Idyllic Orcas Island offers so much to explore, from evergreen clad hills and sparkling lakes to picturesque villages with a flourishing local food and art scene.
This guide will introduce to some of the best Orcas has to offer, but of course, there is always more to explore!
Information is subject to change, so check the websites linked throughout this guide for the latest updates.
ABOUT ORCAS ISLAND
Orcas Island is the largest island in the San Juans, an archipelago located in northwestern Washington State near the Canadian border. It’s the most mountainous of the San Juan Islands, and features beautiful parks, hiking trails, and lakes, as well as charming villages, laid back resorts, and rolling farmland. There are no chain restaurants, stores, or hotels on the island. It’s all about local small businesses here, and many make the most of the local producers.
There’s so much more to Orcas than what I list here, so please use this guide as a jumping off point for your own explorations. I’ll update it as we revisit the island as well. If you’re looking for a guidebook or two to help you plan your time, I recommend Moon San Juan Islands by Don Pitcher and Day Hiking the San Juans & Gulf Islands by Craig Romano.
WHEN TO GO
You can visit Orcas any time of year. It’s located in a rainshadow, so receives less rain than the Seattle area, with mild temperatures year-round. With that said, just as you would expect, winter is chillier and wetter than summer, so plan your activities (and your wardrobe) accordingly.
Unsurprisingly, summer sees the most visitors, while winter is much quieter, and some businesses may close for the season. But even in summer, the fact that you’re on an island with somewhat limited accommodations means you won’t see too many mid-week crowds. These limitations also mean it’s in your best interest to book advance reservations whenever possible.
HOW TO GET THERE
Unless you are lucky enough to have access to your own boat or plane (or can spring for pricey plane tickets), the best way to reach Orcas Island is by Washington State Ferry. The trip from Anacortes to Orcas takes about an hour, and you must arrive at the ferry departure point at least 45 minutes prior to your scheduled departure time.
Ferry costs vary by season and by what size vehicle you are bringing, so check the Washington State Ferry website for current pricing, schedules, and to make advance reservations. Advance reservations are strongly recommended in peak season, especially for weekend travel, otherwise you risk having to wait many, many hours before boarding.
To give you an idea of cost, we paid $120.00 in 2022 to travel round trip from Anacortes to Orcas and back for four people with our car and teardrop trailer. That may sound expensive, but when you compare it to the cost of four plane tickets, well… Also, keep in mind that if you aren’t bringing a trailer or large RV, the cost for driving on in your car will be lower.
What about walking on the ferry? I wouldn’t recommend it unless you’re on a bike trip or someone is picking you up on the island. Orcas Village, where the ferry docks, isn’t much of a village, although it does have a couple of places selling food and drinks, as well as a nice spot to picnic while waiting for the return ferry. If you really want to see Orcas, you’ll want to go further, and driving is definitely the easiest way to get around.
Frankly, I only recommend going to Orcas if you are spending at least one night, preferably two or more. It’s a lot of time to spend on the ferry (not to mention waiting in line for the ferry) for only one day, unless a beautiful ferry ride is your end goal, in which case – go for it! But don’t be surprised if you find yourself wishing you were spending the night!
WHAT TO DO
There’s a lot packed into this small, rural island, particularly if you enjoy the outdoors. With a car, it’s easy to get around, and an active traveler can do a lot in one day. But part of the joy of the islands is slowing things down, so don’t be afraid to relax a little.
Important Note: If you plan to visit one of the state parks, such as Moran State Park or Obstruction Pass State Park, be sure to bring your Discover Pass. If you don’t have a pass, you can purchase one at some locations within the parks. If you are camping in the parks, your campground pass covers the day use fees during your stay, so a Discover Pass is not required.
- Moran State Park is the big draw for many, with camping, hiking, boating, swimming, and fishing opportunities (see the “Hike” and “Swim & Paddle” sections below for more details). Even if you aren’t camping here, Moran State Park is no more than a 30 minute drive from many other points on the island, and only ten minutes from Eastsound. On a clear day, be sure to drive (or hike) to the top of Mount Constitution for an amazing view of the surrounding islands and Mount Baker. A stone watchtower at the summit provides an even higher vantage point, and the small visitor center and gift shop is worth a stop.
- Obstruction Pass State Park may be small, but it provides access to one of the most beautiful beaches on Orcas Island. With its rocky shoreline, Orcas doesn’t have many beaches, so this short hike to the shoreline is real treat.
- Turtleback Mountain Preserve, on the wast side of Orcas Island, also showcases amazing hikes and views.
- Eastsound is the place to go if you’re looking for the big city… er, I mean the small, charming village. While Eastsound is the island’s largest town, it’s still small and very walkable. For its size, it has an abundance of high quality restaurants, and, like any good tourist town, interesting shops to peruse (no kitschy souvenir shops here). There’s a small town park, and on the east side of town you’ll find Crescent Beach, one of the few accessible beaches on Orcas. There’s even a little hiking trail through the woods near the beach.
- Olga, a tiny hamlet on the east side of Orcas Island, is well worth a visit. There you’ll find Orcas Island Artworks, a beautiful gallery featuring local art of all kinds, located alongside Lascaux Café. Further down the road, stop by Buck Bay Shellfish for fresh seafood to take home or to enjoy in their bistro.
- Orcas Island Pottery on the west side of the island is a great stop for all ages. Yes, all ages. One look at their magnificent tree house and you’ll know what I mean. There’s also a swing set to keep the younger crowd entertained. Featuring a variety of local artists, Orcas Island Pottery is the perfect place to shop for a special island souvenir. Normally, I’m not one for souvenir shopping, but these are true works of art. With many affordable pieces, we couldn’t resist purchasing a few to being home with us.
- Orcas Island Winery is also located on the west side of the island. In addition to wine tastings, they host a variety of events throughout the year. Pets and families are welcome in the wine garden.
WHERE TO STAY
Since the outdoors is the focus on My Backyard & Beyond, I’m going to talk about camping. But if you don’t want to camp, no worries! Orcas Island offers a range of accommodations from small historic resorts to bed-and-breakfasts or vacation rentals. And if you’d rather camp in style, Moran State Park even offers some “glamping” sites for rent.
- Moran State Park hosts four beautiful campgrounds. We’ve camped at Midway Campground a few times and love the proximity to Cascade Lake. For prime lakefront campsites, check out South End Campground, but book early — those sites go fast! The North End Campground offers wooded campsites across from the Cascade day use area. For something a little more remote and rustic, check out Mountain Lake Campground on the shores of Mountain Lake. Reservations should be made in advance online.
- Doe Island Marine State Park is located on a tiny island just offshore from Orcas Island near Doe Bay. Boat-in campsites are available.
- Obstruction Pass State Park offers hike-in or boat-in campsites on a wooded bluff above the beach.
What about something with a little more comfort? There are many options, but a few classic Orcas resorts include Rosario Resort & Spa, Doe Bay Resort & Retreat, and various lodging in Deer Harbor. Even if you aren’t overnighting at these locations, they offer cafés and other services for visitors.
FOOD & DRINK
If you’re camping or staying at a vacation rental, you can keep a tighter budget and cook your own food, but if it’s within your means, I highly recommend trying some of the local restaurants. There are no chain restaurants on Orcas Island, and these small businesses play a big role in the island economy.
Click on the restaurant names below to visit their websites for up-to-date information. We’ve personally tried and enjoyed all of the places below. Please keep in mind that island prices may be higher than what you’re used to on the mainland, especially as many restaurants make an effort to source local and/or organic ingredients.
EASTSOUND EATERIES
BROWN BEAR BAKING
Come to Brown Bear for excellent French and American style pastries, or takeaway sandwiches for lunch. The coffee is also quite good.
CLEVER COW CREAMERY
Offering delicious locally made ice cream and more, this shop is a family favorite. For something a little less sweet yet very refreshing, try a shrub, a pleasantly acidic infused vinegar drink.
DARVILL’S BOOKSTORE
OK, so this is a bookstore, not a restaurant, but they also have a coffee bar that serves great coffee. Plus, independent bookstores are always worth a visit, and this one is no exception. Check out their kids’ section and local books.
MIJITAS
Fresh, vibrant Mexian food is the specialty here. They have a large outdoor seating area, and colorful inside seating as well.
OLGA RISING
Olga Rising is another great spot for pastries, sweets, and lunch options. There isn’t much seating here, but you can head to the park across the street or to Eastsound Waterfront Park for a meal with a view.
HOULME
Houlme is the reincarnation of a previous restaurant, Hogstone. It served wood-fired pizzas with a strong emphasis on local ingredients. Although we haven’t been back since it changed names, I can say that the pizza we enjoyed at Hogstone was stellar, and this is definitely a place I hope to revisit.
ISLAND HOPPIN’ BREWERY
Of course Orcas has its own brewery, and of course the beer is great. They have a small snack menu, but you can also bring in your own food to enjoy at one of their outdoor tables (we brought Hogstone pizza to celebrate Father’s Day with pizza and beer – yum!).
VOYAGER SANDWICHES
Come to Voyager for hearty takeout sandwiches next door to Clever Cow Creamery. It’s a great option to bring on a hike.
BEYOND EASTSOUND
BUCK BAY SHELLFISH
At Buck Bay it’s all about the seafood — shellfish, yes, but also salmon and fish and chips. The menu changes to accommodate what’s fresh, and the quality of the seafood and accompaniments is excellent. Buck Bay Shellfish is open seasonally, so check the hours before you go.
DOE BAY CAFÉ
OK, so I haven’t yet eaten at Doe Bay Café, but it’s so darn cute I couldn’t leave it off the list. The Doe Bay Store is also worth a peek. Even if you aren’t staying at the resort, you’re welcome to eat at the café and the view from the grounds is stunning.
LASCAUX
Lascaux is housed in the same rustic space as the Olga Art Gallery. Featuring local artists, the works on display here are stunning. Take your time browsing, then relax with a pastry and coffee from Lascaux. Or come for lunch, when they serve wood-fired pizzas and other tasty dishes.
SUGAR SHACK
Nothing says summer like an ice cream cone from Sugar Shack on the shores of Cascade Lake! We love this cute little shop, which also sells coffee, hot dogs, and more. In keeping with the (delicious) local vibe, the ice cream served is from Lopez Island Creamery. Sugar Shack is typically open from mid-spring through mid-fall.
HIKE
Orcas Island has numerous hiking options, ranging from short easy jaunts to all day treks. I highly recommend visiting the WTA (Washington Trail Association) webpage to pre-plan your hikes. Another great resource is Craig Romano’s book Day Hiking the San Juans & Gulf Islands, especially if you plan to do additional hiking in this region. Cell phone coverage can be spotty, and having a physical hiking guidebook with you is a great reference when you’re on the trail.
Many of the island’s trails can be found within Moran State Park. On the opposite side of the island, Turtleback Mountain Preserve is another park with several great hikes. You’ll also find some lovely short trails at Obstruction Pass State Park.
Important Note: If you plan to hike in Moran State Park or Obstruction Pass State Park, be sure to bring your Discover Pass. If you don’t have a pass, you can purchase one at some locations within the parks. If you are camping in the parks, your campground pass covers the day use fees during your stay, so a Discover Pass is not required.
- Cascade Falls in Moran State Park can be tailored for a shorter or longer hike. You can even tie it together with the loop around Cascade Lake. Beautiful Cascade Falls is the highlight, along with a few smaller waterfalls.
- The Cascade Lake Loop follows an easy path around Cascade Lake with little elevation gain. You’ll get gorgeous views of the lake, and can cap your hike off with an ice cream cone from Sugar Shack.
- Mount Constitution is the high point on Orcas Island. While you can also drive to the top, it’s a great place to hike for those who are up for a climb. The trail offers stunning views over the Salish Sea and quiet forested paths far from the crowds.
- The Obstruction Pass Loop follows a short, easy trail to a beautiful beach, one of the few accessible beaches on Orcas.
SWIM & PADDLE
Being surrounded by water, it’s no surprise that Orcas Island is a great place to go boating. Kayak tours are popular, and can take you to a variety of smaller, uninhabited islands nearby. You can even camp on some of them! If you’re an experienced open water kayaker, you may have the skills to go out on your own, but otherwise booking a guided trip is definitely the way to go. For information about different companies offering rentals and tours, visit the Orcas Island Chamber of Commerce website.
Cascade Lake and Mountain Lake are ideal for novice paddlers. Scratch that, they’re a joy for paddlers of any level. Bonus: If you like to swim, these are great spots for a dip when the weather is warm. Cascade Lake has a small swimming beach that’s just right for young children, along with a playground and picnic area. Across the lake, jumping off the wooden footbridge into the Lagoon is an island tradition. In the summer, you can enjoy ice cream from Sugar Shack and rent kayaks or paddle boards from Orcas Adventures.
For an introduction to saltwater paddling, launch your kayak from Crescent Beach in Eastsound. This protected area is one of the few easily accessible beaches on the island. Paddle around Madrona Point to tiny Indian Island for a fun and easy trip. You’ll never be far from shore, so it’s a great beginner outing. If you don’t have your own boat, you can rent one from Crescent Beach Kayak Rentals.
I hope you enjoyed my guide to Orcas Island.
If you have any favorite places, let us know in the comments. From my backyard to yours, happy exploring!
