Hiking to the Beach at Fudge Point, Harstine Island, Washington

Looking for more beautiful beach hikes in the South Puget Sound?
Check out my review of Tolmie State Park near Olympia.

CURRENT INFO

The Mountaineers website has good information about hiking to Fudge Point. This information is also included in the book Urban Trails Olympia by Craig Romano.

GOOD TO KNOW

The property around Fudge Point was acquired by Washington State Parks in 2013. Future development is possible, but for now, Fudge Point is one of many “secret state parks” — properties that lack the funds for development, and are therefore not promoted or advertised. The only indication that this is a state park are a few signs that mark the trailhead, a trail junction, and the beach. There are no toilets, garbage bins, or designated parking. To access the trail, park alongside the road, and be sure not to block the road or any driveways. Dogs are allowed on leash. Please pack out all garbage and respect the private property adjacent to the park. Probably due to the lack of development, a Discover Pass is not currently required, and parking along the road is free.

HIGHLIGHTS

Fudge Point showcases a sweep of sand seldom found in the South Sound. Yes, much of the intertidal area is rocky (like most of Harstine Island), but between the forest and the rocks lies a broad sandy swath of shoreline, perfect for relaxing. Sure, it’s a little rough, but still… it’s sand! On clear days, look for a stunning view of Mount Rainier. Low tide is the best time to explore, when geoducks squirt and living sand dollars appear in the tide flats. Not only is the beach magnificent, but the walk to reach it is a joy, leading through a forest filled with slender white-barked alder.

THE KIDS’ TAKE

This is a wonderful hike for kids! The beach can occupy them for hours, especially at low tide. It’s perfect for beachcombing, sand castle building, and so much more! Not only that, but the gravel trail to the beach is great for running without parents worrying that their kids will literally run into anyone — there’s more than enough room for everyone on the wide path.

WHILE YOU’RE HERE

Harstine Island lies hidden away in the South Puget Sound, where it receives far less attention than its more famous island siblings to the north, like Whidbey and the San Juans. The fact that the island has no town and consists mostly of private residences and vacation homes keeps it quiet, but there are a few other small state parks worth exploring.

Near the northern tip of the island, Jarrell Cove is a beautiful place to launch your boat and camp. Just north of Fudge Point, McMicken Island is a charming spot for boaters to explore. At low tide, you may even be able to reach this tiny island on foot from Harstine. North of McMicken Island is Harstine Island State Park, where another trail winds its way to the beach. While it isn’t as impressive as Fudge Point, it’s a beautiful beach nonetheless, and the short hike through second growth forest is decidedly different from the walk to Fudge Point. Felling hungry after your hike? Stop by Big Bubba’s Burgers in Allyn, located north of Harstine Island on State Route 3.

I first heard about Fudge Point a few years ago when researching hikes and parks near Harstine Island. I’ve been visiting the island since childhood, overnighting at my great-aunt’s cabin, and was intrigued to discover a new state park. There wasn’t much information about the park online, which receives nary a mention on the official Washington State Parks website, but this made it all the more alluring.

We visited Fudge Point over Memorial Day weekend. Despite its “unofficial” status, a Washington State Parks sign indicated we were at the right place. Fortunately, only a few other cars were parked alongside the road, so we managed to find a spot near the entrance gate. Our friends met us there, making a happy reunion of kids, parents, and dogs.

On a sunny afternoon, the walk along the old forest road to the beach felt just right. The kids had plenty of room to run and jump, while the adults enjoyed a peaceful stroll. After a brief, gentle uphill section at the start, the road leveled out for the remainder of the hike. Eventually, we came to a junction where another Washington State Park sign alongside a gate indicated the correct path to our left. Other routes lead to private property, and are not open to the public.

Before long, the trees ahead of us parted, revealing blue sky and a sliver of pale sand. Where the road ended, a glorious beach spread out at our feet with a captivating view of Mount Rainier in the distance. The kids leapt on the sandy shore, delighting in the way it sank beneath their feet. Sand beaches are a relative rarity in the South Puget Sound, and always sure to invoke joy. Beyond the sand, the low tide revealed a wide expanse of seaweed-draped rocks and oyster beds.

With the kids well occupied by the sand, my friend and I headed north toward Fudge Point. A grassy meadow edged with driftwood spread across the point. Arriving ahead of us, Michael had already staked out the ideal log from which to sit and enjoy the view across Case Inlet.

The tide flats here were vast and sandy, the perfect environment for clams, particularly that most infamous of all Pacific Northwest mollusks, the geoduck. All across the tide flats, a symphony of squirts appeared one after another. In shallow saltwater rivulets, you could even see the tips of the geoducks’ necks lazing above the surface. For the uninitiated, they appear rather alarming, and… well, you can draw your own conclusions as to why! But they’re highly prized among clammers, and even inspired a song called, appropriately, “The Gooey Duck Song”. And yes, I know all the words — why do you ask?

Not only were the geoducks plentiful, but we also found dozens of moon snail egg cases and live sand dollars. Pictured above, moon snail egg cases resemble the top of a broken Grecian urn finely coated in sand. Live sand dollars, unlike the bleached skeletons typically found lying on the beach, are recognized by their covering of downy purple spines. Such treasures are only found during a good minus tide, so check the tide tables before you visit.

I couldn’t keep these riches to myself, and called out to my youngest son, T, and my friend’s daughter to join us. Soon, they were chasing down goeduck squirts, looking to spot the clams before they disappeared into the muck (unsurprisingly, the name goeduck means “dig deep” in the native Nisqually language). They hunted down abandoned sand dollar skeletons and sidestepped the moon snail egg cases, making countless new discoveries.

Eventually, we made our way back to the beach near the trailhead, where the other kids were busy digging holes in the sand. They covered the holes with seaweed and branches, hoping to fool unsuspecting younger brothers (no one was fooled). The dads sat nearby with their dogs, enjoying a comfortable seat among the driftwood.

No one was in a hurry to leave, but as evening crept closer we realized it was time to go. As we started back down the trail, the kids discovered a garter snake lurking in the grass. T was delighted, but Michael hung back until he was sure the snake was gone. He’s not a fan of snakes, to say the least.

Once again, the kids ran on ahead. Much like our walk out to the beach, we passed few people on the return trip. Back by the cars, we lingered before saying a final goodbye. It may have been our first trek to Fudge Point, but it certainly won’t be the last.