Hiking the Black Elk Peak Trail in South Dakota

Looking for more fun things to do in Custer State Park?
Try the hike through Sunday Gulch, or go for a swim in Sylvan Lake!

WHAT’S IN A NAME: BLACK ELK PEAK

Black Elk Peak has long been a sacred place for the Lakota people. More recently, it has also become a popular destination for hikers. Those who hiked it in previous decades, however, may not be familiar with the name of Black Elk. For many years, the highest peak in the Black Hills was instead known as Harney Peak. In 2016, that finally changed.

The previous namesake, William Harney, was an army general who led violent raids against the Lakota in the 1850s. To refer to this sacred place by such a name was painful, local Native American groups asserted. Instead, they proposed the peak be renamed after Nicholas Black Elk, an Oglala Lakota medicine man who fought at Wounded Knee. After reviewing the proposal, the U.S. Board on Geographic Names approved the change. For more information about the name change, visit the Black Hills Visitor webpage.

When you visit the Black Hills, the Paha Sapa to the Lakota, you are on sacred land. By remembering this, we honor the importance this place holds for the Lakota in the past, present, and in the future.

CURRENT INFO

A map for the Black Elk Peak and Little Devil’s Tower Loop Trail is available on the AllTrails website. Visit the Custer State Park website for general information about the area. While the main trailhead for Black Elk Peak is in Custer State Park, the peak itself is on national forest land. Visit the U.S. Forest Service website for more information about the Black Elk Wilderness.

GOOD TO KNOW

• Custer State Park has a $20 per vehicle entrance fee. When you pay, you’ll receive a pass for your car window that is valid for seven consecutive days. If you don’t yet have a pass, you can purchase one from the entrance station southwest of Sylvan Lake on Highway 87.
• Parking is limited. Arrive early to avoid congestion both in the parking lot and on the trail. This is a very popular spot! In summer, expect to share the trail with numerous other hikers.
• A second trailhead for the hike is located along the Needles Highway just east of Sylvan Lake. This smaller lot is popular with hikers doing an out-and-back hike to Little Devil’s Tower, but works for the longer loop hike as well. A vault toilet is available.
• Restrooms and drinking water are available at the Sylvan Lake trailhead. There is also a general store near the south parking lot that sells souvenirs and a limited selection of food and drinks.
• Leashed pets are allowed on the trail.

• Remember to pack the 10 Essentials. Water, shade hats, and sunscreen are extra important on sunny days. The summer sun can be intense and parts of the trail are very exposed. Get an early start to beat the crowds and the summer heat.
• The hike to Black Elk Peak is strenuous, but doable if you are comfortable with steady elevation gain and some rocky trail surfaces. Because the trial isn’t overly steep and is easy to follow, we found it less strenuous than the nearby Sunday Gulch Trail. Although Sunday Gulch is shorter, the terrain is definitely rougher and the trail is more exposed. Climbing to Little Devil’s Tower involves some scrambling up and down narrow rock channels where you need to use both your hands and feet. If this isn’t a good fit for you, skip this side trip.
• Wear shoes or boots with good traction.
• For an easier hike, try the Sylvan Lake Trail. This one-mile loop is mostly flat, although there is a brief hilly section near the dam, and offers superlative views of the lake.
• Always follow Leave No Trace principles.
• Wondering if the Black Elk Peak Loop is a good fit for you? See the “Our Experience” section below for many more photos and an overview of what to expect.
• Want an even longer hike? Add on another short side trip to Cathedral Spires.

HIGHLIGHTS

The Black Elk Peak Trail takes you into the heart of the Black Hills. Here atop the highest peak east of the Rocky Mountains, stone pinnacles and spires are scattered across the landscape in every direction. Not only is the view fantastic, but the hike itself is a joy, taking you through shady pine forests and past more inspiring rock formations too numerous to count.

THE KIDS’ TAKE

If your kids are ready for a longer, more strenuous hike, Black Elk Peak is a great choice. The trail itself is fun, with twists and turns and peek-a-boo views as you gradually ascend the summit. Once at the top, the historic lookout tower and surrounding rocky hillsides are a blast to explore. We could have easily spent even more time up here. Kids (adults, too) will also love finding quartz, mica, and all kinds of shimmering stones embedded in the rocks along the trail.

The scramble up Little Devil’s Tower is great for adventurous kids, although mine were feeling tired and chose to sit this part out. My older son regretted his choice once he heard how much fun his parents had, however!

WHILE YOU’RE HERE

The Black Elk Peak Trail begins and ends at Sylvan Lake, a great place to unwind after a long hike. Relax by the lakeshore, go for a swim or paddle, or simply float lazily on the water at this beautiful lake. An easy trail follows the lakeshore. For a more adventurous option (if you still have the energy), try the hike through Sunday Gulch. It’s also possible to extend the Black Elk Peak hike by adding a short side trip to Cathedral Spires.

There is much more to see and do in Custer State Park. Drive the scenic Needles Highway, which connects Sylvan Lake with the center of the Park. Another popular drive is the Wildlife Loop, with opportunities to see bison, pronghorn, the begging burros, and more. The park also had a wonderful visitor center and the Peter Norbeck Outdoor Education Center offers an extensive list of free programs for children.

Looking for food? The Sylvan Lake General Store has a few pre-packaged options. On summer weekends, a grill stand near the general store sells burgers and hot dogs. If it’s not the weekend, or if you want a more refined atmosphere, drive to nearby Sylvan Lake Lodge. We splurged on a delicious lunch here following our Sunday Gulch hike. Don’t worry — coming in your hiking gear is A-OK (at least in the afternoon). Bon Appetit!

With so much to do, you might as well spend the night. Better yet, spend several! We camped at nearby Bismarck Lake Campground. Custer State Park also offers several campgrounds (beware — they fill up far in advance), cabins, and historic lodges.

On our trip to South Dakota, I had one big hike on the agenda: Black Elk Peak. Sure, other hikes were also planned, but they were paltry in comparison. Black Elk Peak would be epic. After all, this is the highest peak east of the Rocky Mountains.

Considering that status, the climb to the top of Black Elk Peak is pretty doable. As you may expect, it’s also quite popular. To avoid heavy crowds (and to find a good parking spot), we arrived at the Sylvan Lake trailhead around 8am.

The trail starts off on a broad sandy path, which climbs gradually away from Sylvan Lake and into the woods. I was fascinated by the geology of the trail, which is literally studded with quartz crystals and flecked with mica. Photos don’t do it justice, but the trail actually glittered in the early morning sunlight.

After an initial exposed section, the trail led into the forest. Although it was still early in the day, I appreciated the shade. I also appreciated the viewpoints, which provided glimpses of the fantastic topography of the Black Hills, with Black Elk Peak far in the distance.

There were already many other hikers on the trail, but thankfully it didn’t feel overly busy. We could easily walk at our own pace, and when our youngest son needed a snack break, we found the perfect rock to stop and sit.

So far, this hike was pretty easy. Sure, we were slowly gaining elevation, but it was nothing extreme, a far cry from the strenuous hike through Sunday Gulch we tackled earlier in the week. But as Black Elk Peak drew nearer, the trail grew steeper, and we found ourselves on an exposed path once more. By this point, surrounded by rock spires and pinnacles, we knew we were nearing our goal.

The trail was rockier now, winding up the mountainside. Eventually, we came to a junction where a sign pointed left to Black Elk Peak. We were in the final stretch. As we approached the summit, the views stretched out across the Black Hills. Switchbacks led us even higher, then the trail turned and revealed a series of steps leading into the mountain.

That, at least, is how it felt. Built in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservations Corps, the final ascent to the lookout tower atop Black Elk Peak is a winding stone stairway built into the massive granite boulders of the mountaintop. Finally, as we rounded yet another bend, our destination came into view.

It’s an impressive sight. Other hikers milled around the rocks surrounding the tower, taking in the endless views. Befitting the sacred nature of this place for the Lakota, prayer flags were hung from poles and pine trees.

The trail leads directly into the tower, so we did likewise. After a quick climb to the top (worth it for the experience, but the view is better when not obscured by weather-worn windows), we followed the stairs down into the mysterious basement, where a door led outside to unseen wonders beyond.

Truly, this was a wonderland to explore. A narrow path led between the rocks where a steep stairway descended to a small retaining pond tucked into the mountainside. Beyond that lay the hillocks and humps of the giant boulders that form Black Elk Peak. We were on top of the world.

At this point, hikers have the freedom to go off trail, clambering up ravines and across boulders, crossing crevices and cracks. It’s a fascinating place, and perfect for a picnic. At 11am, we weren’t yet ready for lunch, so we broke out the sour candies that were promised to the kids upon reaching the summit. This called for celebration!

After some more exploring, we turned back toward the tower, then down the winding stairway and onto the trail. Upon reaching the junction we turned left, following the arrow pointing toward Little Devil’s Tower.

The trail was rougher now. Most people ascending Black Elk Peak follow the same trail out and back, referred to as Trail No. 9 or simply the “Black Elk Peak Trail”. This is the trail we took from Sylvan Lake. It’s the easiest route to the top, and the trail is well kept and relatively smooth. We were now on Trail No. 4, a rockier, bumpier, more exposed path that passes near Cathedral Spires and the turnoff for Little Devil’s Tower.

Michael was glad we chose this route for our descent, as he felt it would have made for a more strenuous climb going up. I appreciated the fact that it was noticeably less busy than the Black Elk Peak Trail, which, I imagine, was getting more crowded as the day wore on. Although it’s more open to the elements, Trail No. 4 still offers some shade, and the scenery is incredible.

Approximately halfway down the trail, we passed by the Cathedral Spires. A short trail leads to the base of the spires, but we chose to skip it. This was partly due to the fact that the kids were getting tired, and partly because we needed to be back at the car before 2pm, as we had a tour reserved at Jewel Cave National Monument at 3:40. Regardless, the view of the spires from the trail was amazing, and we even spotted a few climbers scaling one.

At this point, there were more hikers on the trail again, as many choose to do a shorter hike just to Cathedral Spires and Little Devil’s Tower. Not far past the turnoff for Cathedral Spires, we came to the turnoff for Little Devil’s Tower. Now this was the one I’d been waiting for; the trail to Little Devil’s Tower is short, but intense and rewarding. While it starts off on an easy trail, it soon morphs into a scramble up narrow, rocky fissures. Follow the blue marks spray painted onto the rocks to find your way.

Michael was game to join me, but the kids wanted a break. Knowing we had a full afternoon still ahead of us, I let them rest at the trail junction. Sometimes you do what’s best to keep the crankiness at bay. Still, as we climbed to the top of Little Devil’s Tower, I couldn’t help feeling that the kids had missed out. This hike was fun! And the views, well, they weren’t bad, either.

Despite the tough climb, or perhaps because of it, Little Devil’s Tower is also a popular hike. If you can use your hands and feet to navigate a few short but satisfying scrambles, you’ll be rewarded by both an awe-inspiring view and a well-deserved sense of accomplishment. We took it all in, reveling in our success, before gingerly making our our way back down through the narrow chutes. Surprisingly, the return trip was easier than we expected.

Of course, 11-year-old J was a bit bummed when we told him about our amazing experience.

“Why didn’t you tell me you got to rock climb?” he pleaded. Next time, J, next time.

Below Little Devil’s Tower, the trail was easy again, with smooth, flat sections interspersed with a few downhill stretches. It was also much more exposed, and we were beginning to feel the heat. When we reached the small parking lot near the Needles Highway, a common starting point for the Little Devil’s Tower hike, Michael declared it was time for lunch. We found a log to sit on not far from the trail and enjoyed a much needed break.

It was the home stretch. Refueled and recharged from lunch, the boys scampered downhill toward Sylvan Lake. Michael took it at a slower pace. After all, lunch can’t do much to remedy sore, tired feet.

“But wasn’t it worth the sore feet?” I asked. Yes, he agreed, it was. Together, we had summited the highest peak east of the Rocky Mountains, and yes, it was epic.