Paddling Maligne Lake in the Canadian Rockies

Looking for more fun things to do near Maligne Lake?
Be sure to stop by beautiful Maligne Canyon for an unforgettable hike. For more lake vistas, head to the Valley of the Five Lakes along the Icefields Parkway.

SWIM

I admit I did not swim in Maligne Lake. Enticing as it may look, that water is ice cold. My older son, who jumped in the lake on a dare from his dad, can attest to that.

Still, on a hot day, I would definitely take a dip, even if only a quick one. Like many other high mountain lakes, Maligne Lake’s water is incredibly clear and free from weeds. Compared with Emerald Lake in Yoho National Park, there’s less glacial silt (rock flour) found in Maligne’s waters, which greatly increases the clarity. In the shallows, you can easily see the rocky lake bottom.

PADDLE

On a calm, clear day, I can think of few better places to paddle than Maligne Lake.

We were fortunate to experience ideal weather conditions on our visit, but this is certainly not always the case. High winds, rain, and cold weather can make a trip here hazardous if you aren’t prepared. Although quite large, the lake is relatively narrow, and I recommend sticking close to the shore when possible for safety.

Ready to get out on the lake? If you plan to bring your own boat, there’s one very important thing to know first. All watercraft must be cleaned, drained, and dried for a minimum of 30 days after use in any body of water outside British Columbia, Alberta, or the Canadian Territories. That’s right, 30 days. If used in the aforementioned provinces and territories, then it only needs to have been dry for 48 hours.

The intent of this seemingly draconian measure is to prevent the spread of invasive species, so please take it seriously. I repeat this same information again in the “Good to Know” section below to emphasize its importance. I did not see self-certification permits at the Maligne Lake boat launch, but please be prepared to attest that you have followed these rules.

If you don’t have your own boat, canoes, kayaks, and pedal boats are available for rent from Maligne Lake Boat Rentals. Single kayaks cost $65 CAD per hour, while double kayaks and canoes cost $80 CAD per hour. Yes, it’s pricey, but on a beautiful day it can be well worth the cost.

Looking to spend more time on Maligne Lake? Overnight camping is allowed, but requires purchasing a backcountry permit in advance. There are several well-maintained campgrounds along the lake. We kayaked as far as the first one, Hidden Cove, which is only 4 kilometers from the boat launch. Check the Parks Canada website for further information on how to plan your trip.

GOOD TO KNOW

• Maligne Lake is extremely popular. Arrive early or late in the day for the best parking options. Since most visitors do not bring their own watercraft, the boat launch usually isn’t too busy.
• All visitors must pay the national park entrance fee or have a valid annual Parks Canada Discovery Pass to park at Maligne Lake. Check the Jasper National Park website for current information.
• Restrooms are available by the parking lot.
• Paddlers bringing their own boats onto Maligne Lake must be able to certify that your boat has been cleaned, drained, and dried for a minimum of 48 hours after being used elsewhere within British Columbia, Alberta, or the Canadian territories.
• If used in the U.S. or elsewhere in Canada, your boat must be cleaned, drained, and dried for a minimum of 30 days since last use. Yes, you read that right — 30 days. This rule is intended to mitigate the spread of invasive species, so please make sure your personal watercraft meets this requirement. I did not see a certification forms at the boat dock in our visit, but please complete one if forms are available.
• Only non-motorized boats are allowed on Maligne Lake.
• When bringing your own boat, you can park briefly by the boat launch to unload your gear. The parking lot is close to the launch, so you may find it easy enough to carry your gear from the lot.
• Overnight paddle trips are possible, and require purchasing a backcountry permit in advance. Camping is allowed only at designated campsites along the lake. Since Maligne Lake is more than 21 kilometers long, this is the only way to experience the full scope of the lake.
• For a short trip, I recommend paddling to Hidden Cove. This charming campground is just four kilometers south of the boat launch.

• Maligne Lake Boat Rentals rents canoes, kayaks, and pedal boats for those who don’t have their own. Canoes and double kayaks are $80 CAD per hour, while single kayaks are $65. Pricey, yes, but for some this is a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
• The Maligne Lake cruise is the most popular way to see Maligne Lake, no paddling required. These electric tour boats are the only motorized boats allowed on the lake. The cruise takes visitors to Spirit Island and back, farther than you can kayak in one day. As you can imagine, tickets aren’t cheap, but on a beautiful day the trip can be well worth the cost.
• Three eateries serve food at Maligne Lake in season, The View, Lake House Café, and Waffle Hut.
• Always follow Leave No Trace principles.

HIGHLIGHTS

Ringed by the Canadian Rockies and endless evergreens, the pearlescent blue-green water of Maligne Lake beckons. On a clear day, it tops the list of things to do in Jasper National Park. Even if you can’t get out on the water, pause here to slow down, relax, and soak it all in. Many visitors choose to do the lake cruise, which takes you to the iconic Spirit Island, and I’ve no doubt it’s a glorious trip. But for me, the chance to get out in our kayaks and ply the waters for ourselves can’t be beat. We may have only made it as far as Hidden Cove, but paddling Maligne Lake was the high point of my entire summer.

THE KIDS’ TAKE

On such a beautiful day, even the kids were eager to get out and kayak. Hidden Cove, located four kilometers south of the boat launch, was a great destination for a quick trip, and the kids were so excited when we pulled into the dock at this tiny campground. Along the way, there was plenty more to explore, from the rocks visible below the water’s surface in the shallows to to the miniature “sea cave” we discovered.

When the water is calm, as it was on our visit, a short day trip like this is a great way to introduce the kids to paddling. For us, the trip to Hidden Cove and back only took a few hours including plenty of time to explore the campground. Of course, this will vary depending on experience and weather. With more time, kids who are strong paddlers will enjoy the chance to go even further.

WHILE YOU’RE HERE

Be sure to stop by Maligne Canyon on your way to or from Maligne Lake. The short hike through the canyon is full of wonders. On a clear day, Medicine Lake is also well worth a stop for more incredible views.

Past Jasper Townsite, head south on the Icefields Parkway to reach the Valley of the Five Lakes and Mount Edith Cavell, two other stunning hiking locations in Jasper National Park.

We camped at Whistlers Campground, a good central location from which to explore the heart of Jasper National Park. The campground is huge, and well equipped with flush toilets and hot showers. Jasper Townsite is located only ten minutes from Whistlers, and has all your necessities covered — gas, groceries, a laundromat, and numerous restaurants and cafés. We enjoyed a delicious dinner at Jasper Pizza Place after our kayaking adventure at Maligne Lake. The Bear’s Paw Bakery or BeaverTails are good places to pop in for a treat.

Originally, I planned to visit Maligne Lake on our first full day in Jasper National Park. But you know what they say about “best laid plans”, and with wildfire smoke clouding the skies, I couldn’t bring myself to make the trek. This wasn’t the Maligne Lake experience I dreamed of, so I decided to wait.

It wasn’t until our final full day in Jasper that the skies fully cleared. Rain over the previous few days had washed away the smoke, scrubbing the atmosphere clean. Soft white clouds trailed across the baby blue sky.

Our family had scheduled a guided rafting trip on the Athabasca River that morning. It was a thrilling day to be on the water, and by the time our trip finished and we ate our lunch, I honestly wasn’t sure if we should attempt the hourlong drive to Maligne Lake.

But attempt it we did, and I am so, so glad we made the effort. The drive itself was gorgeous, and we made a brief stop to appreciate the stunning views of the mountains surrounding Medicine Lake.

By the time we arrived at Maligne Lake, even the kids were excited to get out and paddle. With spirits high, we set about carrying our inflatable kayaks down to the public boat launch. A handful of other paddlers milled around the dock, but clearly most visitors bypassed this modest spot, opting to explore the lake by cruise boat instead.

The turquoise water rippled gently as we headed out in our two small boats. From the water, the views of the mountains grew even more magnificent. Only the occasional passing of a cruise boat broke the silence (that and the gleeful shouts of my children).

Our goal was Hidden Cove, located a mere four kilometers south of the boat launch. On the way, we admired the clear water of Maligne Lake. Near shore, it provided a fascinating view of the rocky lakebed. Michael and J became obsessed with one particular rock they spotted below the surface. When they finally managed to pull it up, they found that it was just another rock, not so different from the rest. It was merely the mystical water of Maligne Lake that lent it an indescribable allure.

As long as you stay near shore, Hidden Cove is impossible to miss. A wooden dock greeted us as we paddled across the shltered water of the cove. What a perfect place to pull the kayaks ashore! The boys eagerly scampered off to explore the small campground. Giggles erupted when the found the camp toilets — open to the air with only a simple three-sided shelter to provide a little privacy.

The campground offered several clearly marked campsites, a fire pit, and bear boxes for food storage. Adding to its charm, a rustic warming hut stood near the dock. Campers are encouraged to bring firewood with them from the pile near the boat launch. Beyond the hut, a wooden bench that had clearly seen better days provided a place to rest and soak in the view.

We saw only one camper during our time at Hidden Cove, and he was probably relieved when our family left, leaving him in peaceful solitude. On the return trip, we swung by an intriguing monolith that stood in the shallows, peering into the tiny sea cave at its base.

Before we knew it, we were back at the dock. J plunged into the frigid water on a dare from his dad (a pack of Magic cards was at stake), treading water for a full minute before coming back ashore. “It wasn’t worth it,” he moaned through chattering teeth.

But aside from J’s polar bear plunge, our time on the water was pretty darn perfect. Someday, I would love to return to paddle the entire length of the lake, camping along the way. For now, Maligne Lake lives on in my dreams, and oh, what sweet dreams they are!