Paddling Lake Ozette on the Olympic Peninsula

Looking for more hikes and things to do in and around Olympic National Park?
Head south on the coast to explore Rialto Beach & Hole-in-the-Wall. East of Lake Ozette, hike to Sol Duc Falls and soak in the hot springs, or walk to a secluded beach at the Lyre Conservation Area. And if you’re visiting Lake Crescent in summer, don’t miss the chance to swim at Devil’s Punchbowl!

SWIM

Important Note: As with any water source, safety is a primary concern. Lake Ozette is large, cold, and deep, and can experience significant swells when the wind picks up. Always be mindful of weather and currents, and keep a close watch on children.

Personally, I prefer to paddle Lake Ozette rather than swim in it. This is not to say that I wouldn’t jump right in on a hot day, because I certainly would! It just lacks the sparkling clear blue water of Lake Crescent and other such showy beauties, and I have to admit I’m a sucker when it comes to a cool, clear swimming hole.

The water at Lake Ozette is nonetheless clean and swimmable. It’s cold (but not glacial), and its proximity to the coast means the weather here is often cool, even in summer. The lakeshore is thick with vegetation that can make entering the lake challenging, and there is no designated swimming beach. You can enter the water from the dock at one of the boat launches, or from the small day use picnic area located in Lake Ozette Campground. The lake bottom is rocky, with some silty and muddy areas.

PADDLE

First, a few important safety notes: Be aware that winds frequently blow north to south down the length of the lake. Since the boat launches are located at the north end, many paddlers head south when they launch. On the return trip north, strong headwinds are common. Pay close attention to the weather, which can change quickly, and stay near shore if the weather is rough.

As the third largest natural lake in Washington State, not to mention one of the wildest lakes easily accessible by road, Lake Ozette is a fantastic place to paddle. We visited on a Saturday, yet had the water almost completely to ourselves. Motor boats are allowed, but you don’t see too many on the lake.

With only minimal development on the northeast end of Lake Ozette, much of the shoreline remains in its natural state — wild and woodsy. This means it can be a challenge to find good places to pull ashore, but keep an eye out. We had great fun exploring Garden Island on our trip. Ericsons Bay is another good place to land, and offers several campsites. Power paddlers may want to travel all the way to Tivoli Island at the south end of the lake. Keep an eye out for wildlife, including bald eagles, loons, and possibly even bears.

GOOD TO KNOW

• Since Lake Ozette lies within Olympic National Park, be sure to hang an America the Beautiful pass (or other national parks pass) in your car window. Some individuals, including veterans and fourth graders, may qualify for a free pass. You can also purchase a $55 pass valid only for Olympic National Park, or pay a $30 entrance fee (valid for up to seven days) at a park entrance booth.
• Please note that there is no park entrance station for Lake Ozette, so you must purchase a pass elsewhere ahead of time or pay the entrance fee at the parking lot. Personally, I recommend the America the Beautiful pass, because it covers entrance fees for all national lands, not just national parks. In Washington State, this covers many trailhead parking fees on National Forest land.
• A large parking lot is located at the end of the road in Olympic National Park near the ranger station and Cape Alava Loop trailhead.
• This trail is quite popular, so the parking lot can fill on weekends. Most people that park here are hikers, so even when the lot is full you typically won’t see many people on the lake.
• There are two boat launches at this end of Lake Ozette. One is found across from the ranger station, where you’ll also find restrooms and trail information. The other is located about a mile down the road before you reach the ranger station.
• Parking and a boat launch are also available at Swan Bay. The turnoff for Swan Bay is 3.5 miles before the Ozette Ranger Station. I’ve read that it’s free to park here, but can’t vouch for this.

• If you need gas, fill up in Clallam Bay before heading to Lake Ozette. There is a small store with food and camp supplies at The Lost Resort at Lake Ozette, but it’s quite pricey. The Lost Resort Store also sells coffee and makes hefty sandwiches to order, which I recommend for lakeshore picnics.
• There are numerous boat-in campsites on Lake Ozette. Campers must purchase a permit in advance at the WIC (Wilderness Information Center) in Port Angeles. When camping on the lake, all food must be stored in bear canisters. If you don’t own a canister, check with the WIC to see if one is available on loan.

HIGHLIGHTS

Lake Ozette feels vast and remote, luring you in with its wild beauty. If you’re looking for someplace where you can spend a full day (or more) paddling away from the crowds that flock to the most popular sights in Olympic National Park, this lake is for you. Highlights for our family include spotting a loon and hearing its lonely call, and going ashore to explore Garden Island.

THE KIDS’ TAKE

Both the kids were raring to get out in the kayak on Lake Ozette! Honestly, I’m not sure what prompted such enthusiasm, but who am I to look a gift horse in the mouth? Because we were out all afternoon, it was tiring for five-year-old T, but he hung in there and did us proud. As an introvert, the lack of other people at Lake Ozette had a strong appeal for 10-year-old J. The highlight for both was exploring Garden Island, just like real adventurers!

We were out for at least five and a half hours, the longest kayak trek we’ve done with the kids so far. It wasn’t always easy, but since they didn’t have to paddle, they really couldn’t complain (too much). Lake Ozette can be a wonderful family paddle, but please keep the following in mind:

• Make sure everyone is wearing a life vest.
• Bring plenty of snacks, water, and extra layers of clothing. Pack supplies in dry bags, as your boat will likely take on some water.
• Expect that on your return trip (assuming you are heading north) you will have head or sidewinds. Turn around before you are tired with the expectation that the trip back will be more difficult and take longer.
• Don’t push yourself beyond your level. Stick close to the shore and keep your trip short if you are a novice paddler and the water is rough. Keep in mind that this is a remote area. There may not be other boats around to rescue you if you run into trouble, and you may not have cell service.
• Remember that weather conditions change, often quickly. The water is usually the most calm in the mornings and evenings. If you head out in the morning, don’t be surprised if the winds pick up when you return in the afternoon.

WHILE YOU’RE HERE

Does Lake Ozette sound like your kind of vacation? You can camp here! Ozette Campground, with 15 first-come, first-served sites, is located at the north end of the lake in Olympic National Park. Intrepid paddlers can also overnight at several different boat-in campsites along the lake. A wilderness permit is required. Just beyond the park boundary, The Lost Resort at Lake Ozette offers campsites, cabins, and a small general store. The Lost Resort store is a great place to pick up sandwiches for your journey, or a coffee if you’re in need of caffeine. Hikers should plan extra time for the Cape Alava Loop, a trail to a gorgeous, wind-swept beach with camping opportunities (reservations required).

Of course, there is much to see and do here in Olympic National Park. Heading further south on the coast? Check out the incredible Rialto Beach. Sol Duc Valley is another lovely area to visit, with a hot springs resort and a hike to an elegant waterfall. For a low-key option, venture outside of Olympic National Park to the Lyre Conservation Area for a forested walk to a quiet beach on the Strait of Juan de Fuca. You can also venture to Cape Flattery in the Makah Nation, the most northwesterly point of the contiguous 48 states. Please note that as I write this, the Makah Nation reamins closed to visitors due to the pandemic, but will hopefully reopen in fall, 2021.

Michael and I first visited Lake Ozette oh-so-many years ago, when we were in our youthful twenties. We drove out with only one goal in mind: to hike to Cape Alava and back. We succeeded in our goal, but were also delighted to find a small, nearly empty campground on the north shore of the lake. These were the days before camping reservations, and we were thrilled to find such a prime spot to spend the night. While we hadn’t been back for many years, the memory of that first visit remains strong.

With that in mind, I wasn’t exactly surprised when Michael mentioned his desire to return to Lake Ozette on our recent trip to the North Olympic Peninsula. Even though it was more than an hour’s drive from our campsite at Fairholme on Lake Crescent, the chance to revisit was undeniably appealing. So it was that we headed out on an overcast Saturday morning amidst a smattering of raindrops.

Our ultimate goal was the Lake Ozette ranger station at the end of Ozette Lake Road. Somewhat confusingly, the lake is commonly called both “Lake Ozette” and “Ozette Lake”. I’m sticking with Lake Ozette, as that’s how I first came to know it. Shortly before we reached the national park boundary, we turned right into The Lost Resort. In the chilly air, we warmed ourselves over cups of coffee while we waited on our made-to-order sandwiches.

With our sandwiches packed, we drove down to the lake. We pulled the inflatable kayak from the car and got right to work. I was grateful for the small dock, which gave us an easy entry point into the water. Five-year-old T fit nimbly in the stern, J positioned himself between my knees in the center, and Michael took his seat in the bow. It was certainly a full boat, but the Aquaglide handled the load admirably.

Soon we were gliding across the dark water, waves lapping lightly at the sides of the kayak. Despite the clouds, the weather was warmer now, actually quite comfortable for paddling. A small motorboat raced by as we headed out, but it soon turned back toward shore. It would be hours before we saw another boat on the water.

As we made our way south, we discovered we had some company after all. To our left, a loon bobbed in the water, just close enough for us to make out its distinctive shape. A faint, mournful call echoed over the waves — once, twice, then a final third time as it drifted out of sight.

Now, we puzzled over something else in the distance. Was that a boat on shore? A dock? As we drew nearer, we saw it was indeed a boat resting on shore near a lovely campsite. By now we were definitely hungry, and this was the most inviting place to pull ashore that we’d yet seen. But Lake Ozette is a place of solitude, and we didn’t want to disturb the campers. On we paddled.

Further along the shore, we realized that our choices were limited. Any place we could manage to pull ashore would have to do. Spying a small rocky patch among the brush, we nudged the bow gently ashore then scrambled onto dry land. Using our lifejackets as seat cushions, we nestled in among the bushes, enjoying the view across Lake Ozette while we devoured our sandwiches. I’m happy to report that The Lost Resort does not skimp on sandwich fillings; we were all more than satisfied. Then again, doesn’t food always taste better when you’re on an adventure?

After lunch, Michael had a second destination in mind. On the opposite side of the lake, we could see one of Lake Ozette’s three islands. Why not head there? I agreed to give it a try, and soon we were paddling across to the east side of the lake.

Michael’s first objective was to paddle around the entire island and scope out the possibilities. After doing a full loop, we pulled ashore on the northwestern side, not far from another campsite. We gently edged the kayak onto the shore, careful not to scrape the skeg against the rocks. Before I even stepped on land, the boys were off and running, eager to explore our very own island.

The island was a delight to explore. While the ground is rocky and often covered in vegetation, this just adds to the feeling of having discovered something wild and untamed. Of course, the campsite on the western shore was a clear sign that we weren’t the first people to arrive here. But the campers were gone, probably off on their own expedition, so we had the place to ourselves.

Over one hundred years ago, settlers built a homestead here. The homestead didn’t last, and no signs of it remain other than some of the plants they brought with them. The people may have left, but the plants stayed, giving this place its name, “Garden Island.”

Eventually, it was time to return to the mainland. We squeezed back into the kayak, which had taken on some water during our trip to the island. Enough water, as it turns out, that we soon decided to pull ashore north of the island at Rocky Point. Fortunately, the Aquaglide comes equipped with drain valves. With some tilting and lifting, we managed to drain most of the extra water weight.

Now, we were on our way again, gliding effortlessly through the water! OK, not quite so effortlessly. The wind had picked up and swells pushed against the boat. I found myself paddling solely on the right, attempting to keep the boat angled away from the shore. At least we were moving forward; on this section of the lake, a number of small cabins dot the shore, and I could watch us slowly pass them one by one.

Little by little we edged northward, fighting the wind and waves. I wasn’t exactly surprised by our battle, as the breeze had been at our backs on the trip south. The intensity was unexpected, however, and a good reminder of how quickly conditions change. Earlier, I gave J the chance to paddle a few times, but now it was up to the adults. Although the wind wasn’t overwhelming, we had to paddle continuously to keep moving ahead.

Truth be told, even though the going was tough, I rather enjoyed it. Here I was on a wild remote lake in a lone kayak with my family, surrounded by nature. True, the kids (mainly T) were now anxious to return, and Michael was frustrated by our slow progress. Still, we were making progress, and each dip of the paddle brought us closer to our goal.

Finally, as we neared the end of our voyage, the swells subsided. In the meantime, our kayak had taken on more water, and the kids’ seats were thoroughly wet. Once we reached the dock, they rushed eagerly out of the boat, only to discover that their legs had turned to jelly. Happy, relieved, and tired, we couldn’t help laughing. After a few minutes sitting on the dock, they were up and running once more, their legs as good as new. Glad as we were to be back, it had been a wonderful adventure, one we wouldn’t soon forget.