Looking for more hikes in the California Redwoods?
Try hiking the beautiful Prairie Creek Loop or incomparable Stout Grove.
LOCATION
Fern Canyon lies within Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park, California. To reach the trailhead, it’s a rough and winding ten-mile drive down Davison Road off Highway 101. Prairie Creek is one of the four parks that operate jointly as Redwood National and State Parks.
LENGTH
1.1 mile lollipop loop, with the option to go further and extend your hike beyond the canyon
DIFFICULTY
Easy — Although not ADA accessible, the Fern Canyon trail is flat and wide, but pebbly. Expect to cross the shallow creek frequently as you make your way through the canyon. In some places, boards have been placed to create footbridges, but chances are your feet will get wet. When we hiked Fern Canyon in August, it was comparatively dry, but at other times you may end up wading.
WE HIKED IT
August, 2020, about an hour
CURRENT INFO
For information and current conditions for Fern Canyon, visit the National Park Service website. Trail reports are available on the AllTrails website. This hike is also included in the book Hike the Parks: Redwood National & State Parks by John Soares. If you plan to spend at least a few days hiking in this region, I highly recommend this book. It has great information, and its small size is perfect for packing along on a hike.
GOOD TO KNOW
- It’s only a ten-mile drive to Fern Canyon from Highway 101 along Davison Road, but be prepared for it to take a good half hour or longer. Davison Road is narrow and winding, and it’s imperative that drivers go slow to avoid run-ins with oncoming traffic. It’s also incredibly dusty, so much so that it appears almost as if you’re driving through a black-and-white forest. On the other hand, if it isn’t dusty, it’s probably muddy, so expect a dirty car either way. During the last section, near Gold Bluffs Beach, several streams cross the road, creating deep ruts and puddles. One is especially challenging to navigate – pick your route carefully before crossing. I don’t recommend cars with low clearance, although we certainly saw some at the trailhead.
- An $8 fee is collected at the entrance station to Gold Bluffs Beach and Fern Canyon, but a valid America the Beautiful pass or California State Parks pass covers this cost.
- A port-a-potty is available at the trailhead.
- Pets are not allowed on the Fern Canyon Trail.
HIGHLIGHTS
With vertical fern-lined walls creating an emerald maze through the forest, Fern Canyon is simply enchanting. I admit I’d like nothing more than to have the place to myself and drink in the serenity of this magical spot, but Fern Canyon is too popular for solitude. Instead, go knowing that you will be privileged to share this space with so many others from around the world.
THE KIDS’ TAKE
We hiked the Prairie Creek loop earlier in the morning, so the kids weren’t super enthused about another hike. Still, they had to admit that Fern Canyon was pretty cool. Plus, it’s short, so they really didn’t have time to complain. But the big highlight for all of us was the grey fox we saw before we even reached the trailhead! You never know when you might luck out with a wildlife sighting of your own.
WHILE YOU’RE HERE
Fern Canyon is situated near Gold Bluffs Beach in Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park. You can access this wild and often windy beach not far from the Fern Canyon trailhead. There’s a campground, too, but it’s for tent camping only, as trailers and RVs are not allowed on Davison Road. Those wanting a lengthier hike can combine Fern Canyon with other longer trails, such as the James Irvine Trail and Miner’s Ridge. Elsewhere in Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park, try the Prairie Creek and Cathedral Trees Loop, an excellent trail that’s easily accessible from the Prairie Creek Visitor Center. Not far from the visitor center is Elk Prairie Campground, where we stayed during our visit.
If you’re hungry, stop by Edebees Snack Shack on Highway 101 in Orick for burgers and elk plop (aka tater tots smothered in nacho cheese).
Our Experience
Fern Canyon is perhaps the most famous hike in the California Redwoods, and with good reason. Walking through the fern-draped cliffs of the canyon feels like entering a mystical fairyland. Even with throngs of visitors, the magic persists. Of course, Fern Canyon was also featured in the movie Jurassic Park II, so feel free to blame Hollywood for some of its popularity. Fortunately, since the canyon floor is wide, the trail usually doesn’t feel overly crowded. To avoid the biggest crowds, visit in the off season, or go early or late on a weekday.
Michael and I first hiked Fern Canyon over a decade ago, BC (Before Children). On that October visit, we had the canyon to ourselves. While the hike was easy, our Pontiac Vibe barely survived the trip. Before we reached the trailhead, an enormous puddle – a small lake, it seemed – overtook the road. But we were so close to our destination that we were loathe to give up, and decided to forge ahead. No mere puddle could stop us! The Vibe carried us through, but several days later in Pasadena, we noticed a distinctively musty smell emanating from the floor mats. We hadn’t escaped unscathed after all.
On this trip with the kids, we came better prepared in our Mazda CX-5. Sure enough, the nefarious puddle was still there. In fact, there were a few water crossings, but one definitely stood out as the biggie. This time, after carefully choosing the best route, we made it across cleanly.
We weren’t yet at the trailhead, when suddenly another surprise crossed our path. Up ahead, I saw a small creature in the road. It was a grey fox! Excitedly, I stopped the car, and called for the kids to take a look. The fox was quite close, and I expected it to bolt into the forest at any moment. Instead, it stopped and stared at us.
“Michael, your phone! Take a photo!” I whispered urgently.
Michael fumbled with his jacket, searching for the phone. “I don’t have it ready!” Just as he found it, the fox finally bounded into the brush. So it is that we have no photographic record of the encounter, only memories. But isn’t that what matters?
We finally arrived at the trailhead, where we were fortunate to find a spot amongst the many cars already there. Unlike our previous visit, this time, on a weekday afternoon in August, we shared Fern Canyon with dozens of others. Thankfully, the canyon is wide, so social distancing wasn’t too difficult. We wore masks, as did many others.
Michael and four-year-old T took off into the canyon – no lingering for them! J, meanwhile, took the opportunity to work on his Junior Ranger booklet in a scenic spot. This gave me some time to admire the delicate ferns and moss lining the ravine walls. As we wandered the rest of the canyon together, J happily splashed in the creek, while I stuck to the low footbridges.
At the end of the canyon, stairs lead up to the return trail, a soft dirt path through the woods. Many people choose to hike back through Fern Canyon instead, so the upper trail is relatively quiet. Those looking to extend their hike will find signs pointing to other connecting trails. Be sure to check into these options ahead of time if you’re interested, either at the Prairie Creek Visitor Center or with a reliable hiking guide or app (I recommend the book Hike the Parks: Redwood National & State Parks by John Soares or the AllTrails hiking app).
As we neared the end of the hike, the upper trail offered a lovely view into Fern Canyon below. Now that it was late afternoon, fewer people were on the trail. We headed back to our car, the boys still bounding down the trail with energy to spare.
This time, we didn’t pass any foxes on our drive. We made it through the giant puddle with relative ease and settled in for the long, bumpy drive. Was it worth it? Would I do it again? Yes, it was, and yes, I would.
