Hiking to Middle & Upper Falls on the McCloud River

Want more of McCloud?
Camp near the McCloud River at Fowlers Campground or take a dip in the emerald green swimming hole below Lower Falls.

WE HIKED IT

July, 2021, around 2 hours

CURRENT INFO

Find information and trail maps on the AllTrails website. More information is also available on the U.S. Forest Service website.

GOOD TO KNOW

• There are three day use parking lots along the McCloud River for each of the three waterfalls.
• Parking is free.
• Picnic tables, vault toilets, and garbage bins are available.
• Pets on leash are welcome.
• The trail is also accessible from Fowlers Campground, which is where we began our hike. If you’re not camping, I recommend parking at either Lower Falls or Upper Falls to do the full 3.6 mile hike and see all three waterfalls.
• Because you can park near each waterfall, it’s also easy to tailor the hike to fit your needs and timeframe. For example, if you want to skip the steep section of the hike, you can hike from Lower Falls to the base of Middle Falls, then turn around and head back to Lower Falls. You can then drive to the Middle Falls parking lot, where a short, paved trail leads to a higher viewpoint. From there, it’s possible to hike or drive to Upper Falls, whichever you prefer. It’s a choose your own adventure kind of place!
• Swimming at Lower Falls is popular in summer, while Middle Falls draws the Instagram crowd. Experienced swimmers enjoy swimming in the pool below Middle Falls, but I don’t recommend it for young children.
• These areas can get quite crowded, so arrive early if you want solitude. Away from Lower and Middle Falls, you’ll find far fewer people.
• Warm, sunny weather is typical in summer, but winter can bring snow. Check weather conditions before attempting to hike in the winter season. The trail is mostly shady with a few exposed areas.
• Always follow Leave No Trace principles.

HIGHLIGHTS

Two gorgeous waterfalls (three including Lower Falls) along a beautiful forest trail in California’s Cascade Mountains make this an irresistible short day hike. Enjoy a break near the river at Upper Falls, or go for a swim at Lower Falls to make the most of your visit.

THE KIDS’ TAKE

After a day spent swimming at Lower Falls, all the kids really wanted to do was… swim some more at Lower Falls! We assured them this hike was short and easy (and that they could go swimming at Lake Siskiyou afterwards). It’s a fun romp through the forest, but be careful on the trail to Upper Falls. I held on to my five-year-old’s hand at one point where the trail was dangerously eroded. Thankfully it took only a few steps to cross this potentially treacherous section.

While the pool below Middle Falls isn’t a great place for young children to swim (head to Lower Falls for a better option), the river is calm and shallow at the picnic area above Upper Falls. It’s a wonderful spot to relax and play with the kids without the crowds.

WHILE YOU’RE HERE

The McCloud River is so lovely, why not stay for a few days? Fowlers Campground was a big hit with our family. You can hike directly from the campground to Middle and Upper Falls, and it’s a short walk to the swimming hole at Lower Falls. Speaking of Lower Falls, if you like beautiful swimming holes, don’t miss this one! It’s easy to add it on to your hike to Middle and Upper Falls, as they are all located along the same trail. This is a great way to lengthen your hike.

Looking for coffee? Stop by Sojourn Coffee (formerly Clearwater Coffee & Kitchen) in the nearby town of McCloud. They also serve a delicious breakfast. If you prefer a hearty meal, don’t miss Yaks Shack in the town of Mount Shasta, where they serve an array of mouthwateringly creative burgers. West of I-5, head to Lake Siskiyou for more hiking, swimming, and boating.

After a leisurely breakfast at camp, we walked twenty feet to the trailhead for Middle Falls. Yes, it was quite a trek! If you’ve read some of my other reviews, you may know I love hikes that start right in the campground, no driving required. Here at Fowlers Campground, our site was ideally situated for getting out on the trail.

You might assume that the downside to this location would be a constant stream of hikers past our campsite. But fear not — this was not at all the case. While others occasionally passed by on the trail, it was far enough from our site that it didn’t feel invasive. And really, the number of passers-by were few and far between. While both Lower and Middle Falls are undeniably popular destinations, the fact is that most people don’t hike between the two. Instead, they park at the day use lots near the waterfalls, leaving much of the trail for others to enjoy in relative solitude.

So it was that we encountered few other hikers as we made our way to Middle Falls. We did, however, pass a young buck grazing mere steps from the trail. He quickly bounded away, but our hike was off to an auspicious start! It was a pleasantly warm, sunny day, and we caught glimpses of the McCloud River as we ambled through the forest. This section of the trail is easy and flat, and it wasn’t long before we heard the sound of rushing water ahead of us.

One glimpse of Middle Falls was all I needed to understand just why this place was so beloved. In early July the water level was already low, but the delicate tendrils of flowing water over the mossy cliff gave it an ethereal beauty. Reaching the pool below the waterfall requires clambering over a jumbled mass of boulders, but a number of visitors had already made the trek. One appeared to be staging her own personal photo shoot near the base of the falls. We stayed close to the trail and enjoyed the view from one of the many boulders.

Upon leaving Middle Falls, we immediately began the ascent up the sides of the canyon. This is the only steep section of the hike, and it’s also the busiest, as it leads to the Middle Falls parking lot. Most visitors park here, walk the short, paved path to the upper viewpoint, then trudge downhill to see the falls from below. While steep, the trail is in good shape, and it’s manageable if you’re comfortable with stairs and a few switchbacks.

We took a moment to appreciate the view of Middle Falls from above (stunning!), but didn’t stay long as this area was noticeably busier. Leaving the crowds behind, we headed onward to Upper Falls.

Once again we had the trail mostly to ourselves. Now, we hiked far above the McCloud River, following a narrow trail. The path skirted rough rock walls that sometimes gave way to dirt — loose, sandy dirt that slid easily underfoot. The trail here was severely eroded. Stepping gingerly across one exposed section, we tried not to look down at the tiny ribbon of the McCloud River more than a hundred feet below.

Past the danger zone, we caught our first glimpse of Upper Falls pouring through a narrow chasm in the basalt cliffs. Another inviting aquamarine pool lay out of reach below the falls. While some daring souls make their way down, there is no trail and the steep, erosive canyon walls make this inadvisable. Stay safe and protect the environment by sticking to the designated trail.

As we neared the parking lot for Upper Falls, we caught a final view of the waterfall from above. It’s impressive to see how the McCloud River has whittled through these massive cliffs over millions of years, a visual reminder of the immense power rivers wield.

One benefit to Upper Falls’ inaccessibility is that it sees far fewer visitors than Middle and Lower Falls. A few cars were parked at the day use area, but we saw no other people. A lone picnic table sat near the edge of the stream, just waiting for someone to take a seat and rest their feet. We were happy to oblige.

The McCloud River was calm here, and the smooth surface of the water reflected the greens and browns of the forest. While it was too shallow for swimming, we remarked that it would be an ideal spot for wading. Had we not already made plans to head to Lake Siskiyou that afternoon, I’m sure we would have tried it out. Instead, we satisfied ourselves with a snack and enjoyed the view from the shore.

The hike back offered more views of the McCloud River as it wound its way to Middle Falls. Even on an out-and-back hike, I always discover something new on the return trip. It’s amazing how a shift in perspective changes the experience. This time, I came face to face with Mount Shasta peeking through the trees. On the way out, I had missed the mountain completely.

The time passed quickly, and soon we were back at our campsite. The entire afternoon lay ahead of us, and our hike to Middle and Upper Falls had gotten the day off to an excellent start. I could hardly wait to see what was next!