Biking the Trails at Fort Flagler Historical State Park

Looking for more to explore near Fort Flagler State Park?
Stay overnight in one of two beautiful campgrounds, relax on the beach, and take a paddle trip to Mystery Bay.

DIFFICULTY

Easy/Moderate — The trails at Fort Flagler Historical State Park are fairly wide, and elevation gain is minimal. With that said, there are a few short hills and the terrain can be bumpy. The trail alternates between dirt, grass, and gravel. You can also bike along the paved roads within the park.

CURRENT INFO

More information about Fort Flagler Historical State Park is available on the Washington State Parks website. They also have a great trail map. More maps and details are available on AllTrails and in the book Day Hiking Olympic Peninsula by Craig Romano.

GOOD TO KNOW

• To park at Fort Flagler, be sure to bring your Washington State Parks Discover Pass. If you don’t have an annual pass, you can buy one online, at the park entrance station, or from one of the automated machines in the day use areas (but be warned, these machines are not always functional). Day passes are available for $10, and annual passes will soon increase from $30 to $45. Check the Discover Pass website for a list of free days to visit.
• Restrooms are located at the day use area near the beach, at Battery Bankhead, and near the parade grounds.
• Pets on leash are allowed at Fort Flagler Historical State Park.
• All trails at Fort Flagler are open to hikers as well as bikers. If you don’t have a bike, head out for an easy, beautiful hike.
• The Wilderness and Bankhead trails along Campground Road are hiker only — do not bike! Unfortunately, this isn’t very well signed in the park. Bicyclists should bike on the road instead. For more details, take a look at this map.
• Bring sunscreen, shade hats, and sunglasses. While some parts of the trail are shady, others are out in the open.
• Bring water and snacks.
• For a post-ride treat, head to the Beachcomber Cafe. This seasonal cafe offers a small menu of burgers and sandwiches as well as delicious soft serve ice cream. Firewood is sold here, along with a small selection of camping and beach gear.
• Always follow Leave No Trace principles.

HIGHLIGHTS

The views across the Salish Sea from the bluff at Fort Flagler are breathtaking on a clear day, and what better way to see them than by bike? The dirt trails give the ride a sense of adventure, while still being accessible for those more accustomed to paved roads. With hidden bunkers and a historic military town to explore, allow ample time to make the most of your visit.

THE KIDS’ TAKE

Biking at Fort Flagler Historical State Park is a great option for kids looking for something a little more adventurous than a ride around the neighborhood. It was a little challenging for my younger son at times, but he managed just fine. For my older son, the rougher sections along the trail were definitely a feature, not a bug.

Of course, the big draw is the former gun batteries. My kids can spend hours exploring and playing games in Fort Flagler’s concrete jungle. We encountered a scout troop playing a joyous game of capture the flag at one point. Be sure to bring flashlights if you want to explore the depths of the biggest bunkers. Because there can be hazards in these old, unmaintained structures, younger children should be supervised.

In addition to the batteries and bunkers, be sure to plan some time for the beach. Piles of driftwood will appeal to fort-builders of all ages, and little ones will enjoy digging in the sand. The grassy expanse near the beach includes a small playground, and is a great place for kite flying, tossing a Frisbee, or kicking a soccer ball. Last, but certainly not least, the Beachcomber Cafe offers soft serve ice cream in summer, so you can reward the kiddos with a sweet treat after their ride.

WHILE YOU’RE HERE

We did our bike explorations at Fort Flagler while camping at the park. It’s a great place to camp, with two campgrounds to choose from: the upper loop in the woods, or the lower loop by the beach. The beach is a big draw, and features a boat launch for easy access to the water. I especially enjoyed kayaking in Kilisut Harbor, the narrow inlet between Marrowstone and Indian Islands.

Fort Flagler Historical State Park also offers a wealth of history to explore, from the former military gun batteries to the small museum near the parade grounds. Free guided tours are offered several times a week during the peak summer season, and we enjoyed both the gun emplacement tour and the historical hospital tour. Check the Washington State Parks event calendar for these and other events.

For food and fun, head to Finnriver Farm & Cidery in nearby Chimacum. With a tasty variety of fruit ciders (and some good nonalcoholic options), local food, ice cream, a play yard for the kids, and live music on weekends, it’s the place to relax and unwind on a summer evening. From Finnriver, it’s not much further to Port Townsend, known for its charming Victorian architecture, a good food scene, and Fort Worden Historical State Park.

Last but not least, Olympic National Park is only a stone’s throw from Fort Flagler Historical State Park. OK, maybe I’m exaggerating, but it’s certainly possible to add on a few prime sights in the national park if you are spending a few days at Fort Flagler. For inspiration, check out my hiking guide for the Olympic Peninsula or take a tour around stunning Lake Crescent.

It was our first full day at Fort Flagler Historical State Park, and we had one main item on the agenda: hit the bike trails! From our campsite at the Upper Campground, it was an easy ride down to the road, followed by a sudden steep foray into the woods to reach the Bluff Trail. Fortunately, the trail quickly leveled out. After the initial burst of adrenaline, we found ourselves biking along a grassy dirt trail. Sure, it was a bit bumpy at times, but nothing our hybrid bikes couldn’t easily handle. Of course, my older son with his mountain bike thrives on bumps.

Before long we reached the James Calwell Battery. After stashing the bikes alongside the trail, it was time to explore. This battery is smaller than the ones further down the trail, but still offers plenty of hidden nooks and crannies. Plus, the view from up top is amazing.

Back on our bikes, we left the bunker and followed the gravel trail uphill. Just as the trail leveled out, the trees parted and we found ourselves on the open bluff.

The main trail is easy to follow here, but be sure to take some time to wander out to the edge of the bluff, where the views really open up. Across Port Townsend Bay, the Victorian seaport of Port Townsend perches at the water’s edge. Further north, Mount Baker stood proudly overlooking Admiralty Inlet. Truly, we could not have asked for better weather.

Further along the Bluff Trail we came to Fort Flagler’s largest collection of gun batteries. Naturally, we had some exploring to do. This is where a flashlight comes in handy, as the interior of the bunkers is quite dark. We discovered hidden passageways, tiny stalagmites forming on the floor, and a very old toilet. Thankfully, it was no longer in use. To delve into the history behind Fort Flagler and the gun batteries, we highly recommend the free gun emplacement tour, which is held several times a week during the summer season.

Our ride along the Bluff Trail was nearly over, but first we took a short detour to Battery Graham. From here, we connected with the main road that leads past the parade grounds and the former living quarters from Fort Flagler’s time as a military base. A few of the houses are now vacation rentals, and one is home to a small but worthwhile museum.

At this point, I figured we could find a trail to connect back to the campground. I’ll spare you the boring details, but after biking aimlessly around the western periphery of the townsite and mistakenly taking a detour past the Wagon Wheel Group Campground, I came to the conclusion that we should have just followed the road. If your goal is to do a loop ride (or get back to the campground faster), then Campground Road is the way to go. While there is trail that closely follows the road, it’s for hikers only.

By the time we returned to our campsite, we found our friends had arrived. We joined together for lunch, and then… it was time for more biking! That’s right, we were soon back on the Bluff Trail. This time, we had a better idea of where we were going, and we made it to the Fort Flagler Museum in plenty of time for the gun emplacement tour. And while I may have been a bit saddle sore that evening, it was definitely worth it.