Sledding & Snowshoeing at Heart O’ the Hills, Olympic National Park

GOOD TO KNOW

Heart O’ the Hills is a campground, not a snow park. For bigger winter thrills, drive all the way to Hurricane Ridge, which features a tubing hill, snowshoe routes, Nordic skiing, and even a few small downhill ski runs. In 2021, lift tickets at Hurricane Ridge cost between $20 and $45 dollars, and tubing was $14 per hour. Heart O’ the Hills is a low-cost alternative if you don’t have the time (or appropriate vehicle) to drive all the way to Hurricane Ridge, but just want a little low-key play time in the snow. It’s ideal for families with young children or those looking for a quiet place to snowshoe in the forest.

Since Heart O’ the Hills is within Olympic National Park, you may have to pay an entrance fee. When we went, we were told there was no fee if we only visited Heart O’ the Hills, which lies just beyond the park entrance station. If you plan on going elsewhere within the park, including Hurricane Ridge, you need a valid national park pass or you can pay an entrance fee ($30 per car). Olympic National Park also sells its own annual pass for $55.

Heart O’ the Hills Campground is officially open year round, but sites are walk-in only in the winter. Plan to park by the gate when it’s snowy, and be aware that there are only a few parking spots. Check the “A” loop if you need a toilet. If closed, you can access toilets at the Olympic National Park Visitor Center, five miles down the road. Dogs on leash are welcome within the campground. How long does the snow last? The best answer is that it varies. If there’s snow in Port Angeles, there’s sure to be much more here. At other times, check directly with the Olympic National Park Visitor Center before you head out.

HIGHLIGHTS

Heart O’ the Hills is set in a beautiful forest, and the chance to see it in the snow felt like a privilege. It may not have the most exciting sled runs, but walking through this winter wonderland without the crowds that flock to the snow parks was enough for me.

THE KIDS’ TAKE

Snow, glorious snow! When we visited Heart O’ the Hills, the snow was already disappearing from Port Angeles just below. They were thrilled to be back in the thick of it, even if the sled runs were a little on the slow side.

WHILE YOU’RE HERE

Another 12 miles up the road from Heart O’ the Hills is Hurricane Ridge, one of the crown jewels of Olympic National Park. When skies are clear, Hurricane Ridge offers unparalleled views of the Olympic Mountains at any time of year. In winter, it’s also a fantastic place to snowshoe, ski, or sled. Honestly, if you’re visiting Hurricane Ridge in winter, there’s little need to stop by Heart O’ the Hills. Instead, I see Heart O’ the Hills as an alternative for those who are already on the Peninsula but don’t want to (or can’t) drive to Hurricane Ridge, or who prefer more solitude.

So, what pairs well with a winter visit to Heart O’ the Hills? Since it’s only ten minutes from Port Angeles, there are plenty of places for a bite to eat nearby. We got lunch from Frugals, a classic burger drive-through that’s been around for decades. There are also many stunning spots on the North Olympic Peninsula to visit at any time of year. Two of the best are breathtaking Lake Crescent, located west of Port Angeles, and Dungeness Spit to the east. This region is rich in natural beauty; take some time to savor it.

We didn’t plan to come to Heart O’ the Hills. The idea had been to head to Hurricane Ridge, lured by the prospect of a mountain of snow for sledding, surrounded by the cut-glass peaks of the Olympics. But first, we stopped by the Olympic National Park Visitor Center to check the road and weather status. The road to Hurricane Ridge was open, but the mountaintops were shrouded in clouds. As usual for this time of year, all cars were required to carry chains or similar traction devices. We had a dilemma: our friends didn’t have chains for their car. Also, did we want to drive 17 miles uphill to the snow park on a cloudy day and pay to play, knowing we’d only have one hour there, maybe two?

“Is there any place else we could sled?” I asked the ranger at the visitor center.

“You could try Heart O’ the Hills,” he said, indicating the spot on the map. “It’s only five miles from here. You can park outside the gate and walk in to explore the different campground loops.”

This sounded like just the ticket – no long drive, no need for chains, and no extra fees. In fact, it turns out we didn’t need to pay a cent — when we passed through the Olympic National Park entrance station, just before the entrance to Heart O’ the Hills Campground, the ranger there told us no fee was required to visit Heart O’ the Hills. This is probably because the campground isn’t a big draw in winter. There are no groomed trails for snowshoeing or skiing, and there are no major sled runs. You also don’t get the views for which Hurricane Ridge is famed.

But from our perspective, none of that mattered. We were looking for a place to play in the snow and had found it! Just past the entrance station, we pulled up to the gate at Heart O’ the Hills. Only one other car was there when we arrived, but no other people were in sight. Ahead of us, beyond the gate, a road blanketed in pristine white snow sloped gently through the forest.

From prints in the snow, it was obvious that others had been here before us, but there were no other signs of human activity. Of course, now that we were here, the boys ran gleefully ahead with their sleds, their young voices ringing through the trees. My friend and I decided to give our snowshoes a try. I soon discovered that walking in snowshoes while walking a dog was perhaps more trouble than it was worth. After tripping when Buddy stepped on one of my snowshoes, I decided that my boots would do just fine.

We meandered past a couple of campground loops looking for the best sled run. Unfortunately, none of the roads were quite steep enough to get up much speed. With a little effort, you could still get a good run, but it was pretty tame. After some exploration, we headed back to the entrance, figuring that first hill was probably the best. There, just within the gate, we spotted a short but steep path in the trees leading down to the road. Perfect! Well… except for that boulder sticking out of the ground.

Fortunately, our friend had the brilliant idea to test the slope by sending one of the sleds down empty. It narrowly missed the boulder, but that was good enough. The boys headed up to take a turn, prepared to bail if needed. Meanwhile, the dads busied themselves turning the rock into a sled jump by packing more snow around it. Will anyone be surprised when I tell you that no one was bold enough to actually try it? No? Let me tell you, having seen this so-called “jump” for myself, I’m glad to know our children are in fact capable of making smart decisions (at least sometimes). No broken arms for this crew!

After a little more time for snowballs and sledding, it was time to go. Ready for lunch, we left the snow behind as we drove back down to Port Angeles. That is, we left it mostly behind. There was still enough for snowballs in our friends’ yard overlooking the Strait of San Juan de Fuca. Of course, that couldn’t compare to the sense of wonder and discovery we had exploring Heart O’ the Hills.