders”. That might sound hyperbolic, but it is indeed a stunning location. And with views like the one above visible from the parking lot, you don’t have to be a hiker to appreciate it! Of course, if you are able to hike, the views just get better. Don’t let the name scare you off — if you’re up for the climb, Misery Ridge is far from miserable. Enjoy nonstop views as you explore this incredible trail.

THE KIDS’ TAKE

“Actually, this place is pretty interesting,” six-year-old T admitted as we walked the River Trail. Indeed, Smith Rock State Park abounds with new discoveries around every corner. We explored small caves, spotted climbers scaling cliffs, and hiked far above the mansions that dot the plain on the opposite side of the Crooked River. The trail was a bit too close to the edge for T’s liking at times, but overall both kids did great hiking up and over Misery Ridge. If your kids aren’t ready for such a strenuous climb, stick with the River Trail or other low elevation options, which can be just as fun to explore.

WHILE YOU’RE HERE

Bend, Oregon, is a hub of outdoor activity, and Smith Rock State Park is just one of many incredible places to visit. Hiking, biking, skiing, paddling — this area has it all. You won’t lack for places to eat and drink, either. On our hike, we picnicked on turkey sandwiches, but I was intrigued by the Terrebonne Depot, a charming restaurant located three miles from Smith Rock. Grocery stores and other amenities are available along Highway 97 just south of Terrebonne in Redmond. In Bend, we recommend 10 Barrel Brewing for excellent food and beer.

With cold, blue skies overhead and high hopes for a snow-free trail, we left Bend for Smith Rock State Park. In half an hour we were at the trailhead, layering up with hats and gloves to fend off the morning chill. Still, the view of Smith Rock took my breath away. No wonder this place is called one of Oregon’s “seven wonders”!

From the parking lot, we descended to a viewing platform that gave us a closer look at the Crooked River below. From there, we chose the steep Chute Trail to reach the grassy field alongside the river. This rocky path really gets the blood flowing, and is a good preamble to Misery Ridge. If you seek something less strenuous, follow the slowly meandering Canyon Trail instead. It’s longer, but much easier on the knees.

Before we crossed the bridge to the opposite side of the river, I paused to view the trail map posted there. As I eyed our proposed route, two women passed by, and asked if we had questions.

“I work here,” one told me. “We’re going to circle around on the River Trail and check out the conditions near Monkey Face.” She recommended we follow a similar route, heading clockwise on the River Trail before attempting to ascend Misery Ridge. A dusting of snow could still be seen higher up on Smith Rock, and they weren’t sure if the trail on the far side of the rock was free from ice. If it turned out to be treacherous, we could always return via the River Trail, and still enjoy some wonderful views.

I figured that following the advice of someone closely familiar with Smith Rock State Park could only work in our favor, so after gathering the family together again (the younger members had wandered off to explore a nearby cave), we began our clockwise loop along the River Trail. The views of the rocks towering above us were inspiring, and few others were out on the trail yet, although we spied a few climbers ascending one of the rock faces. Look closely, and you may spot them, too.

The trail followed the Crooked River closely, winding this way and that. It’s a broad trail, and mostly flat, with only a few gentle hills. On the opposite side of Smith Rock, it eventually splits into two. At this point, we veered uphill to the right, taking the Mesa Verde Trail.

If you don’t want to climb all the way up Misery Ridge, but are up for a little elevation gain, the Mesa Verde Trail is a great option. After climbing steadily uphill, the trail branches once more. Those looking for the full experience can head right up the switchbacks on the Misery Ridge Trail. Otherwise, head downhill to the left as the Mesa Verde Trail loops back to rejoin the River Trail.

Now here is where it gets real — no more lazy riverside ramble, the Misery Ridge Trail will make you work. Fortunately, the views are more than worth the effort, and it’s easy to measure your progress as you rise higher and higher. The boys delighted in watching the cliffside mansions on the opposite side of the river slowly shrink into the distance as we climbed. Monkey Face, a distinctive stone column that juts out from Smith Rock, drew ever nearer.

Once we reached the top of Misery Ridge, we were greeted with expansive views to the west and south. The trail meanders across the rock, and the wide, nearly flat path offers a reprieve from the tough climb. In one spot, a bench provides a place to simply relax and take in the view.

As we crossed to the opposite side of Smith Rock, the views changed dramatically. To the east, the mountains huddled in closer, dusted with a light coating of unexpected spring snow. Thankfully, the trails at Smith Rock State Park, including Misery Ridge, were clear by this time.

It was now time to begin our descent. For me, this was the truly treacherous part, and the one time on this journey that I wished for trekking poles. The loose, sandy rock along the trail is quite slippery, especially on the way down. Fortunately, the views were reason enough to pause frequently, and occasionally a series of stairs eased the way.

The rest of my family was soon far ahead of me. As the photographer of the family, I’m used to this, and snapped a photo of them as they made their way down Misery Ridge. As I headed down, I glanced back toward Smith Rock, taking in how far I’d already come.

Finally, as I rounded a bend, the Crooked River came into view once more. It was the home stretch! The kids and Michael were already at the bridge, but I was in no hurry, and paused to take it all in.

Besides, home stretch or not, there were still a lot of stairs to go!

At the bottom of the trail, we enjoyed lunch at picnic table near the bridge. As we were eating, the same two women passed by us once more. “You made it!” they cheered, and we grinned. Now, there was just one short uphill trail between us and our car.

More people passed by; the trails were definitely busier in the early afternoon. We made the most of the final trek to the car, the boys whooping with glee when they beat Daddy to the top as they climbed the steep, rocky Chute Trail while he chose the easier but longer Canyon Trail. Even with a trail called Misery Ridge, hiking at Smith Rock State Park is a sheer delight.